95Max Throttle Body Question

Sep 07, 2005 6 Replies

After 10+ years, but only 90,000 km., and reading many articles here about the joys of throttle body cleaning, I decided to have at it this morning. Using motorvate's instructions it proved a breeze but,


  1. After I finished and took it out for a test drive the CHECK light came on when it wasn't before the cleaning.


  1. The only difficulty proved to be the replacing of the air filter body. When connecting the top to the bottom, the filter itself continually crept up(like a caterpillar crawling) which prevented the clasps from securing it. Finally I got them to close but noticed that the top and bottom of the unit did not meet altho they were tight against the filter. Was this ok?

  2. When I disassembled the air filter housing from the next unit up toward the throttle body in order to give me more working room, I noticed that the protruding round connector (2" diam.) on the air filter housing was rubber while the one it joined to was plastic(?). When connected, the rubber one was "inside" the plastic one. Shouldn't this be the other way around with the clamp on the rubber extension rather than the plastic one? I re-connected it the way I found it but it just felt strange. Was it correctly assembled originally?

Anyway I look forward to better cool starts, smoother idling, and maybe better gas mileage. From my test drive it seems to be peppier, but . . . .


The check engine light may have come on due to all the gunk that just washed through the system. All that built up carbon you brushed off got sucked right in. The check engine light probably go off after a few days of driving.

CD

CD,

this is incorrect. The light will likely not go off by itself.

the CELhas turned on because he either damaged a sensor while performing the work, forgot to reconnect one of the harnesses. There is an off chance there is a piece of carbon stuck somewhere, but not likely.

To the OP: Make sure you reconnected the MAF and IATS connectors on the intake.

Also, it's hard to understand from verbal description, what parts you are referring to, but it sounds like you didn't have things quite lined up when you tried to reassemble and perhaps your air filter is not seated correctly in the housing (or maybe even upside down).

Cheers, Nirav

96 Max GLE, 122k

Thanks for trying to make sense of my description. I'll try to help more below.

All disconnections as per motorvate were reconnected. Sensors - who knows, but thanks for the tip.

Sorry I don't know the correct names for these parts but that's why I asked for help, which you've kindly offered. I know that it makes it difficult though. 8)

Air filter was replaced in the same position as the old one which had been done by a mechanic.

Let me see if I can help. I've looked everywhere for a parts explosion so I could advance this discussion but no luck. If you could take the time to look at the motorvate picture that shows "you can remove the oil separator/ MAF as one unit" I might be able to give you more data. The MAF, I guess, is at the lower right just above the copyright mark. On my Max it is within a larger housing that holds the air filter. In order to facilitate things - I thought - I removed the MAF (still within the housing) and the "parts" directly above them in the picture (rectangular thingy) up to that part that has a triangular cross-section (up about one-half inch). The two parts (MAF et al) and triangular thingy are connected by a worm gear clamp joining two circular extrusions, one from each part (as I've defined them). Now, when I unclamped them I found that the extrusion (about 2" dia.) from the lower (in the picture) "part" that included the MAF + air filter housing + rectangular piece was rubber and was inserted within the extrusion from the plasticky triangular part. That seemed strange to me. Shouldn't the rubber part contain the other extrusion? (getting a little sexual there folks!) Then, the clamp would contact it.

I know this might sound like grade one to some of you mechanic types, but if I don't try these operations I'll never learn.

I looked at the motorvate photo, but I'm still lost when you start trying to describe all the pieces as extrusions, etc. Why not take a picture, edit it to label each part and post it on imageshack.com and link it here...

Another thing you can do is retrieve the codes stored in the computer.

How to get the code:

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What the code means:
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Post back with which codes you retrieved.

Your air intake looks different from the motorvate one because you have the factory stock intake, whereas Frank (motorvate) has an aftermarket intake on his car.

The IATS is the intake-air-temp-sensor, the connector is located right near where you plug the harness into the MAF. If you look carefully, you'll see there are two electrical connectors there, the MAF is one, and then there is one more behind the MAF (an inch or two) - that connects to the intake air temp sensor. Make sure you plugged both of those back in.

Cheers, Nirav

Yes, the CEL can reset itself . . . .without user intervention. The ECU is continually checking all electronic aspects of the car, and if it finds that a condition that caused an error is not repeatedly causing the the error, the CEL will go off. I've experienced this dozens of times on a few Nissans.

To the original poster, if you're sure that you've re-connected everything back properly, drive it for a few days and see if the CEL goes away, or, as suggested, pull the codes and check that area.

CD

I understand that the ECU may turn off the light if the problem condition is not detected for a preset number of cycle, but the fact that the light turned on to begin with indicates that ECU detected a problem and it is worthwhile for the OP to track it down futher. Driving without knowing what code is stored could result in further damage to other sensors/components.

As I had suggested, it might be as simple as a harness that he forgot to reconnect.

Cheers, Nirav

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