MGB Clutch Pedal Problem

Jan 06, 2007 2 Replies

I recently tried to get my 67 B running after letting it sit for nearly a year.



The clutch pedal went down to the floor with no resistance. I noticed the pedal return spring was gone so I replaced that. No difference, the pedal goes down and stays down, though I can pull it up manually with some effort.



I can change gears while the car is off, but trying to move out of neutral while running grinds the gears. So I checked the fluid: way down so filled that up. No difference at all, pedal stays down, still can't shift.



Next I suppose I will have to jack it up and bleed the system but anything else I should be looking at? The clutch was working fine before I put it away.



Question one, Any fluid around or dripping from the slave cylinder? If dry, then it might be an expensive job, if damp then probably a DIY situation. After 12 months it is always possible that the rubbers have given out and got ripped to shreds the minute you applied pressure. For coppers you can replace the rubbers, or for shillings you can buy a refurbised cylinder.

The clutch hydraulics are the more difficult system to bleed free of air, in fact some owners fill the reservoir by pumping fluid through the slave cylinder bleed nipple to minimise entrappment of air.

When I last replaced my Clutch Slave cylinder just before a longish trip, some 150 miles from home a horrific clutch pedal squeal developed. It seemed that the leaking fluid has always previously kept the slave push rod linkage well lubricated, and for 130 miles rain splash had the same effect, only when the sun came out did it get noisy. I made sure the clutch had collapsed! After much crawling around, a well aimed squirt of WD 40 solved the problem in a flash. Experts will tell you though that you should avoid getting such lubricants anywhere near rubber gaiters.

If you still have a problem, only then would I suggest you look at the clutch assembly, that would almost certainly be an engine out job.

very best of luck P '67B '98 F

Check underneath the carpets on the drivers' side. If they're wet, that's where your hyd. fluid went.

You may be lucky and get away with replacing the rubbers in a master cylinder, but before you do it pays to examine the inside of the bore very carefully. If there is any pitting visible there, you might as well chuck it.

Water gets into the fluid, collects in the bore of the cylinder and pits it. Once that happens it will always leak and will soon shred new rubbers.

It's particularly common with cars left sitting over the winter, and is the reason a lot of owners use silicone fluid in their brakes etc.

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