I just bought a 1990 Miata and we are having problems with the ignition key not wanting to turn over, the key acts like it's not the right key, if you jiggle the key long enough, it will eventually turn over...does anyone have any suggestion on how to loosen up the ignition switch... thanks for any help... Trent
Don't give up that easy! I've had success with several car ignition switches by spraying lubricants into the keyhole. White lithium spray grease might work nice but could be a bit messy in your pocket. WD-40 or a silicone spray lube will usually work although you may have to redo it a couple of time a year. Give it a shot, changing the ignition never sounds like a good idea to me unless all else fails!
Replacing the ignition switch was a relatively easy job. You're not changing the part where the key goes in, you're just changing the rest of it. IIRC it only took me about 45 minutes, from start to clean-up.
I have always known the ignition switch as the assembly that surrounds the steering column, attaches with self-shearing bolts, has a lock and takes the ignition key.
Never, never squirt WD-40 into a lock. "WD" stands for "water displacement." It is not a lubricant, and will turn gummy and attract dirt. Use Dri-Slide or Lock-Eze, graphite suspended in a volatile penetrating solvent.
There is a part of the ignition switch with contacts on it that can be replaced separately from the part that takes the key. I'm not at home and cannot look at my manuals right now but I'll be happy to check on same and get back to you later today. I know that I have some .pdf diagrams on my home computer that should show what I'm talking about here.
Thanks, there is always something else to learn about on these things....I will have to remember that. I thought that there was only one part to replace.
Do you happen to know if the parts with the contacts get replaced when chaging out the whole unit? (I guess I will see in the diagram) I am wondering if I have replaced an entire ignition assembly when only this one part was needed.
Well, of course when I got home and checked the computer, I could NOT find those freaking diagrams. I found wiring diagrams but not the parts diagrams. They must be on the old computer which went to the great recycling place in the sky - or wherever it is that old 'puters go.
Anyway, I got the part from Trussville Mazda, part number D00166151, for $91.81 including shipping back in August 2003. It replaced only the contacts part, not the key part. According to the Enthusiast's Manual, you take apart the steering housing, unplug the wiring connector on the back of the switch and then take out the retaining screw to remove the switch. I wasn't anywhere near replacing the part where the key goes. They're apparently two separate units.
Wait a sec - I just found the diagrams. Of course they're in .pdf format and I can't just send you one page! If you want the whole 141 pages of that section, let me know and I'll send it to you. Be aware that it's for
yes, i think graphic is the appropriate lubricant. the problem with oils (wd-40 and the like) is more than just the mess but that they attract dirt that become impregnated in them and act as abrasives that end up wearing out the lock. graphic does not do this.
Thanks, it sounds like it was the starter each of the two times I have replaced one. Are the symptoms the same? I am wondering how you knew it was the one switch and not the assembly itself.
Mine is a 1991, at least the starter is still from then as far as I know....
If, (and when), I have starter problems, I might hit you up for that section, but I would want to return the favor. I'll tell you what, if you end up sending me the information, I will let you borrow Leon's 2006 for a month. :-)
I did some research in the garage section of miata.net and asked questions on our club's website. The symptoms indicated it was the switch - particularly the "jiggle the key and things work again" part.
Check your e-mail - I was able to scan in the one page and sent it off to you.
Here is a quote off of the Mercedes newsgroup on the same topic:
"I am a locksmith and have seen many locks apart and on the bench.
A couple of observations. First WD40 is mostly solvent and does not turn to a hard gum.
Graphite works great as a lock lubricant, but if you apply it to a lock that has grease inside, you get carbon impacted grease that can be a mechanical problem as it takes up space that the tumblers need to wiggle and slide.
The big advantage to WD40 is that it is cheap and everyone seems to have a can or two around the house. If the lock is gummy, flushing with WD40 until the outflow runs clear will not hurt anything. Once the solvent evaporates then a puff or two of powdered graphite is great.
The real gummy stuff are products like 3 in One oil they will suck up dust and then dry to a sticky goo."
Ahhh, research, I see.... For what it is worth, that switch is connected to the ignition lock assembly and comes free with it, I just didn't know that it was a separate part that could be removed from the entire lock assembly as well.
I also don't know if the entire assembly comes with a new switch like the one you replaced because both of mine were from donor cars. In any case, what that means for me is that it may have been this switch alone in both cases.
Thank you much, I will be checking this first next time, and there will be a next time.
His driveway, of course, quickly when he isn't looking. I already managed to dupe his key and I can send you a mapquest link. ;-)
MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.