95 Grand Am GT lockout?

My boyfriend owns a 95 Grand Am GT. Among other problems, the AC has quit working, the cigarette lighter no longer works and the power locks are a bit finniky on the passenger door.

Besides that. He hasn't had the money to get a new license plate so its been sitting for a good month or so. We've gone out every few weeks to start it and make sure its still working. But we went out the other day and we could not unlock it. The clicker didn't work, and manually unlocking both the driver and passenger door resulted in a turning key but no unlocking of the door.

We thought it might need power to unlock, so we attached my car to it and attempted to jump, and no luck. (Getting into the engine was fun without a hood release - we had to unscrew the grill and pop it with a wrench)

Our only choice now is to figure out whats wrong or have it towed to the dealer. Is this mearly a power issue (let it charge longer on the jump) or a more serious problem.

Keep in mind the key WORKED before - like 2 weeks ago.

Reply to
jamina1
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You might try putting a new battery in the remote. The remotes for my '97 Firebird started acting a little hinky - had to push the button 2 or 4 times to unlock the door, etc. - and a new battery fixed that problem. The battery in the car shouldn't have gone dead in 2 weeks, but if it is the original, it could have died as well.

Tom S

Reply to
Tom S

You would think though, that the KEY would unlock the door?

I was under the assumption (my mom has a 97 Grand Am) that if one replaces the battery in the dongle, the codes reset and you have to take it to the dealership to get them in sync again.

Thanks for the reply, but my real question is why isn't the key working in the door?

Tom S wrote:

Reply to
jamina1

I didn't have any problems when I replaced the batteries in my dongle ('97 Firebird), just popped new ones in and used it the next day.

If you are physically putting the key in the keyhole and it will not turn, then something is frozen or binding in the cylinder or some other part of the lock mechanism. The first thing I would suggest is to get some graphite into the cylinder mechanism and try to free it up

- move the key in and out and try to rotate it. If it is not too frozen, this may lube it enough that you can get it working again.

If the lock cylinder turns but the door doesn't unlock, the control arm from the cylinder to the actual mechanism is broken or has come loose. You'll have to go inside the door to determine if you need to buy a new one or just re-attach the existing one. Be sure to get plenty of your favorite adult beverage and practice your cursing before attempting to remove the door panel and work inside the door. You will have plenty of opportunities to indulge in both. ((^:

Tom S.

Reply to
Tom S

On BOTH driver and passenger door? And all of a sudden? We can't get in the car to open the door panel. That's the thing. The dongle doesn't work, nor does the key - and it worked 2 weeks ago! :(

Stupid car.. Does it need power to unlock the doors?? Thats why we tried to jump it.

Reply to
jamina1

You don't need battery power to manually un-lock your doors. You would need battery power for your remote to un-lock them, but not with the key. It's very hard to believe that both doors will not unlock with the key, when they both did 2 weeks ago. You need to find someway of getting those doors open, and get the panels off and look inside. Does your car have the fold down seats or anything? Someone small enough may be able to fit in there and un lock and open the doors from the inside. Just be careful. As for one of your earlier posts about resetting the remote after replacing batteries, that shouldn't be required, and if it is, it's usually done by holding the Lock and Unlock buttons at the same time for a few seconds.

Reply to
80 Knight

If the key doesn't work, maybe the ley is too worn to work. If you can't get in, then why not call one of the services that come out to you and get the door open with a slimjim or whatever will work.

Reply to
J P C

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