2001 GT Spark Plugs

Close but no cigar. Your picture is of the fule rail.

Yep... the li'l round doofers with the green tops are the Coil On Plug units. A 7mm socket will undo the capscrews holding the COP units to the head..... undo the primary (little wires), twist the assembly back and forth a bit to break the boot loose from the head and it should wigle out with little fuss. Some like to loosen the fuel rail and lift it up but I haven't found it necessary plus we leave the chance for either a fuel or vacuum leaks once we're done.

Clean the area around the COPs before removing them... if you have compressed air, blow the plug wells out before removing the plugs (if not, take a good look to be sure there are no little "surprises" in there). NO antisieze on the threads and torque the plugs to 14 ft/lbs..... the plug inserts in the head have been known to be trouble so strict adherence is important. You're much better off to perform this minor surgery on a cold motor.

HTH

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Just curious, why no antiseize? Will yield incorrect torque value? Or may allow plug to loosen over time at given torque? Also, you say the plug inserts have been known to be trouble... what type of trouble? Do they come loose, or strip, or? Again, just curious. Thanks.

Thanks for the info Jim. Why no anti-sieze? The book says to apply it but I know books and reality can be 2 different things.

Jeff

Jeff and Fred.... The factory service manual does not say to use antisieze - ergo, we don't use antisieze. It doesn't say not to but you can rest assured that if Ford had intended antisieze to be there, it would be evident in the plugs that are being removed and it would be stated in the service manual.

Yes, it can change the way that 11 ft/lbs (sorry for the misinformation - pick-ups are 14 but the Mustang shop manual I have in front of me - 2004 - quotes 11) presents itself to the insert. We have seen many of these inserts pulled out of the head and/or stripped. It usually takes a while for it to manifest itself but we have had no failures on plugs we do correctly in our shop. Additionally, the antisieze compound can change the way that heat transfers from the plug into the cylinder head..... this would have the same affect as installing hotter plugs and could lead to engine ping and eventual engine damage.

HTH.

That's a technical term that some people who are not professional mechanics may not understand... :-D

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Thanks for the good info. I have always used a small bit of antiseize when changing plugs in my vehicles. Never had a problem. But the heat transfer issue that you pointed out is indeed something to consider. I applaud your reasoning: if the manufacturer did not use it, then do not use it.

Having said that, my guess is that Ford does not use antiseize on the plugs mainly because that would simply cost more. They are not worried about getting the plugs out later on... that's the owner's responsibility, so I could understand an owner wanting to use antiseize in order to make future removal "easier".

Any given manual may or may not recommend using antiseize... I've seen some of the "aftermarket" type manuals recommend antiseize on everything, must have just been the editor's personal preference or something. I guess with older cars, cast iron stuff, you can't really go wrong using antiseize. But with newer cars, aluminum stuff, where temperature and fastener torque is more critical, I would totally agree to simply follow the manufacturer's word to the tee.