'95 maxima start problem

Hi All,

I have a '95 maxima SE automatic with about 115k miles on it. Lately, it became difficult to get it started in the morning at the first try. I have to try up to 3 times to start the engine. But once it starts, it runs with no problem. I checked the engine code and got

0505 (No Failure Recorded/Detected). The car had the 120k miles maintenance done and fuel injector cleaned. (but the problem exists before that, I was hoping the problem will go away after the maintenance done) Any suggestions ?

thanks.

Steve

Reply to
Steve Hsueh
Loading thread data ...

Do you mean starter does not turn over? Dead spot on starter is common problem for our model. Search here or maxima.org for comments. If you mean starter turns, but motor does not "catch," that is something else. Good Luck Bob

95 SE Auto 89 SE Auto traded

Lately, it

cleaned.

Reply to
BeeP

My 96' maxima GXE automatic, has the same problem when starting. But it only fails sometimes in winter, and if I press the accel paddle, it will be OK. Is this common for all old cars, or only Nissan auto? Thanks,

Reply to
Leo

I am really appreciate your help. If I wanna clean the throttle body myself, I wonder if I need to use a new gasket. Also from repair manual, it is said, a easily happening air leak will do harm to the fuel system. Then if I still can repair it myself? And is there any additonal stuff I need to buy to repair it? Many thanks.

Leo

Reply to
Leo

You do not need to get a new throttle body gasket. Just make sure you treat it carefully when you pull of the throttle body as it is very fragile stiff material. Also, torque the bolts back down in order and at proper spec when you are done--this is the best way to avoid air leaks.

For what it's worth, all you need to do is separate the intake off the front of the TB, then loosen the 4 TB bolts. You will then have enough room to tilt up the inside part of the TB to get a towel (laden with TB/intake cleaner) in there. Make sure you get the back of the butterfly valve and the walls of the TB. THis way, you don't have to remove the stubborn coolant hoses nor the rest of your intake system. While you are there, it may be a good idea to spray a liberal amt of cleaner into the EGR guide tube as this often gets clogged down the line. After the procedure, your idle rpm may be a little higher but it'll drift down to normal over the course of a few days.

Also, while you are in the area, check to make sure your Pcv valve is working or just replace it outright if it is time.

CW

Reply to
CWu

I was under the impression that a purge treatment of the engine cleaned the throttle body as well as the fuel lines and injectors. I've had that done twice in the past 6 months as well as standard maintenance. I recently had the car tuned so, new plugs, PCV valve replaced, etc., etc., etc. When I am trying to start my Maxima, sometimes it starts with no difficulty at all. When it has been driven hard and is left for 20 - 30 minutes it takes a long time to start. I have tried not depressing the gas pedal, slightly depressing the gas pedal, pumping the gas prior to starting, slightly depressing the gas pedal while the engine is cranking -- nothing makes a difference. What is constant is the smell of gasoline and the black smoke that pours out of the exhaust once it finally ignites. I had the car tested for Ontario's clean air drive yesterday and it passed with flying colours so I cannot imagine there is anything seriously wrong with the fuel delivery system or engine management systems.

Is anyone aware of a recall that may be related to this? My next step was to search the NHTSA site to determine the extent of this problem. I am dreading the coming winter as it is bloody hard to get this thing started right now. If I can't solve the problem soon, out the door it goes along with a recommendation to stay away from these vehicles to my circle of acquaintances. After spending over $1500 in the past 3 months on sensors that have failed only to have an engine light constantly on and a car that is hit or miss in terms of actually starting, I am not impressed.

Again, the mechanic I have been taking all of my vehicles to for the past several years tells me that I am not alone experiencing this grief and that it afflicts both manual and automatic transmission vehicles. He was so perplexed with the problem that he took it to a local dealer. Their answer / suggestion was to replace the fuel injectors

cheers

.. kcl ..

Reply to
Kevin Light

Not sure what you mean by "purge" treatment but the only effective way to clean the inside of the throttle body is to do it manually. Normally, a mechanic would charge you $60-80 but it is easily done yourself.

Given that you mentioned the fuel lines and injectors, are you referring to fuel injector cleaners that you add to your gas? If so, these have no effect on your intake system which to me includes your filter/intake/throttlebody/intake manifold.

CW

Reply to
CWu

Power purging involves attaching an external pressurized canister to the fuel system that you then run the engine from. The procedure cleans the entire fuel system - throttle body, injectors, fuel lines, etc. - as well as deposits on the valve train. I have noticed an increase in power and engine response after having this done. The issue lies with the actual starting of the engine itself. Once it ignites, it runs fine (except for a broken bolt on the exhaust manifold - another common problem I am told). You mentioned the entire intake system. I do have a K&N filter installed that I cleaned about a month ago, after the starting problem started.

I will disassemble the throttle body and inspect / clean it if required, however my mechanic insists that it has been cleaned - it was one of the first things that he checked. Can you recommend a good product for cleaning the TB? I'm simply surprised by the number of people having the same set of problems that I am - the continual eating of sensors, starting issues, exhaust manifold bolts, headlight wiring harness on the driver's side, etc., etc. While I drive in a spirited fashion, I am quite meticulous about maintenance so I do not believe that to be the root cause. I don't particularly want to sell the car as the body / chassis are in excellent shape. But, I cannot accept that a problem like this cannot be diagnosed and fixed. As mentioned in an earlier post, the mechanic I take all of my vehicles to resorted to sending it to a dealer as he could not determine the cause of the problem. The car worked just fine for about 15 minutes. Now the dealer is suggesting replacing the fuel injectors. Based on the amount of gas I can smell while trying to start the car, I don't believe fuel delivery is at issue.

The one good thing from all of this, if there is one, is that the folks at the garage I deal with would never buy one of these cars after working on mine and the 5 or 6 other Maximas that are brought in to them. He is trying to get me into an Acura / Honda - going to take a look at one this afternoon as a matter of fact.

Reply to
Kevin Light

Been out of town all week, so just getting to your note.

I recently had the car tuned so, new plugs and cables, fuel filter, idle RPM set, etc.; starter was replaced at about 150k km (about 20 months ago) so it should be OK; had the battery and cables replaced at the same time and I went with the strongest battery I could put in it - Ottawa winters (when I am here) are tough. The mechanic I go to always recommends OEM parts and sets it up based on the numbers from the mfr.

I went out in it today and it was a b$$$h to start - somedays it starts fine when cold. Coming home from the soccer field, car started on the first crank. This is what is most maddening about the problem. I could overlook the other issues I have with the car as it does have 210k km but after spending all of the money I have on sensors, a tune up, etc. to still have these kinds of problems, I'm just a bit P.O'd.

I'll clean the throttle body this week as I am working in Ottawa - bit easier than working remotely. I'll let you know how I make out.

My front suspension noise is being caused by worn struts - next on the list to be followed by bearings for 1st and 2nd gear. I've learned to live with the noise from the broken exhaust manifold bolt but it still ticks me off. Did see a really nice Acura TL S type last weekend. Handles better than the Max and goes like a scared rabbit .....

cheers

Reply to
Kevin Light

I don't believe that Maximas are out there, eating their sensors for lunch. I do believe that mechanics who like to replace Maxima sensors are profiting from their ignorance. TWO cam sensors in 6 months, etc. is just absurd.

If your mechanic wants you to buy a Honda/Accura, then they probably feel more comfortable working on them. What I remember most about my Acura was that it was a maintenance hound & cost me a fortune. My I30t does not.

Sounds to me like your mechanic has you guys wrapped around their little fingers. "Took it to the dealer to see what they thought" is a real laugh.

JM

Reply to
JM

i have the same problem only in cold weather no one has yet posted a fix but it is obviously a common problem so SOMEBODY shoudl know what it is some help?

Reply to
95 MAX 145k

Throttle body clean verify base idle rpm

Reply to
CWu

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.