Looking at a C900 in the morning...

Apparently got rusty front wings. Is this indicative of horrendous corrosion elsewhere, or normal?

Reply to
Doki
Loading thread data ...

Will probably just be cosmetic, the arches tend to rust due to the arch trims, door bottoms may be rusty too. The rest of the car is normally OK.

However, you may do better, even living in the North East I can find cheap rust free saabs.

How much?

Reply to
chris

£295, so it's probably a complete shitbox. But you never know.
Reply to
Doki

I've had 4 now, they've all had rust to some extent on the wheelarches and door bottoms. Not usually a problem with rust elsewhere though.

£295 - for which model? Could be expensive, could be cheap depending on what year/model it is?

Cheers Mike

Reply to
Mike P

In article , snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com spouted forth into uk.rec.cars.modifications...

My T16 which was shabby but solid had one or two bubbles on one rear arch, and a 1inch patch infront of the arch on the front drivers wing.

Worst place they go is on the bonnet sides right above the wing, or below the rubbing strip (or aero kit if fitted). They are weld on wings too, so can be a pig if they are too far gone to be properly patched.

Reply to
Sleeker GT Phwoar

I know a good welder if it needs doing. Are the seams horribly difficult to get at or anything?

Reply to
Doki

I've read there's 80-odd spot welds needs to be drilled out to remove each wing. I got offered a free mint s/h wing providing I removed it myself. Says it all really :-(

I'd say if it's that bad it can't be patched, walk away!

Mike

Reply to
Mike P

Ahh right. I hoped it would be rather more simple than that. And that it's better to bung in a new panel than patch up and old one.

Reply to
Doki

In article , snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com spouted forth into uk.rec.cars.modifications...

A proper butt welded, ground back and skimmed patch will look like original metal.

What you don't want is a quick bodge on lap welded plate like gets slapped on Sills for MOT time.

Reply to
Sleeker GT Phwoar

Funnily enough, I've never seen rusty sills on a C900. Arches, bootlids, bonnets, door bottom yes, but never sills..

You can buy ready made repair sections for the arches if they are that bad, or your welder should be able to cut out the rust and weld new metal in.

Mike

Reply to
Mike P

In article , snipped-for-privacy@privacy.net spouted forth into uk.rec.cars.modifications...

Best thing about them is, that arround the doors, the sills are overlapped underneath by the doors. Means that the rear of the sills can rot out, but rarely do, I think the extra mudflaps underneath help with that too. Oh yeah, and the extra thick high quality swedish steel.

Reply to
Sleeker GT Phwoar

Been and looked at the car. Twas a shed. Needed new wings really, oil leaking down the side of the block from the head, all fluids looked like they'd been there since the car was made, needed two new doors and the sills looked sketchy too. And the turbo didn't seem to be making full boost - only getting to the middle of the orange section on the gauge, and it needed a new exhaust, and it was popping on the overrun, and the headlining needed replacing, and I'm sure I could carry on all day.

Reply to
Doki

Er, that's why it was £300 !

Didn't you buy it ?

It doesn't matter about rust etc. - it's only gotta last you till the next MOT.

Reply to
Nom

What year was it? Did it have leather/air con/e-windows? What was the mileage, did the box have lots of slack or pop out of gear?

That isn't a good sign, but new metal can be welded in easy and resprayed.

If it was from the back of the rocker cover, it is quite normal when the rocker gasket goes.

Slightly worrying. But the turbo oil goes black in about 300 miles.

If by sills you mean the bottom of the outer panels, that isn't the sills. Sills are actually nearly under the car. Rare for them to actually rot. Almost all C900's will have rot inside the door bottoms, and some outside, especially if it has an aero kit on.

Exhausts aren't that dear if you get the car cheap enough.

formatting link
Not stainless but good pipes for the money. Middle of the orange is a little low (What Saab guys refer to as bas boost). Should be about 2/3->3/4 orange for normal. Good thing about that is, it is normally a vacu pipe problem and a few quid of pipes will sort that.

Malbrad in huddersfield are very good with 900's

formatting link
and they have lockup upon lockup of engine/chassis/body panels for 900's available. Ring, don't email, they rarely answer email. If you can replace any really knackered panels, cheap. Do it, and then get it all sprayed together if you really like the car.

Reply to
Sleeker GT Phwoar

Remember, mine was £325, nowhere near as sheddy as that, and in a year and a half of owning, including buying, I only spent £1700 including new tyres, brake overhaul, new shocks (because they were original, and whether passing MOT or not they should have been knackered), ball joints, and front wheel bearings.

Reply to
Sleeker GT Phwoar

FWIW, the turbo problem on the one you went to see sounds like an APC problem, duff wiring or something - it's only making base boost. Usually not hard to fix. Was it an 8V or 16V?

Shame. Sounds expensive too - mine

formatting link
was £69 but hadno MOT or tax. Needed a brake caliper and a tyre for it's MOT.. got 9 monthsMOT left, might sell if you are interested - £225 or thereabouts covers whatI've spent on it and the tax.. it's a bit sheddy, but the headlining is OKand the rust you see on the pics has been dealt with.. last owner put arecon 'box and turbo in a couple of years ago, it's got 3 almost new tyres..missus is nagging me like f*ck to get rid of it though :-( Mike

Reply to
Mike P

Can buy repair sections ready made

Mine leaks a little from exactly this place.

I had this problem, it was a duff connection on the knock sensor on the block. Bit of contact cleaner and wiggling it on and off a few times sorted it.. it could also be a vac hose problem, but again, easy to sort.

There's another couple of indy s/h spares dealers down here I use - very good prices eg distributor £25 including postage, seatbelts a fiver a piece inc postage. Not an expensive car to run if you know where to get bits, loads of enthusiast sites..

They are one of those cars that whatever you buy next, you'll probably want another C900 (am I right Carl?) -O:

Mike

Top advice all the way through from Carl there

Reply to
Mike P

I'd much sooner spend £300 on something that will last a couple of MOTs, or not spend £300 at all and keep tooling around in the Mondeo until I find something better at a decent price. I was looking at it so that I'd have something to compare other 900s with, and because it was bloody cheap. If it wasn't too untidy, I'd have had it.

Reply to
Doki

Bought it then ? ;)

Reply to
Tony Bond (UncleFista)

Amazing value for money.

If I were looking for a s**te old barge at the moment, I'd rip your arm off for that.

Reply to
SteveH

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.