got a Sony CDMP30 head unit and thinking of adding a small 8"-10" sub, is this pretty easy to do myself? and how would i do it as i don't think the unit has a sub input?
was gonna post in an audio group but meh what will they know :)
In article , snipped-for-privacy@none.com spouted forth into uk.rec.cars.modifications...
pretty easy to do
OK, you will need a small amp. A sub that matches the AMP, somewhere to put it all (maybe a little harder in small car, but the Amp can go under one seat, and the sub box behind the other shaped to fit).
You can get line level converters that turn high speaker output to low level sub output.
That way, use your front speaker output to operate the speakers in the car, and your rears to run from the AMP.
I'm assuming a four channel output head unit of course.
is this pretty easy to do
Easier way is to buy a amp with a low pass filter built in, almost all have em, I got one for 25 quid of ebay
Ron
In news:40b0fecc$0$17781$ snipped-for-privacy@news.dial.pipex.com, Vamp decided to enlighten our sheltered souls with a rant as follows
You'll probably find a Sub output would be more useful :-P
You'll need an amplifier, some reasonably heavy duty cabling for the power, a pair of RCA leads, some speaker wire, and a Sub.
Take the remote connection from the head unit (normally blue or blue and white), to the remote connection on the Amp, a big heavy live (fused) from the battery to the live on the amp, and a big hefty earth. Connect RCA leads to low level output on the head unit (if it's not got low level output, some of the cheesier amps can take a high level one direct off the speakers, but I suspect the CD player if it's MP3 will have low level outputs), set the level on the amp to about half way, and connect output wires from the amp to the sub. (If you buy a 2 channel amp, then it'll show you how to 'bridge' the connections to the bass is mono (which is a good thing in terms of volume)
Heh
HTH
cheers, looks like i'll need some help with this then as i don't trust myself with all that kinda wiring stuff. least i know what maybe needed thanks...
this pretty easy to do
can be done as it's been done in a few MK1's so i'll ask a few from imoc i think
you assum right :)
It really really is a piece of piss
-- Chet
I think in a car with the interior space of your MR2 the subject line should be
bit OTT adding a sub?
Some decent 6 by 9s should be fine!!
"Chet" wrote
Would that piss have to be frozen then? I've never encountered a "piece" of liquid before :)
Don't make me go thru irish logic with you :P
-- Chet
Don't do that !
The end result will sound like some sort of rhino-farting-contest.
Eh ?
Just follow his instructions - you only need to connect three wires !
Amp takes power (from your battery), earth (to the chassis), and remote (from your headunit) - that's it.
Once done, you just need a phono cable from headunit to amp (to take the sound there) and some speaker wire from amp to sub (to take the sound there).
Done properly, there's absolutely nothing wrong with using a 'level converter'. If the head unit is a bit crap then it can sound crap if you are using the output to drive e.g. the rear speakers - in that case you need to use a resistive load. That said, almost any modern headunit will be fine.
a pair of nines cannot compete with even the smallest of subs.
dumbed down like that! is that it, sounded far more complicated, think i'll try it then :)
Except that it will sound PANTS.
:)
As all stock headunits are...
Apart from the one that came in your car !
Yes, you might get away with it if you've got a decent head unit. But if you try to amplify the already-amped (complete with noise) sound from a factory-fit shit-box, it sounds awful !
It's very easy ! Just remember to disconnect the battery before you start work, and double check EVERYTHING before you fire it up.
You should also stick a fuse in the battery-cable, within a few inches of the battery terminal. Halfords will sell you an in-line fuse holder for about £2 if you're stuck. If you don't do that, and something shorts out, you can expect a nice fire :)
I thought the same, until I got a sub. They don't even begin to compare :)
Not in Volvos, or Audis, or Lexus for that matter. In face, many current head units (event he vauxhall ones) are quite good - speakers may vary though...
Only if it's not done properly :)
Not so. The critical factor in this case is that the damping factor of the output stage of the head unit is large. Since almost all output stages nowadays are MOSFET based, that is almost always the case, so the fact that you are driving an reactive load doesn't cause distortion of the drive voltage and so level converters can work fine.
You will have some extra noise, true, but it will amount to less than 1% THD, unless you are driving your head unit flat out, which means that in an environment like a car (especially a small one like an MR2) you won't _notice_ any difference. Also my understanding was that vamp was using this signal to drive a SUB, in which case noise is essentially irrelevant - anything above 60Hz will be filtered.
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