How do i get rid of the bog down when you step on the pettle ? Car should go fast but delays acceleration? Why? Safety? can it be fix or minimized? Thanks
- posted
14 years ago
How do i get rid of the bog down when you step on the pettle ? Car should go fast but delays acceleration? Why? Safety? can it be fix or minimized? Thanks
Drive by wire. You can get it somewhat corrected with an aftermarket tune.
Does your car have traction control? Have you tried turning it off? See page
185- 186 of your owners manual...Is this a V6? is this an automatic? So many questions...
I bought a Superchips cortex for my Titan. When It arrived I had a
1/4 tank of regular gas, so I started with the economy tune first until I filled up with premium. The difference in throttle response alone made it at first FEEL like I'd gained 150 HP. A very massive difference. On the Titan there us something called a WOT torque limiter, this programmer removes that and it makes an unbelievable difference.
I don't know why Ford makes the cars so sluggish as standard. Perhaps a bit of delay is important to emissions testing.
I had a BamaChips tune on my 2006 4.0 automatic. It did make a remarkable difference in the driving experience. I don't believe a Cooler Air Intake would have as much of an influence on the "tip-in" response, as a simple tune did, no CAI. Much of the difference was in the transmission's response.
A couple years ago there was some advice going around about the actual throttle pedal and its role in the drive-by-wire function of your right foot. First advice was to "zero-out" the pedal's slack by turning on the ignition, waiting until all the bells and lights stopped dinging and flashing, slowly press the pedal all the way to the firewall, hold for ten seconds, slowly release the pedal completely, wait ten seconds, turn it off, turn it on and start the car. It seemed that you needed to do this every time you started the engine. Many reported excellent value-for-money in this procedure. I could not detect any improvement in my until-then-untouched V6 car. There were variations on the time, sequence, and rapidity of the actions, none of which did anything for me. No guarantee that they wouldn't work for someone else, with a more suggestible car. Couldn't hurt.
In that same area, there was a modification to the electronic apparatus at the connected end of the pedal. It involved taking the thing off and bending the hair-like traveling contacts. I never tried that. Too delicate a job for my fumblefingers.
But I did verify the efficacy of the BamaChips tunes. From stock, same day, same conditions, the best of them was worth half-a-second or more in the eighth-mile drags. Fastest ETs were with a 91-octane "performance tune", highest terminal speeds were with a "torque" tune. And the automatic responded quicker and shifted more crisply. Good deal, according to my experience over thirty or forty "controlled" drag runs and about eight thousand miles of street and highway driving. Oh, yeah: a few dozen autocross runs, as well.
I have a 2009 GT/CS coupe with manual transmission. The BamaChips tunes really perk up the performance and response. I just got a 2008 GT/CS convertible with automatic. It's nice, but I can't wait for the tunes to set it free.
A tune?
I think it's because the vast majority of people are slothy on acceleration. Around here I can get the jump on most drivers with my bicycle. yes, I'm being serious they are that slow to react and get going and then they act like there is a egg under their car's accelerator pedal.
V8 standard not like driving a 1994 mustang
Hey Brent, Your comment on bicycles vs. cars brought back memories of my youth (1950s), when a good bet was that a bicycle could beat a car from a standing stop in the first 50-100 feet. The bicycle usually won. Ah, memories. Dick (with an old 84 Capri 5.0 with a 4 bbl carb)
Does the gas pedal move about 1/2 inch before anything happens? A lot of newer Mustangs have this issue. The alignment of the potentiometer in the pedal can create a dead spot at the beginning of the travel. I was able to correct this on our '08 by loosening the potentiometer cover screws, rotating the cover as far as the screw holes would allow, then re-tightening the screws. Others have disassembled the unit and fiddled with the angle of the contact brushes, while some have just added a mechanical stop of some sort to change the pedal's resting position. See the thread in the link below. My post is #29.
Do all of the 2005 and newer V8 Mustangs have this "drive-by-wire" ?
2004 the last year for manual throttle bodies ?Yeachhh
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Yeachhh
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Yep In normal driving you don't even notice it. Until you quick tap the gas on a downshift is when it first gets noticeable. In a 2 pedal car you probably will not notice it, but in a 3 pedal car it's very apparent.
That's too bad. I've owned over 10 Mustangs and ALL have been manual shift.
Looks like I'll be keeping the 2001 Bullitt for a while after all ...
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I said that about fuel injection and it's lag compared to carbs. I've adjusted to FI and starting to adjust to drive by wire also as it's here to stay.
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