dreaded 405 matrix

I have a 95 405 (uk car) heater matrix leaks!! can anyone tell me if I can do the job without remving the dash? The car has air con.

Reply to
beanmasteruk
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Yes it can and if you do a search on Google groups you'll find the method detailed. Basically remove the glovebox, remove the centre console, disconnect the dash at the n/s and the middle. Get someone to pull the dash away while you get under and disconnect the pipes to the matrix and pull it out. Drain the cooling system first!!

Reply to
nigel

This subject keeps coming up, so I've dug out the post I did in December

2001 (and repeated in May 2005) after I replaced a matrix on my Mark 1 J Reg 405 turbo diesel estate, which I did only after a lot of advice and encouragement from others in this group. And if you clamp the heater hoses under the bonnet at the bulkhead you don't need to drain the system.

In fact apart from the one fascia screw I didn't need to touch the fascia at all. But note this is a 1992 Mark 1. This, at the time, saved me £440 over the book price quoted by Peugeot London.

WARNING: It worked for me, but I take no responsibility whatever for whatever mess you might get into. Note that at the time another poster said Mark IIs were harder and dash did have to come out. (See immediately previous post)

And once again I point to this link (originally posted by someone else)

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is for a Rangerover but the O-ring housing and construction is virtually identical to a 405 - it helps to see the O-ring cover to know what you are going for. I guess it was about an hour to get the matrix out. Half an hour to fit. And an hour and a half to reassemble. But I'm slow. All while very uncomfortably laying with the door frame sticking in my ribs - so get a pillow!

Mark 1 1992 405 turbo diesel estate, without air conditioning. Basically you get the glove box out and everything else is easy.

  1. Remove the soft cowl under the glove box.
  2. Remove the lower side of the central tunnel. It's plastic and pops off four or five clips.
  3. Remove the lower plastic inner door surround, one screw and then pops off.
  4. Remove the eight or nine screws inside the glove box cover, and pull off outer skin.
  5. Tap out the roll pins inside the cover end of the two restraining arms with a suitably sized drill bit, split pin or drift. The glove box door is now free. [[Note how the springs go - I didn't and never got them back right]]
  6. Inside the glove box, with a mirror, find one screw in the centre top edge and one in the left top edge with heads facing away from you. Remove.
  7. On the left side near the big fascia screw, find a small screw pointing up. Remove.
  8. On the right side, near the big fascia screw, with a mirror, find a small screw pointing up, remove.
  9. Well above this, in the mirror, you can just see the last retaining screw, which I could not reach.
  10. Free the glove box, starting on the left. There is a big cable bundle tied to the box. Cut tie.
  11. At the top at the back is a clip which holds the edge. Prise edge free.
  12. The only thing now holding the glove box is the last unreachable screw noted at 9. I decided to break the plastic mounting tab rather than pay £450. I did this by pulling the box down and toward me. I don't think the box will be that much weaker without that screw.
  13. Under bonnet remove battery and clamp heater hoses. [[ KNOW YOUR RADIO CODE FIRST!]]
  14. Back inside, take out the big fascia screw just below matrix and near radio.
  15. Undo screw between two heater pipes [[A sod little x-head screw. See rangerover link for talk about replacing with Allen head screw]]. Push pipes back and up and catch no more than a litre of escaping coolant.
  16. Release clips holding matrix as if in a book's slip cover, and pull it out (to the left) taking care to hold clear pipes and bit of fascia mount near screw you removed. It just makes it.
  17. Instal replacement (£56 inc Vat from Peugeot.. less from factors), connect, top up coolant etc.""
[[ Obviously use new O-rings ... maybe they were all that were at fault! And get the x-head screw tight. Leave glove box out until you are sure you have fixed leak! Reassembly is the reverse, but you may need chewing gum or a magnetic screwdriver with some of the screws.]] [[I found that the replacement matrix did not go in all the way, though it works fine without it. Subsequently a helpful posted pointed out that sometimes there is a plastic cover off the end of the old matrix that gets stuck in there if so you can usually hook it out(or remove the cover off the end of yours). Subsequently to be tidy I hoiked out the matrix and fixed this. ]]
Reply to
Wichita

The Mk one is a Hell of a lot easier to do than the Mk 2, but only because you have to pull the dash out to get the matrix out. And the glovebox is slightly more difficult to remove. Otherwise they're basically the same.

Reply to
nigel

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