Nissan Pathfinder, 1988-1995 Tips and DIY

I thought I'd post some hints and tips for the first generation Pathfinders, that people might find useful and/or fairly easy to do.

Front End Alignment - frequently done improperly

The torsion bars have a slow memory. If the vehicle has been on a hoist prior to an alignment, the front end alignment will be incorrect because the front end will be sitting higher than normal. The only place we've been able to get the front end alignment done correctly is a Nissan dealer.

Front End Clunking Noise - when turned to lock

Steering stops keep the front wheels from being turned past a certain point. The steering stops are built with plastic caps. How long would anyone expect those to last? Anyway, they fall off, and you have metal-to-metal contact between moving parts. The result is when going over bumps, with the steering turned to lock, such as when turning across curbs, you get a nasty sounding and feeling clunking. The solution is to grease the stops and contact areas. There are four of them, and they are easy to find and grease without raising the vehicle.

Power Door Lock Actuator - factory defect

We found one of ours was defective when manufactured. I suppose I could have tried to get a free repair or replacement, but it was less hassle to fix it myself. It involved reseating a piece of circuit board, and repairing the traces on the board that had been worn through.

Hood Bug Deflectors - affects wipers

The front hood deflector will protect the paint on the front of the hood from chipping, and helps deflect bugs and debris higher on the windshield. But it will also cause the wipers to float off the glass at higher speeds. You can get springs to put on the wiper arms to correct this, but they're hard to install, and a hassle.

Roof Rack Noise

If you have the factory sun roof and roof rack, Nissan advises to move the front bar of the rack rearward to reduce wind noise inside the car. If you have no reason to keep them on, the crosspieces that protect the roof can also be removed. That makes washing/waxing easier.

Spare Tire Carrier - bushings and rattling

The hinges for the spare tire carrier tend to become tighter as they rust inside. The carrier becomes more difficult to swing, and puts enough stress on the body seams to crack them open and expose them to rust. Nissan dealers will lubricate the hinges for free if you ask them. If you get to the point of replacing the bushings because the carrier is loose and rattles, it's a good idea to also replace the plastic bumper pad on the latch end. Otherwise the new bushings will hold the carrier off the pad, resulting in more rattling when you thought you'd fixed it.

Rust Areas & undercoating

The Pathfinders tend to rust under the back seat. This is caused by an exposed seam on the underbody which fills with water/salt and does not dry out. I used to think it was from condensation in the interior under the seat, but no longer believe this. Frequently check under the back seat for tell-tale rust bulges. One possible solution is to drill a little hole in the bulge and inject oil regularly. I haven't tried that. Otherwise, it is a fairly easy dyi job on the passenger's side to replace the rusted metal. More difficult on the drivers side.

The other rust problem is on the 4-door models, between the rear wheel opening and the bottom rear corner of the back door opening. The solution is to have anti-rust oil compound sprayed inside the back ends of the rocker panels.

Wheel Balance - dirt on chromed wheels

The chrome steel wheels have a pronounced lip where the weights mount. In dirty conditions, these lips quickly collect lots of sand\mud etc. As they do, they cancel out the effect of balancing weights, and the wheels go out of balance. Nice piece of design work, Nissan.

Noise Insulation

By today's standards, the first generation Pathfinders are pretty noisy. This can be reduced by installing sound deadener in the doors, and especially up against the firewall. More ambitious people can remove the seats and console and line the floor with another layer. It's easy to do under the back seat, more difficult to do in the cargo area. Another trick is to use self-stick automotive weatherstripping and add a second line of rubber around all the door openings.

Parking Brake Cable - seized

The early symptom of this is that the parking brake lever rattles on rough roads. Eventually it won't release all the way. Replacing the cable requires removing the console, which is not terribly difficult. The biggest problem is that the cable has a housing that bolts to the floor, under the carpets, and behind the console. Since the carpet is so laborious to remove, I cut some slits in the carpet to access the bolt heads. The slits are pretty well invisible, and are covered by the floor mats anyway.

Rear Seat Hinges - space for sleeping

You can drill out the hinge pins securing the rear seat bottoms, and replace them with bolts and wingnuts. Although it's a bit fiddly, you then can remove the rear seat bottoms, leaving either space for more cargo, or for sleeping. The seat bottoms can be arranged to fill the remaining gaps.

Front Door Hinge Pins - not dyi

If the doors have begun to sag too much, the hinge pins can be replaced. This is better left to the pros, since it's so difficult I'd never do it again.

Radio Buttons - fall off

The radio buttons are prone to falling off, since for some functions, you have to pull on them. (Good thinking!) Replacements are ridiculously expensive. You can prevent this annoyance by glueing them on.

Rear Bumper Protection - trailer hitch

The rear bumper has a brittle plastic insert around the license plate, which itself hangs below the bumper. All this gets damaged when running out of rear end clearance. The bumper itself is so flimsy you can almost bend it with your hands. What were they thinking? The solution is to mount a cheap trailer hitch which will protect the fragile bits.

Power Window Motors

Now and then, operate all the power windows. This keeps the mechanisms exercised and less likely to seize. Once in a while, lubricate the glass channels with spray silicone lubricant, to reduce the strain on the window motors.

Problems Awaiting Solutions:

- drivers door mirror glass shakes at higher speeds

- rust under side window lower sill black trim

- complete lack of cupholders (again, what were they thinking?)

- economical replacement of shrouds on exhaust system.

Reply to
SGrant
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As owner of a '93 Pathfinder I recognised several of these problems. Thanks for the tips!

Keith.

Reply to
arrooke

Hi SGrant, Nice post. Would like to know more about the door lock actuator, as this is a current problem with my '94. Thanks for the summary. -Leslie

Reply to
Leslie

Here's more than you ever wanted to hear about the lock problem.

The easy way to fix this is take it to your Nissan dealer. I know the price for the actuator alone is $210cdn. The next easiest solution is to buy the part and install it yourself. Taking door panels off is always a lengthy and tricky hassle the first time, but you quickly learn to do it in minutes. A factory repair manual is very useful, or you can "practice" at a wrecker.

The next option is to buy a replacement Nissan actuator from a wrecker. These actuators were redesigned so often, I couldn't find an exact second-hand replacement. If you are good enough at car wiring, and have the needed diagrams, you could install a non-identical actuator as long as it worked on similar principles. You can buy third-party, universal actuators, for as little as $10, but these will involve the same compatibility and wiring issues. Pathfinder actuators apear to use a little electric motor, while the third party actuators I've seen use a solenoid.

To troubleshoot mine, which was in the passenger side front door, I got an actuator out of a back door, only to find it was not compatible with the front one. Then I removed the actuator in the drivers door, and was able to plug it into the wring in the passenger door. This is despite the passenger door actuator being a "slave" actuator, while the driver door actuator is a "master" actuator. A master actuator has extra wiring to send lock or unlock commands to the control module or the other locks, while a slave actuator just responds to lock or unlock voltages.

If you gently push or pull on the lock rod on a functioning and wired-up actuator, it will take over and fully retract or extend the lock rod. Whether or not it is working is unmistakable. This will finally tell you if the actuator itself is at fault.

Having reached this point, I reasoned there was no downside to taking apart the suspect actuator. Seemingly broken, it was worthless anyway. It was easy to disassemble, but it contains more parts and has a more complex operation than I expected. You might want to make rough diagrams (or take pictures) of the orientation of the parts as you remove and disassemble it, including the position of the lock rod clip and how it attaches to the actuator. Fortunately there are no parts that will spring out at you, so you can safely open it up to see if you feel like tackling it.

What I found was a small printed circuit board which had not been fully seated in the actuator when it was manufactured. This left the side of the board with printed traces in contact with a toothed plastic partial gear that wore through the traces as the gear/arm cycled back and forth across the board. I think I used a soldering iron to melt plastic to get the board seated properly, and used the iron to solder across the broken traces. I then greased and reassembled it. While I was able to figure out how the parts went back together, I wished I had made some diagrams. End of problem. (Except for putting the three doors back together. When you replace the door panels, remember to properly arrange the vent flap in the rain screen, or you'll have to take it apart again. When removing the door panels, use a proper tool or you'll break the plastic clips or tear the panel's backing material. Consider installing soundproofing while you're in there.)

I spent far more than $210 worth of my time figuring all this out, but it was well worth it to not pay the exorbitant part cost, and it was very satisfying to fix something that a manufacturer probably never intended to be fixed. I guess you would also have the option of approaching Nissan about a manufacturing defect. I learned enough from it that I later installed a customized power door lock system and a trip computer in another car, plus finally fixed the Pathfinder's persistent short in the wiring for the glove compartment light.

Good luck.

Reply to
SGrant

A helpful post. Thank you.

-- Andrew Chaplin SIT MIHI GLADIUS SICUT SANCTO MARTINO (If you're going to e-mail me, you'll have to get "yourfinger." out.)

Reply to
Andrew Chaplin

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