Console

Have a 1965 Mustang FB 4 spd manual with no console. The a/c will not show (Sure Fit). Would like a console with a decent arm rest/storage unit. Don't want to add a Humphugger type or a saddlebag type over an oem. Has anyone fitted a later model type console that would fill the bill? If so, what kind? Thanks. V'ger

1965 Fastback 2+2 Burgundy w/ Black A Code 4 spd 1966 Fastback 2+2 White w/Red C Code Auto
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V'ger
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My 66 Sunbeam Tiger has a nice console/armrest. It is made from sheet metal and then has vinyl wrapped around it. There is a little foam in the lid to make it soft. Everywhere else the vinyl is contact cemented directly to the metal. Make one yourself, or draw up a picture and see if an sheet metal house can make one for you. All the modern molded textured plastic consoles are trying to simulate vinyl wrapped metal. Which is itself simulating leather wrapped metal. :)

Erich

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Kathy and Erich Coiner

I already have some prelim sketches done. Had not thought of metal as a base. I was thinking fiberglass. I like your idea though. There are some thinbgs I want to build in; like I have a dvd player which will tie into the stereo system for that 5.1 surround sound for the rear passengers (you can run game video through it as well) since mosty all of the drive-ins are history... ; ) plus some lighting though I am considering an overhead console ala Cougar.

Again, thanks.

Dave

V'ger

1965 Fastback 2+2 Burgundy w/ Black A Code 4 spd 1966 Fastback 2+2 White w/Red C Code Auto
Reply to
V'ger

Some Early Falcons and Comets ( sport models) had consoles with a storage bin that will probably fit. They aren't full consoles but just the storage bin between the seats. Here's a '63. I think they even were lockable. They hinged back IIRC. StuK

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Reply to
Stuart&Janet

seats. Here's

V'ger

1965 Fastback 2+2 Burgundy w/ Black A Code 4 spd 1966 Fastback 2+2 White w/Red C Code Auto
Reply to
V'ger

I hope you've considered some serious upgrades to the electrical system. The 60 amp alternator will barely handle the original system's load and the original wiring isn't usually suitable for adding new components reliably.

Since you've got a '65... if its got the generator...be careful with those high tech components!

Reply to
Mustang_66

V'ger

1965 Fastback 2+2 Burgundy w/ Black A Code 4 spd 1966 Fastback 2+2 White w/Red C Code Auto
Reply to
V'ger

Sounds like you have lots of plans. I'd be interested in the '66, or even the GTA if I had a few extra bucks laying around. What are you looking to get out of them should I run into anyone interested, and where are you located?

If you do get your custom console in the '65 and all, try to keep some documentation on how you got over some of the hurdles. 5.1 surround in a '65 with a DVD/game system sounds like quite a challenge.

JS

Reply to
JS

When I added my tuner, amps, Classic Auto Air, electric fan, electric water pump, etc... I decided to add a 140 amp, single wire alternator. I also changed over the wiring with a new harness from Painless Wiring. I've never looked back and the wiring is better than original by a mile. I was also able to do away with the voltage regulator, which was a constant source of headaches, but I left it in place for more of an original look. Good Luck with the '66. I hope you enjoy working on yours as much I have enjoyed mine..

Reply to
Mustang_66

Yeah, I can dig it. '69/'70 'stangs and Cougars would work to but their storage bins are not too big. The only other factory one similar that I can recall would be used on a mid size Ford of the '70's Torino LTDII etc but they are probably rare as hens teeth. Good Luck! StuK

will

Here's

Reply to
Stuart&Janet

Painless is the one I was looking at. May even go ahead and do the 65 as well.

Which auto air did you go with? the oem style? I'm look>When I added my tuner, amps, Classic Auto Air, electric fan, electric water

V'ger

1965 Fastback 2+2 Burgundy w/ Black A Code 4 spd 1966 Fastback 2+2 White w/Red C Code Auto
Reply to
V'ger

I went with the Sure Fit. Everything went together extremely well. The only thing you should watchout for is the drain line coming off the heater/AC box. I found that I needed to drill the hole through the firewall a little lower than directions called for, otherwise the condensation would have backed up into the unit. Besides, that all went well... and I did it without help, although I would strongly recommend another set of hands. The whole thing can be completed in about 2-3 hours with some help. The only complaint I have is that the center vents point too low... because of the curvature of the bottom of the dash. I haven't worked on it yet, but I think I can shim them to point higher to get that cold air to fill the car better. (cold air drops...) I'd also recommend ordering an extra length of

2" flex tubing, as they only provide the absolute minimum to get it the job done. I like a bit more slack, so I ordered a 6' piece and re-ran it.

I'm sure thats more information than you needed. I totally dissambeled my '66 coupe and replaced every nut, bolt, wire, and knob on the car, so I enjoyed trading war stories about the experience of restoration.

Hope you're having a great Christmas..

Reply to
Mustang_66

That was NOT more information than needed. It was right on the mark! The 65 and 66 being, essentially, the same, what you have done with yours, I am faced with on either one or both of mine (the 65 is MUCH further along that road). The 66 really has nothing wrong with it that new gaskeys, seals, weatherstrip, bumpers, and plugs wouldn't correct. The front and rear glass is already done (had to replace the front due to a crack so did the rear seal at the same time). With both out, only two pin pricks of rust found, and the sealant turned out to be the oem factory. I even got the phone number for the guy who originally bought the car from the dealer in San Jose where it was built, and he'll talk your ear off about it. The car stayed in Calif until late 70s when it went to southern Nevada, and where I bought it in Las Vegas a few weeks ago. Runs great and strong. Shifter a bit sloppy but hey, it's

37 years old (year I graduated HS 1966). Lost my wife and son last year and this is my catharsis.

So, whatever scraps of information you want to send my way, very happy to have the input.

d

V'ger

1965 Fastback 2+2 Burgundy w/ Black A Code 4 spd 1966 Fastback 2+2 White w/Red C Code Auto
Reply to
V'ger

V'ger

1965 Fastback 2+2 Burgundy w/ Black A Code 4 spd 1966 Fastback 2+2 White w/Red C Code Auto
Reply to
V'ger

Anytime you want to talk about these cars just post here or send me a privates message. There's a ton of "look out fors" with these cars, if you're going the complete disassembly/Assembly route.... would be nice to just be able to say frame off...

Reply to
Mustang_66

Kind of hard to say "frame off" when it's all essentially one. Actually, at this point I'm not ready for a total tear down. I want to get the basic mechanicals in good working order (ie seals/ghaskets aren't leaking all over my driveway....) Then I'll look at the rest. Not that I won't be doing things while the engine is out..... What I really need is a plan of attack.... any recommendations?

d

V'ger

1965 Fastback 2+2 Burgundy w/ Black A Code 4 spd 1966 Fastback 2+2 White w/Red C Code Auto
Reply to
V'ger

You're on the right track... mechanicals first.

While you have the engine out, you'll have a good opportunity to work on the front suspension & steering components. Its also a good time to cleanup and repaint the engine compartment... I sandblasted mine using a $39.00 sandblaster & a couple bags of sand...it looked good as new after I primed and painted. Don't miss the opportunity to check your steering box. If you have any doubt about whether or not it needs to be replaced, the best time to replace it is with the engine out... I failed to do it at that time, and the replacement with engine installed was a real bi#ch. I can almost promise you that you need to change the control arm bushings, strut rod bushings, grease caps all around, and sway bar bushings.... Converting to front power disc brakes is also a great thing to do during this time...

I'm curious how you're getting 310 HP from the components I see you have installed... a roller cam is a good idea, if you have the funds. You can get fairly radical, while maintaining good drivability. What tranny do you have? 310hp could wreck a C-4 if you're not careful...

I don't know what your budget is, but I can tell you I have over $30K into my '66 and I did all the work myself, minus paint & headliner. I'm really happy with this car, but will never get what I have into it, should I ever sell it.

Click the link in my signature for just a few pics.

dissambeled

Reply to
Mustang_66

Nevermind about the 310hp thing... I was still thinking about another post, I had just read... Holidays=brain mush...

Reply to
Mustang_66

whoa...... I'm no where near 310hp... the 66 has the stock (and original 289V8 2v w/single exhaust and c4 tranny.... ; ) I WISH in which case I'd opt for a FMX maybe...

V'ger

1965 Fastback 2+2 Burgundy w/ Black A Code 4 spd 1966 Fastback 2+2 White w/Red C Code Auto
Reply to
V'ger

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