Oh yeah ok I wasn't thinking. My 2nd year thermo course is gradually coming back to me now. IIRC this is one reason why diesels are more efficient around town because they don't have to suck the air in past an almost closed throttle.
I still don't see why the throttle position in a modern engine can't be controlled by accelerator pedal position and rpm though, although I guess it is actually, that's what a rev limiter is :-)
'tis ok, will get it worn in quicker ;-)
In the radio-controlled model engine world there are two different views on running engines in, one is to absolutely blast it at full throttle for several periods of time to get it up to operating temperature as quickly as possible, while the other is to gradually build up the revs. Both seem to work fine, but I've always been too scared to do the full throttle method - even a small engine doing 30k+ rpm scares me.
Are you nearly ready to jump on the ferry with that yet? :)
-- Chet
What you got and whats it running? Mines a Protech Phaser 4 RS 1/8th Buggy,
I think the reasoning was that you need to get the engine up to operating temperatur as soon as possible, because when all the parts are cold they are a slightly different shape and cause a lot more wear.
I broke mine in very gently and am only just leaning it off now, it is stupidly quick, and I appear to need to learn to drive it after a collision with a kerb in a *huge* empty car park!
rev-counter?
Dont worry about it, my 205 used to spend many a happy moment well past the redline. 5800 was the most i got out of it before the pump gave up, and the redline started at 4500 i think.
Ah my mate had one of them, bent the chassis plate once, and after that it kept eating clutch bell housings, so he ebayed it :) Nice machine tho, really kicks when it hits 2nd gear. No match for my beast tho ;) Lookin at getting a few alloy parts custom made....
This is my baby:
The problem lay with the 2 speed box and the clutch bell not lining up quite right, bust the clutch bells. Also, cos it was only 1/10th it was quite fiddly and a bit hard to work on. 1/8th buggys are the way forward ;) Lookin at a .28 engine next i feel.... Something with over 3bhp. But that will have to wait till i can get some better diffs for mine i think!
I haven't bent the chassis yet fortunately. It's taken two good blows to kerbs and first time sheared off a half-shaft, and this time the main drive shaft broke. I used to have a mardave marauder many years ago, i well and truly bent the chassis on that. Almost after every run I would have it in the vice trying to bend it back roughly straight again. As you can imagine the handling was terrible, massive understeer for turning right and massive oversteer for turning left :-)
The clutch is still going ok on mine for the time being. The body shell is rubbish though, it keeps rubbing on the wheels so I have to keep cutting the wheel arches out wider and wider!
You can't. The end.
Modern engines, both petrol and diesel, include rev-limiters precisely so you can't break them. The red-zone is simply the "don't stay here" area - fine in short bursts, but not really a good idea to cruise along bouncing off the limiter for any period of time :)
you can't do it accelerating :) but you can do it on the downshift when slowing down all that will happen is the engine will implode just the same way as a petrol engine will diesels can't rev past their max anyway as they rely on fuel rather than ignition to do the postponing stuff
rev-counter?
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