Turbos and manifolds and acutuators and stuff and stuff and stuff

Many questions :) I'll be brief...

How can you tell what size a garrett turbo is, i see the little plaque thing but it hasn't got anything i recognise. Only has an oil feed, no water and i think i read T28's and up had a coolant feed?

What sort of affect would a leaking downpipe have? Tis leaking really bad at the min about a foot down the exhaust at a join.

Ever since last night its not boosting properly. The boost guage goes from -10 to 0 but no further. Still pulls okish at 0. Possible leak somewhere? Its not as dead as it was the other night when a turbo hose blew off tho. Wastegate still makes a bit of noise when you let off the trottle too.

Maybe just coincidence but the boosting prob happened about the same time as the downpipe leak, its possible it leaking right up where the turbo joins the downpipe but i can't be sure.

How stiff should the actuator be? This ones very stiff and bent which i know can't be good but it never went over the 6psi it is (was) running. I think i have an old T28 somewhere i can nab one off if they're the same.

Car is a 1993 renault 19 2.0 turbo, not many of these about so i doubt anyone has any experience with them LOL

Ta peeps :)

-- Chet

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HF Integrale 16v - Gettin there!1993 Renault 19 16v - Williams 2.0 with a turbo, oh yes!

Reply to
Chet
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That should be the dump/recirc valve, not the wastegate, wastegate is for letting off boost when it gets too high.

Find the wastegate, check see if the rod has gotten detached from the small arm that is part of the wastegate flap. Same thing happened on the Saab after I adjusted the wastegate rod length to get stock boost back.

BTW, some wastegate rods have a bend similar to a ski pole in them, they aren't all straight. Wastegate should be failry stiff, and probably have about 3mm preload (you need to stretch the rod about three mm til hook it up (maybe slightly more).

You sure the diaphram ain't ripped? that would make it flap arround possibly.

BTW, T3's came with both oil only and oil and water cooling.

Reply to
MeatballTurbo

The plaque thing tells you :)

There are all sorts of combinations, in all sorts of sizes.

Assuming it's after the turbo and lambda, then it'll just loose you power, and make your car run lumpy - same as normal blowing exhaust. Sort the exuast out - whether it's causing the turbo issues, isn't relevent.

Yes, or the dump-valve and/or wastgate are stuck/broken.

Wastegate or dumpvalve ?

Er, so why haven't you sorted it ? If it's causing the problem, then it'll fix it too. You're gonna have to fix it anyway, irrespective of whether it's shafting the system or not :)

It's more likely to be a leaking pipe. Take all your blower hoses off, and put them back on again. If you have an intercooler, then check that for leaks too.

Depends on the car !

Turbo system works like this : Air enters airbox, and flows to the turbo. Turbo pressurises it, and rams it into the intercooler. It goes from there, through the throttle plate, into the engine. Turbo is driven by the exhaust. Wastegate of the turbo, is set to a predefined figure - let's say 6psi - if the pressure exceeds this (which it will), then the gate is forced open - this effectively caps your boost at

6psi - it's usually connected with a pipe directly to the throttle body. It's a simple setup - you should hopefully be able to work out what's not working properly.
Reply to
Nom

meat & nom have answered the rest but gimmie the numbers and I'll look up the turbo for ya ;)

Reply to
Glenn

Get on MSN laters chap, we'll work through what it could be.

Matt

Reply to
**-**

if you remove the exhaust side of things you will see a set of numbers stamped onto the output flange the same on the "cold" side of things it's the AR ratio or whatever will be based on these numbers

Reply to
dojj

I mean you can hear a little bit of chatter, dumpvalve hasn't really made alot of noise even when it was boosting

Had the manifold and turbo off last nite so its defo attached. Found a bfo crack in the manifold so assumed thats why it wasn't boosting. Still the same after it was welded up tho.

This one is well and truely bent. It goes out of the actuator housing at an angle and bends every which way after that :)

On the dumpvalve? Never checked. Better not be as its only been on for 3 days at 6 psi

Ah, i may note the numbers then and see what i can find out

-- Chet

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HF Integrale 16v - Gettin there!1992 Renault 19 16v - Williams 2.0 with a turbo, oh yes!

Reply to
Chet

Its after the turbo but before the lamda. I wasn't sure if it could cause lack of boost or not

Chatter :)

It WILL be fixed, i only had a few hours at it last nite and new bloody rules in the workshop says i can't leave a car there so it had to be back together and drivable that nite.

I'm aware of how a turbo works ta ;) More curious as to the little ins and outs that could effect it

-- Chet

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HF Integrale 16v - Gettin there!1992 Renault 19 16v - Williams 2.0 with a turbo, oh yes!

Reply to
Chet

Forget to feckin write them down. Think it begins with T and ends with 7 tho :D

-- Chet

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HF Integrale 16v - Gettin there!1992 Renault 19 16v - Williams 2.0 with a turbo, oh yes!

Reply to
Chet

You just reminded me i seen a .68 on it somewhere :)

-- Chet

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HF Integrale 16v - Gettin there!1992 Renault 19 16v - Williams 2.0 with a turbo, oh yes!

Reply to
Chet

Lack of boost I can't see how. It can cause incorrect mixture however. A blowing exhaust will actually suck some air in because you get both positve and negative pressure, hence you lambda sensor thinks there is unburnt oxygen.....

Paul

Reply to
Paul Laidlaw

Aye i see how that could be true. Can't imagine the misture could get any more incorrect givin the dodgy 5th injector setup on this ;)

-- Chet

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HF Integrale 16v - Gettin there!1992 Renault 19 16v - Williams 2.0 with a turbo, oh yes!

Reply to
Chet

Dodgy 5th injector or not, you;d still get boost, but the engine would misfire or melt if the fuelling was incorrect.

either you have a burnt out wastegate, which although closed is leaking, an actuator which is opening too soon- hook it to the garage air line and see wot psi its opening at, a borked turbo, or more likely a split intercooler which is venting boost away.

Tim..

Reply to
Tim (Remove NOSPAM.

It's gonna knacker the running then. Closed-loop mode will be getting all sorts of lovely lambda readings :)

Not really, unless it's totally bollocking the exhaust's flow !

My point was that it's a fairly simple system. As long as it's not leaking anywhere, then it doesn't really have any "ins and outs" if you see what I mean !

Reply to
Nom

Time to dig out my xrd and see what readings its putting out. Fingers crossed it can still read the ecu thats in it.

Yeah i know what you meant, i suppose i should just look from gapping holes in the intercooler before i start worrying about exhaust pulse frequencies and all that rubbish :)

-- Chet

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HF Integrale 16v - Gettin there!1992 Renault 19 16v - Williams 2.0 with a turbo, oh yes!

Reply to
Chet

right then :) find the other number and osmeone will tell youwhat it is :)

Reply to
dojj

There's no need - you just need to sort the exhaust !

Exactly. Bear in mind that you only need a VERY small hole, for all your boost to escape ! It can quite easily be invisible to the naked eye. The easiest way to test things, is to stick em in a bucket of water, and blow air in with an airline. Then if you have a leak, you get bubbles...

Reply to
Nom

Re-done all the boost hoses and fit a bigger/better placed intercooler last night. Couldn't take the car out tho so will test drive it tonight on the way to the workshop to sort the downpipe. If she boosts its time to get on the blower for some better management, not that you could call the current pressure switch management!

Acutator and dumpvalve are both fine btw

-- Chet

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HF Integrale 16v - Gettin there!1992 Renault 19 16v - Williams 2.0 with a turbo, oh yes!

Reply to
Chet

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