Audi failed the MOT :-(

Well, it's the first car I've ever had that I genuinely thought a quick check of all the obvious things (lights, washers, tyres etc.) before driving it down, fixing whatever needed fixing (one brake light bulb and the washer fluid topping up) would be all that was needed to pass. Turned out I was wrong :-(

Doesn't need much doing, and stuff I should be able to tackle myself if I decide I can be bothered:

Front nearside and offside compliance bushes worn too excess, Offside front outer CV boot split too excess, Front brake disc's worn too excess.

(All as written on the failure sheet - obviously spelling and grammar don't come into an MOT tester's training).

Looking through the Haynes manual I'm actually very impressed with the way Audi design their cars - take the driveshafts for example - on my old Astra for example (and someone correct me if I'm remembering this wrong), to remove a driveshaft you had to loosen various balljoints (including the bottom balljoint IIRC) to remove the driveshaft as the splined bit that went into the hub was relatively long and the suspension strut needed that freedom of movement so the CV joint could get out. On the Audi there's a hub bolt instead of a hub nut, and from the pictures it looks like the splined length (going into the hub) is quite a bit shorter, making it a whole lot easier to get the outer CV joint out of the hub. Removing the driveshaft at the gearbox end is much easier than other cars I've worked on aswell - in my old Mk3 Escorts, or my Astra, it'd be a case of getting a big lever behind the end and yanking it or whacking it with a hammer - on this there's just a flange connection with a few bolts needing undoing. Nice and easy.

Compliance bushes don't look too hard to do - my only worry is that they won't drop out as easily as they do in the picture, and that there's going to be little bits remaining that'll want burning out with a blowtorch (like in an old Escort I had once, where it was easier to just take another anti-roll bar complete and put that on!) but I'll find out.

Never done a CV boot before, but on carefully reading through the appropriate section in the Haynes manual it really doesn't look all that hard to do, and I knew the brake pads were needing replacement sometime soon-ish, so the fact that the discs do as well (which may be debatable) isn't a massive shock.

Hopefully I'll get it all done in a day. Expect the usual tale of things going wrong some time later on in the week :-)

Peter

Reply to
AstraVanMan
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Its not very hard to change a CV Boot. Just get the kit from your motor factors all it is is basically a new rubber boot and a few metal cable ties, U also need to fill it with grease.

I did it on an AX at college so that shows you how easy it is!

Hope This helps Richard

Reply to
Richard Jones

The thing I don't completely get is how much grease is required. Shouldn't be a problem as the kit you get from Audi contains the right amount, but the Haynes manual says that you need to pack it in around where the driveshaft moves inside the CV joint, which makes sense. It then says if there's any excess grease put it inside the CV boot, but where exactly inside the boot? Just in there for good measure? Or is there usually enough so as to completely fill the boot and the joint?

I'm going with the common sense assumption that to have the bit where the splined end of the driveshaft meets with the joint and moves around inside it is by far the most important bit to have lubricated.

Peter

Reply to
AstraVanMan

In article , snipped-for-privacy@WithThanks.com spouted forth into uk.rec.cars.modifications...

Missus's 4 year old 36000 mile Skoda fabia failed this week too.

Brake discs heavily corroded on the inside. Brake pads gone (no biggy) One split CV gator (leaking grease).

2 tyres worn down to the edge of the limit so they advised changing. She had it done.

Came in at 370 with VAT and labour.

Reply to
MeatballTurbo

"MeatballTurbo" wrote

You pay VAT at a garage?

Reply to
<fishman nineteen at bifgoot dot com>

In article , spouted forth into uk.rec.cars.modifications...

AA service centre. I get them to do routine stuff like MOT, and tyres, because I get Member discount, they aren't "Dodgy" like a lot of the MOT places round here. Specialist stuff on the Saab, I drive about 50 miles round trip, to local specialist because I get Owners club member discount.

Reply to
MeatballTurbo

Unless it's a very small garage, or you're VAT registered yourself, then yep. Same as you do nearly everywhere, on nearly everything.

Reply to
Stuffed

Too much grease will ooze out of the boot. Or maybe cause too much pressure and pop the boot?

Either way, too little is very bad, just enough is OK, too much is just about right, IMO, just pack the metal bits with it liberally, add a little extra to the inside of the boot, and you should be fine :)

Reply to
Stuffed

In 4 years I havent had a failure yet, even with me xenon's, but I do use the same garage, and keep on top of my discs etc, what I would say peter is go to German and swedish and get some zimmerman drilled front discs, and Pagid fast road pads, best upgrade you will do, and there cheap 100 quid all in about.

Stopping is amazing after, the standard Audi jobs are not good.

Ron

Reply to
Ronny

heard the same thing for Saabs if you can't get Brembos for your particular models.

Reply to
MeatballTurbo

Yeah, I'm a little bit gutted it failed, but I knew front discs and pads would be needing replacement soon, just didn't think it'd be an MOT fail. As for thecompliance bushes, well they're the original ones, so if I only need to replace them every 120k then that's not too much hardship. Should have checked the CV boots though.

what I would say peter is

I've never had a problem with the standard Audi brakes, but may try these out - what are these like for longevity?

Peter

Reply to
AstraVanMan

try 50k miles on 1 set of pads and they still look like new :) i got em all round

Reply to
Ronny

Sounds good. May well give them a go. Is it GSF car parts you get them from?

Peter

Reply to
AstraVanMan

Of course !

Reply to
Nom

Really ?

I've never passed straight through ! Always needed some little thing like bulb or wiper blades, or handbrake cable, or rear discs, or whatever.

Reply to
Nom

And funnily enough, when were done. we get a reciept and normally some kind of warrenty too. :)

Reply to
MeatballTurbo

Not one failure, last advisory I had was tyres will need changing soon, which I did.

Every car ive owned previous has needed somthing done, even company cars, when ive had em 3 yrs, somtimes loads of work.

so far in repairs I have spent 1800 quid in 4 years, which I dont think is that bad for wear and tear

Reply to
Ronny

Yeah - good, innit!

Mind you, I'd be bitterly disappointed if mine showed any signs of rust before 24 years old, let alone 12!

Peter

Reply to
AstraVanMan

No, the situation with your car is that it's French, and far far too low in the social spectrum for rust to associate with :-)

Peter

Reply to
AstraVanMan

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