Key Will Not Come Out of Ignition

First, apply gentle pressure to the key to turn it in the proper direction. Next, turn the steering wheel as far as you can in one direction, then as far as you can in the other direction. At some point in that travel, you'll be able to lock the column and withdraw the key.

Not sure if this is applicable to your car, but if it has an automatic transmission, be sure that it is in park. Otherwise the key can not be turned to the lock position. Oppie

This is true and there is also the chance that cylinder is worn out too.

----------------- TheSnoMan.com

I was going on the (possibly mistaken) assumption that the key could still be turned to run and start, just not to the lock position. If that were the case, the cylinder should not be the culprit. The park interlock system then seemed reasonable to suspect.

I replace the cylinder in a Saturn once that would nt lock properly at time and release key. When cylinder was replace, the problem never returned. That may not be case here but it was for me.

----------------- TheSnoMan.com

Can't argue with that. Nothing succeeds like success.

it's a standard shift

My '92 did the same thing several years ago. I couldn't get the key out, the tumbler wouldn't turn in any direction. It was locked into accessory postition and I was about 10 miles from home. I went into the store and bought some WD40 and tried everything I knew. Finally I had it towed home. I went to Saturn, got a new tumbler keyed to my old one. It took me about 2 hours to change it out. There are 3 screws in the column that must be drilled out to gain access.

aging Saturn S series cars. I am sure I will do it again someday if I keep the car long enough.

James

OK then, was there anything you had to push in order to allow turning the key to lock the steering column? I've seen that on many cars with manual transmissions. If there is none, then Snoman's suggestion that the cylinder should be replaced seems like the next step.

I tried that but it didn't work. The key stopped turning altogether. Too late I realized the key was stuck in Accesory position which drained the battery. It get much worse no tow truck company would come to tow the car because it was in a commerical garage w/ 7' ceilings and a tight corkscrew shaped exit ramp. . Finally GIECO located a towing company w/ a small tow truck w/ wheel lift which got the car out in

then they called back stating the cylinder was stuck in the "tunnel" and I had to buy a new "tunnel" for $105.00 the they called again stating thwe battery won't hold a charge and they'll put in a 5year 750 amp battery for $80.00 $20.00 installation. Bottom line $490.00

Ouch! That is one reason why I started doing all the repair work that I could handle. My basic philosophy was to get an estimate on any repair job, do the job myself and spend the difference on tools (as required). Built up a good inventory of tools over the years.

Years ago, I had a Ford wagon that the ignition cylinder jammed while out in the boonies. Luckily I had the tool box with me. Found the cylinder was a loss so pulled the steering wheel but couldn't remove the cylinder without getting it to rotate to the unlock position. Since the column lock was against the steering wheel instead of the shaft, I just cut the pushrod between the lock and the actual switch (easy to repair later with a sleeve). Was able to reach in and push the rod to start the car and drove home sans steering wheel - with a vise grip on the steering shaft. Next morning, had to drill out the cylinder. Got a new cylinder and stopped by a locksmith on the way home to get it re-keyed to match the OEM locks. Annoying and a bit involved but all worked out well.

I hear you but it's the auto I have and I needed to get out of that rental car.

My 1994 Saturn SC2 key is often hard to remove from the ignition. Whenever it won't come out readily, I have been able to get it out by pushing the key in and turning clockwise again, as if I were starting the car. Then while pressing the key into the lock the whole time, I can turn it back counter clockwise to off and pull it out in one motion. I also have to make sure that the steering wheel is positioned correctly too. It's kind of a "feel" thing that I had to practice. I first got the car for my son, and he figured it out. When I started driving the car, he had to show me how to do it.

--Roger

James1549 wrote:

For what it's worth... When things start to stick, don't use WD-40. It leaves practically no lubricating film after it evaporates. Not bad though for flushing out if there is debris. I prefer to use a drop or two of Dexron ATF for lube. It will never gum like motor oil and leaves behind a long lasting lubricating film. If you want less film, mix 50/50 with kerosene. The kero evaporates after it helps the atf creep into smaller spots. You will have to wipe off your key before putting it in your pocket for a while but it does work nicely! Oppie

Wish I could've done that.

Wow, that is really high for the cylinder.

A year ago while in a junkyard getting the plastic covers that go over the lock, I grabbed the cylinder with the key for a couple of bucks. It saved me last summer when the cylinder that I had re-keyed by a locksmith screwed up. I was able to pop it out, put in my junkyard one and get going in just a few minutes. Turns out the locksmith had done something wrong, she fixed it and I was swapped the cylinders a few days later.

The reason that I had the cylinder re-keyed, along with the doors and trunk is because I have two Saturns in the family and they both use the same key now.

-David

It didn't even need to be aging. My 96SL2 gave me that problem in the first year and a half, and then another episode a couple of years later. The first time they had the car four days waiting for a part. The new tumbler was a redesigned model which didn't grip the key so tightly. Both times they repaired it on warranty. It's been around 7 or 8 years since I've had a problem with it. I suppose it's so worn by now it's not likely to happen again.