Dim Clock Fix

Apr 09, 2004 5 Replies

As many of you have experienced, I too had a dim clock on my 3rd Gen Max. I got several tips, and a few links to sites to show me how to replace the capacitors.



But, it turns out the connector into the back of the clock wasn't making good contact. All I had to do was connect/disconnect it 6 or 8 times, and now the clock is as bright as it should be. All the caps looked fine, so I left them alone.



At least I got some practice taking the dashboard apart. It needed a good cleaning anyway.



Bill G '91 SE Auto



164K miles

Hey Bill G, After all that work, don't you wish there was something really wrong !? I did that job and found cold solder joints, which were the problem - easy fix per the websites. Then went to the junkyard and pulled an extra clock just in case for the future, never needed it. The solder joint thing was intermittent for a long time, then the clock went dark. My conclusion was the assembly line started with the clock, and then they added all the necessary stuff around it to complete the car! Good luck. (Had my 3rd Gen 167K miles, the body rusted out.) Bob

95 SE Auto 89 SE Auto traded

On Fri, 09 Apr 2004 00:51:33 -0400, "Bill G"

How do you take it apart?

Carefully. There is a car stereo website that has a nice write-up on the

4th gen. 0) Disconnect the battery, and anti-theft code on your stereo if you have one. 1) Pull the top panel (center vents & clock). You can get a start by inserting a flat screwdriver and prying the lower (closer) half away from the dash to unclip the lower clips on each side. Then pull it straight away and slightly downward and it will undo the clips on top around the vents. They are pretty stout, so be careful. 2) Pry up the shifter surround panel in the rear, carefully. There is a clip at each rear corner that unclip by pulling straight up. Then lift the rear half, and pull down/back from the dash to separate the top clips. Unplug the lighter. On my 5 speed, the shifter boot prevents you from removing this panel, so I wrap it in a towel and maneuver it out of the way. 3) Undo the screw holding the left side of the ashtray, and pull it straight back (there is a clip holding the right side). Unplug the light and set it aside. 4) Undo the 4 screws holding the DIN rack (2 top, 2 bottom). Lift the rack straight back, and pay attention to the plugs in back.

I've done it several times, and I have some suggestions.

- Use duct tape to cover the vinyl immediately surrounding the dash parts. When you remove them, they will still have wires connected, and sharp sheetmetal clips and frames. The duct tape will save you from gouging your dash as you undo the plugs. Also having hand towels on hand helps because you can slide the towel behind the newly pulled panel or wrap it up to cover the sharp edges if the panel isn't worth fully unplugging.

- Use a flat prying tool with dull edges so you don't leave marks in the gap around the panel.

- Always pull in the correct direction to pop the clips. If you twist or pull any of the clips funny you may break the clip, and you'll have a squeaky dash for life. My dash has no squeaks (fingers crossed) and it probably won't if I don't break any clips. If you have a digicam, take pictures of the clips on each part so you can refresh your memory next time you take the dash apart.

Dave

I dug through to find the original poster has a 3rd gen. Oh well.

Dave

I used the info on these pages.

formatting link
Bill G '91 SE Auto

164K miles

Join the Discussion

Have something to add? Share your thoughts — no account required.

Didn't find your answer?

Ask the community — no account required