Who remembers their 2.8i Capris?

Anything's possible of course and he's now added it (valve seat recession) to the list of possible's after reading the replies folk kindly posted here.

And an update to that. Whilst he's only done ~800 miles on unleaded he has also use a lead substitute (FWTIW etc).

Cheers, T i m

I've had to change every set of clocks on every Capri I've ever owned...

I suggest that he checks the earth point for the dash and interior stuff. It's located on the drivers side on the inside of the A post just behind the trim. If he pulls off the door seal and prises the trim back a bit, he'll see a big screw about 6" up from the floor with a few brown wires going into it. To get at it fully to clean it, remove the bottom of the dash on that side and pull the trim out.

Tim...

Get him to join my forum...

There's a wealth of info there, plenty of people to ask and more than a few willing to pop around with a set of tools and give a hand.

BTW, Conor - saw an immaculate yellow w/ vinyl roof v6 MkII Ghia auto on the M25 yesterday - reg CAP 3L...

Nice...

Wonder how much the plate cost.

Conor gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying:

For a Crapi, it was. Very "Of it's time", that's for sure.

Nowhere near as nice as the Bristol 400, though. Or even the eye- searingly yellow Moke. There was a few other bits of decent old tin on the road, too.

It's nice when Drive-it Day coincides with decent weather.

There's a current trend of putting them back to standard looks going on at the moment. Lots of them are getting various things removed. Some of them are definitely for the best, others less so.

Indeed. I was fully intent on going for a blast out this weekend until I woke up on Saturday virtually unable to move which continued through Sunday. Today I'm a bit more mobile but now it's bloody raining.

More than anything, it's useful to have someone who can quickly say if it's right or not - as others have said, there are mechanical maladies that could cause the same issues.

If you have the right manuals you should be well away. On the Golfs timing is set up with the idle set to 1000rpm and the ISV disconnected. CO is set using a 3mm allen key down a hole on the rim of the metering head. 2% CO is considered about right for a MK2. Setting up K-jet fully (system pressure and WUR pressure) on the MK2 needs a fuel pressure guage and drilling out of a tamper proof bung, but is still fairly DIYable, and shouldn't really need doing unless he wants extra performance or someone has meddled with it already.

A compression test should easily show valve problems.

Ah, that reminds me, my strobe and compression tester to drop round to him. ;-)

(He has all these tools himself but they are stuck round his 'ex's' and some distance away).

T i m

Understood. One thing's for sure, he knows it's not right (especially as he has two others such vehicles beside him). ;-)

I know he's mentioned the HBOL but I'm not sure if he has any others. I believe he substituted the list of components given previously based on the fault finding guide in the HBOL.

(I think he pointed that out yesterday and hasn't touched it yet).

Ok, well we can check for that now I have access to a Co meter.

Well he hasn't done the latter but I'm not sure he could swear that it had never been done.

Cheers, T i m

Every little helps so thanks. ;-)

Ok. I'll mention that to him.

That's interesting also.

And probably covered in said book?

Agreed (on the carb thing),

I'm used to having one carb (all my real cars [1] and the Honda CB250, XT350, Enfield 350, Yamaha Majesty scooter, MZ etc etc), and I can even cope with twin carbs like on my old BMW R100RT but the GPZ550 has four carbs and a service kit costing more than I paid for the Rover and Sierra combined!

Her Astra and my Rover diesel are injection, fine while it's all working ...

Cheers, T i m

I think he is on *a* Capri forum Conor but I'm not sure which. I'll definitely point him towards yours though. ;-)

T i m

Although feeler guages are cheap enough he can probably just buy a set :-)

Ah, a common problem then. ;-(

Nice, thanks, I'll pas that on.

T i m

The amount of blowby which will stop it running at idle won't show up very easily on a compression test (been there and done it) The right way to check is to pressurise the cylinder and listen for where the air falls out, it is a lovely and almost unequivocal test (the only confusion can arise if there is a leak between cylinders (not unknown on V6s)

So by 'pressurise' do you mean with some external source like a compressor etc? How would you apply said pressure, Modified spark plug or some such?

Cheers, T i m

Erm, indeed. ;-)

And an true 'bloke' style he doesn't need much of an excuse to buy tools. However, he still has a fair few round his Ex's place and it would be silly to duplicate the more expensive but rarely used tools.

T i m

It's often a good idea to get some distance between you and the ex.