Hey, I'm trying to change out the rear pads on my 91 9000 and can't get the cylinder depressed with my trusty "C" clamp. Is there a secret to this?
Also, my turbo suddenly quit on me the other day. The needle still moves slightly (and the APC fuse is intact) but there's no power. Any quick check ideas?
Thanks!
Dan
Look at the back of the caliper - is there a 13mm bolt-looking thing? If so (I think the '91 has it), remove that plug (it's just screwed in). Behind it is a hex-head screw that I believe you need a 5mm allen wrench to turn; use that to back off the caliper/pads.
Sounds like an air leak. Check the pressure side of the turbo to the intake manifold; start at the turbo (cold side); that hose clamp has been known to self-loosen.
Dave Hinz
Dave,
Thanks! It was as you said with the brakes. I didn't have time to thoroughly check for an air leak, but a cursory check didn't turn anything up except my PCV is a bit loose.
Dan
I don't think "a bit loose" would give you power loss. Another reason for boost loss would be that something is physically rattling in the engine compartment, making the APC system think that there is engine knock, so it backs down the boost. But check the big air ducts first.
Glad to hear the brakes are as I expected and that it helped.
Best, Dave Hinz
In article , snipped-for-privacy@spamcop.net spouted forth into alt.autos.saab...
Or if the infamous wastegate rod C clip has decayed and the rod has fallen off.
It would go to the point where it should make boost, but go no further.
Okay, my APC needle moves exactly to the point you describe, almost as if it wants to go into turbo, but can't. Can you give me a bit more description on this infamous wastegate rod C clip? I'd appreciate it.
Dan
Dave,
You'll please pardon my ignorance, but as I face the car from the front bumper, which would be the cold side of the turbo? And which would be the pressure side? Thanks, Dan
It's pretty simple, I guess. The fronts don't have the emergency brake feature that the backs do. That is what the screw on the back ones accomodates. The fronts have hydraulic actuation only, so you nbeed to push them back with the beloved "big C-clamp".
-Fred W
In article , dmckean2 @columbus.rr.com spouted forth into alt.autos.saab...
Might be easier to see underneith the front of the car on a 9000, but if you can locate the wastegate actuator, there is a long thin threaded rod that slips onto a small arm on the turbo body shell underneath the turbo body. Not sure of the exact layout, as I've only ever owned Ca 900
Have a google for the 9000 turbo system, if you can find it, the Townsend Saab Master site is good, and has illustrations.
When the rod comes of, it literally slips off the small arm. Just needs to be relocated to test it, but can fall off again, as it needs a new Circlip/E clip (e-clips are easier to fit) and ideally an R clip through the small hole in the arm (like the pin on the the brake calipers).
That's the side where it doesn't suck!
Okay, I'm feeling really dumb here, but now that the brakes are done, my emergency brake doesn't work anymore. I'm sure it's just an adjustment, but how to do it??? That is really the question, is it not?
Dan
"Fred W." wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@adelphia.com...
The same allen (hex) screw adjustment that you used to retract the caliper piston should be adjusted this way: With teh emergency brake lever released, turn the allen screw in until it starts to feel tight (don't need to crank down on it) and you feel the brake shoes are clamping on the disks (can't turn the wheel). Then back off 1/2 to 3/4ths of a turn. Do this on both sides. The hand brake will auto adjust as the brake pads wear (and presumably will eventually adjust itself "in" from all the way backed out) so the initial adjustment is a "ballpark" adjustment to get it into range initially.
-Fred W
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