5 speed Trans Help Needed

No other way, you have to remove the exhaust , converter, e-brake cable and heat shield to get it out.

You should be able to get it out with a seal puller.

I had to make one. An 8 sided one won't work. The problem is ONLY snap on tools makes wrenches that don't spread when you pull in them, and even they won't work everytime.

Heat the case around the plug good and hot with a heat gun or propane torch and go after it with a pipe wrench with a cheater bar on it. You could also try driving the car at high speeds (interstate) for a while to heat up the gearbox. It should come out as it was probably tighened at some point when the case was still hot.

Thanks for all the help Steve; I was trying to avoid removing the exhaust system and was hopeing to get enough clearance to pull the driveshaft out just enough to replace the seal. There is quite a large access hole from above and again thought I might be able to do the seal from that access? I have managed to pull the driveshaft out about two inches, but need three to four inches I bet? The exh systen is pretty new but the converter bolts and forward pipe to manifold bolts have never been removed. I don't want to break those exh manifold studs. Heat is the answer here, right? Thanks again.

Of course the dealer sold me the wrong transmission oil seal. The one I need comes with a big metal collar that covers part of the drive shaft. The books are not clear on this and lead you to believe the seal comes out of the collar....not so...all one piece. Well, I had some good luck today after hours of frustration. After removing the intermediate pipe and muffler, I took a chance and the drive shaft slid back in there (where the exh pipe was) like it was made for it to be done. The rear seal with its collar slid off from above through the shifter hole with just a tiny bit of coaxing with a flat bladed screwdriver. I was so very close to going to a muffler shop to get the whole exhaust system removed. Whew!

No way that's going to happen.

Yes and an air impact gun if you have one is less likely to break them then doing it by hand. Soak them with "PB Blaster" a few times before you go after them, WD40 is a joke for rusty bolts.

I actually prefer BG products "in force" but it's hard for a consumer to find. Best rust buster I've ever seen, the stuff is AMAZING. You might be able to contact a local distributor and find out where you can buy some locally?

The smaller one will work fine if the seal itself is right. That big metal part isn't maditory.

Yep that way is a fight. I'd never do it that way but glad it worked out..

Thanks again Steve. The two seals are nowhere close in size. I wonder what the collar (shield) does? Any chance you would share your specs on your homemade tool for the tranny fill plug? My son was sent away from the dealer with an $86 bill and never did get oil put in the transmission. It had been leaking about a half pint every 500 miles. He checked the oil level 1,000 miles before and had put the plug in too tight using the same half inch breaker bar that he used to remove it. He tightened it well so it would not leak you see(opps). So, after 1,000 miles and his inability to remove the plug, I told him to get the the dealer to service the transmission. I mean how much could that be when you can get an oil change for $25, right? They charged him $86 and told he needed all new seals except the front seal. He also needed a reverse light switch. They told him they could not get the fill plug out. They sent him out on the road with low transmission oil. Unreal! But he had the good ideal of adding oil thru the top of the trans through the shifter access hole before driving the vehicle over 100 miles to Dad's house. I plan on sending a complaint letter asking for a $43 refund. Again, I would love to make my own 4 point socket, size: 17mm or 11/16", any ideas? I have checked the net for days and lots of people are looking for 4 point sockets, but can't find them. Why would an 8 point not work?

It's to keep dirt out of the seal. Lots of cars don't have these and work fine.

Basically I took a 17mm wrench and welded a bar across the tips of the open end so that they can't spread when you pull on it with a long pipe! :-) It took some work with a square file to get it to fit just right but works great.

I'm assuming it's the 17mm square type?

See above.

It doesn't grip well enough, I've tried them and they aren't what you need.

ALso you can fill the through the reverse light switch hole and get the level pretty close if it just WON'T come out.

Thanks again Steve; I looked at the old seal quite extensively and it looks good, what gives? Maybe it died of old age?

If it's leaking, then yes it's just old.. Also check the metal plug in the back of the driveshaft yoke, I've seen a couple of those leaking over the years which will look like a seal leaking.

Many thanks again Steve, I will look at that plug.

The unused trans plug was fine. With the help of an expert electric welder, we fabricated a special tool, welding a tip on a 17mm wrench and welded a half inch drive impact socket over the flat end of the completed wrench. I had to cut the handle of the wrench off to be able to get the square tool down in the shallow well in the transmission. With my son pushing a

24" breaker bar with his foot and me using wood to hold the square socket and breaker bar on the damaged plug, we were able to remove and replace the damaged plug. Thanks again Steve. I was also able to replace the rear transmission seal and collar by using a wood 2 by 4 to wedge it in from above. The only problem is the driver's side strut let loose with fluid when I dropped it off the jackstands it had been on for 2 weeks. Oh well?