How I finally solved minor body damage for beginners

I actually tried the folding out approach on the rear quarter panel of my '87 Buick last winter. It was a deep crease from a backing into a pole, and the initial instinct was to just swap the whole panel because it looked so distorted. I spent a couple of hours getting the inner metal back to shape rather than cutting it off. It felt a little risky because the metal was already brittle, but after a few gentle hammer taps, I managed to get the major ripple smoothed out. I used a small piece of sheet metal from a scrap piece of a fender for the seam patch. The key, as you mentioned, was prepping it properly before welding. I spent a lot of time just sanding down the edges to make the transition invisible. Because the original metal held its structural integrity underneath, the repair ended up looking much cleaner than I expected after the paint dried.

I know some people prefer simply bolting on a replacement, but if you're doing it right, the patch job is a huge money saver in the end. It takes patience, but I got that panel looking stock again without shelling out for a brand new part.

I found that when assessing the sheet metal for severe distortion, it is crucial to not only evaluate the visible ripple but also check the thickness and gauge of the original metal, especally around the internal ribs. Since you mentioned the metal was brittle, I always advise checking the surrounding areas for signs of metal fatigue or thin spots that might give way if you apply too much localized force when folding. Furthermore, even if you successfully smooth the crease, the way the metal has been strained can sometimes affect the spring back characteristics of the repair when it heats up in the sun. Do you find that surface tension plays any role in the final appearance after the primer application?

I had to deal with a small dent on a fender last year when restoring an old sedan. Even after getting the metal back into shape with a pull, the paint transition was still slightly off because the surrounding panels had settled differently. I found that using a light application of filler only around the patch edge made the fit much more seamless. Getting that paint to match is half the battle when you're stitching a repair into existing metal. I spent more time blending the clear coat than I did on the actual repair itself.

Update: tried the fold-out method on my door skin like the Buick guy described and the metal came back way better than I expected. Still fighting the paint though, same as the fender poster, the transition into the next panel sits a touch off. Did blending across the whole panel fix it for you, or did you have to feather the edge back further?