1992 saab conv 2.1

help please, I just put a new bosch fuel pressure regulator on my saab and the car seems like it is running rough. There ar no leaks and everything was connected right. any suggestions would be appreciated.

thanks papa

Reply to
PAPAGENE4JACK
Loading thread data ...

We need more information. Why did you replace the pressure regulator? Is it a different type or pressure rating? How was the car running before you did this? Did you change anything else while you were in there, and so on?

Dave Hinz

Reply to
Dave Hinz

Dave, thanks for the reply car has been running rough lately check engine light came on. I replaced the regulator because it could have been my problem. I started there because it was only 50.00 and I had 127 k on the original. I think My air mass meter is Really my pronblem. I dont know how to check it. I think its suppose to glow when the engine reaches normal temp. My meter does nothing so I will go in that direction next. Yorn next question might be why doesnt he just tske it to the dealer and read the codes. Sick of the large bills.

Reply to
PAPAGENE4JACK

OK,

Whoa, slow down a minute.

If you're in the USA, stop by your local Checker or Autozone parts store, they'll read the codes for you for free. Rough running could be a lot of things, and getting some solid data is the right approach, rather than throwing parts at it.

You can rule out the AMM by disconnecting the cable to it - does the car run better after you do? If it does, then the AMM is suspect. If it doesn't, I'd think more O2 sensor type ideas first. Or any of a number of other things. See what AutoZone or whomever can see for you. Obviously their motivation for reading the codes for you is that you'll buy the needed parts from them if they have them; it's a win-win. You get a diagnosis, they get a sale if they have the part in stock. If they don't, there's always thesaabsite.com for parts.

Dave Hinz

Reply to
Dave Hinz

Dave in answer to your question i repaced the fuel regulator with the exact same one that was in the car. Also I did not touch anything else, but I did take the car out for a drive and it has gone back to its original problem. So i guess it was not the regulator. car idles rough seems to smooth out at higher rpm s any more suggestions

thanks again papa

Reply to
PAPAGENE4JACK

Thanks dave but they can only read the codes on 1995 and higher under 95 we are at the mercy of the stealer (dealer) when you say disconnect the mass meter do you mean the wires or the unit that connects the air with the clamps.

thanks gene (papa)

Reply to
PAPAGENE4JACK

The electrical wires to the AMM. This will (should) put the car into "limp-home mode" which will run OK but not have the information from the AMM to adjust with.

And with all due respect, there are times when giving money to the dealer is better than randomly throwing parts at a car hoping one of them will help.

Dave Hinz

Reply to
Dave Hinz

Well Dave the dealer I deal with charges retail plus 20% for parts and

84.00 and hr. Oh and yes dave I did report them to saab for overcharging on parts to no avail. Every time I bring this car into the Dealer its a grand. Dont ask me why its always a grand. I just got sick of it. So now its just a car I like to tinker with, and keep away from the dealer . last month i need a starter so I called 2 dealers The stealer above wanted 685.oo to rplace the starter rebuit that is. 325.00 for the rebuit starter and 360.00 to install. Did it myself in an hr for 144.00 out the door best regard papa
Reply to
PAPAGENE4JACK

Plenty of online sources for parts, no reason to buy them retail +20%.

Well, OK, but you need to have a plan based on some sort of logic rather than "shotgunning" the repair. Is there a reason you don't think it's the O2 sensor, at that mileage?

On a 900? Yeah, 6 bills is too much.

Reply to
Dave Hinz

Yes I had the 02 sensor rplaced last week It was the original and it was way overdue. 127k I did talk to a saab tech at the dealership and without seeing the car he said his best guess was it sounded like the idle contol valve ,amm or fuel pressure valve. Which gets me back to why i chose to do the fuel pressure valve first. even if I replace all three of those items it wont come to dealer quote which was 450.00 amm 325.00 icv,and 113.00 fpv. plus 84.00 to code it and then labor another of 1 hr for each anyone will set me back the cost of me doing all 3. 175.00.amm rebuit 199.oo icv and 57.00fpv 400.00 total and ive replaced a lot of old parts that down the road will give me trouble. so i said to myself lets give it a shot if if none of those things work i will bring it to the dealer. thanks again dave for your help best regards gene

Reply to
PAPAGENE4JACK

Each of these have different symptoms. Can you describe "rough" more descriptively?

Reply to
Dave Hinz

OK when I say rough I mean at Idle. It Seems to smoth out at higher speeds. But, I can still feel the roughness. Electrical new plugs rotor wires and cap. I am told that the fiament in amm is suppose to have a glow to it. Also I did diconnet the wire to amm car would not run it just stalled out. thanks again gene

Reply to
PAPAGENE4JACK

What flavor and rating of plugs did you put in? If they're not NGKs, throw away the Bosch Platinums you put in, go to the dealer, and get the right plugs.

The AMM will only visibly glow right when the car is turned on, I think. So unless you've got really long arms or have a helper, you won't see it.

Any unusual colored smoke or residue in the tailpipe? How do the spark plugs look, black/oily, grey, brown, white?

Dave

Reply to
Dave Hinz

My understanding is that the AMM wire glows red hot just briefly, a few seconds after the car is turned off. This is for the purpose of cleaning (by vaporizing) off any crud that got on the wire in the course of driving. The Bentley manual specifies exactly how many seconds after the car is turned off this occurs (I remember it being less than 10 seconds), and also exactly how hot the wire gets (which I remember being amazingly hot). Sorry, don't have the manual on hand to check right now.

John

Reply to
John B

For a car that runs rough at idle, but smoothes out at speed, I would suspect a vacuum leak of some sort. If at speed you still feel rough or low power, I'd pull the plugs and see if one is misfiring. Occasionally the plug wires will ground or crossfire. Check this by pulling the plug cover off, starting the engine at night and looking for fireworks. Similarly pull the distributor cap and rotor, throw them away and put new stuff in. Is the idle control valve working correctly? Did you use a SAAB O2 sensor? I've not had real good luck using other than oem parts for those. Usually for an O2 sensor a good brushing will get them working again. If you must check the AMM: The book says pull the hose off the front of the AMM. Run engine to operating temperature. Rev engine to 2500 rpm and shut engine off. The AMM wire should glow for about 1 second. If you pull the AMM connector and the engine dies, the AMM is probably good. Keep in mind that if you got a bad tank of gas and sucked some water up into the injectors it will take some time for that stuff to work out.

dave

Reply to
dave

OK thank you John, dave,and dave thanks to you guys i have ruled out the amm,its working fine. Now i have new plugs nkg of course new rotor new wires new cap new o2 sensor and new fuel pressure regulator. There is only one other thing that can make rough idle. and i think you guys are right on the idle control valve . I will try that next.

thanks again guys ill keep you informed gene

Reply to
PAPAGENE4JACK

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.