Well, since the trailing arm poly bushes, and the shocks, and the diff=20 mount kit, and the anti-roll bar and bushes, it still clunks on shifts,=20 has started creaking and squeaking, and on the opposite side to the=20 creak and squeak, there is some top and bottom movement on the back=20 wheel, but no side to side. MOT man didn't fail it, my mechanic doesn't=20 think wheel bearing, but doesn't know what, he mate reckons wheel=20 bearing, but doesn't get why there is no side to side, I reckon at best=20 driveshaft, at worse, the start of wear and tear in the diff, and that=20 is what is clunking. A new diff is something like =A31600. Near what I=20 paid for the car. Even a supposed good secondhand driveshaft from=20 Fensport is =A360. Plus, the last clutch went at 80k, it has now done=20
146k, so the clutch might now have long left, and that is =A34-600 parts=20 and labour from MrClutch (reckoned by the club to be cheapest and pretty=20 much best amongst the non-toyota or specialists).The next 15-20k could get to be very expensive. While the shell is rock=20 solid with a few scrapes, but absolutley no rust, the mechanicals are=20 wearing. Mechanicals are al fixable, tunable or upgradeable, but it is=20 getting to be that it will cost 2-3 times what I paid for the car, and=20 twice what it is worth, to fix it, especially when MOT wise, there is=20 nothing wrong, not even an advisory. I guess I'm just too fussy, and I=20 should find something nice boring, simple, reliable and newish that=20 doesn't even need an oil change between services, and just use it for=20 the daily work commute, and leave the interesting cars to the bosses and=20 their Centurian cards.
--=20 Carl Robson Car PC Build starts again.