should I keep it?

It's a '96 SL2, white with tan, exceptional condition, 89,250 miles, needs struts and motor mounts(I think-where's the cheapest place to buy 'em?), tires are good but starting to dry rot. Interior is perfect, exterior has a few paint gouges. Rear windows have issues and need something(?) Non-smoker, non-pets, non-children. AC works great. It runs, drives, shifts, stops, all REAL good(I never knew these things were so peppy!) If only I wasn't sitting on the ground while driving. Hard to get used to when you've driven nothing but full-size pickup trucks for the last 21 years.

My dad bought it from a man who was using it as a toad(tow'd?) behind a motorhome, and my dad pulled it behind his for maybe a couple dozen times. He just bought a new Honda CR-V for that and wants me to either sell it for him or keep it. I'm really leaning towards keeping it due to gas prices but my two prior back surgeries make me pay every time I have to climb up out of it. I got a fix for that-a 2004 Silverado-but it only gets 16 mpg, even whilst driving it like a great-grandmother. Good on the back but hard on the wallet.

So, whaddya think-sell it or keep it? Anything I should go ahead and look at to help me decide? What sort of future issues should I expect? Do these cars usually bring close to KBB prices? Do I always ask so many questions? (no)

Thanks for any input, Snuffy

Reply to
Snuffy Smiff
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If you're lucky, you just need the top motor mount, which is probably up to $90 or so from a dealer. I don't know of any place other than a Saturn dealer to get those.

There are also two lower motor mounts ("dogbone" types) that are a bit cheaper. But these don't wear out so quickly.

There's a lot of low-end torque, great for getting around town, in that engine.

Look at replacing the serpentine belt and coolant hoses too if they're original. Also common wear items around the serpentine belt are the idler pulley and tensioner, if those haven't ever been replaced you might want to just do them.

Trouble going up and down (regulator) or leaking (door frame rust)?

Tim.

Reply to
shoppa

I just replaced the top motor mount (Torque Axis Mount) on a '96 SL. It was about $75 total after taxes for the part. Our vehicle already had the correct stem bolts, but I understand some may need to purchase these as well so the cost may be higher. Replacement was pretty simple and took no more than 5 minutes. The key is having a jack and block of wood or old telephone book to support the engine at the oil pan during the procedure.

BTW, I had also priced the lower motor and transmission mounts at the same time. I believe the motor side was about $70 and the transmission side was in the middle 50's. Neither needed replacement on our vehicle, but at the time I had not removed the plastic fender splash shields to take a look so priced them to know in advance.

Bob

Reply to
Bob Shuman

Just reminded me of a question I've always had about tow cars... First, how would consider mileage? Yes the car has 80K on it, but the engine doesn't, right? I know about wear & tear, but it's gotta be a PITA keeping track of vehicle and then engine mileage...Second, I just was wondering about people's thoughts on tow cars. On a motor home, wouldn't you rather trailer the car instead of towing it with tow bars? What if something happened on the tow car, like say a bearing started to go or you accidentally left the hand brake on or the car in gear? You could do a lot of damage before you realize it. Just curious if anyone one here has towed like that and if there were special set-ups for the tow car to prevent/warn on damage or problems....

Scott

Reply to
Scott MacIntyre

No brainer, keep it.

Repairs will cost about 1 car payment, or you can buy a new car and make 12 payments a year....

Reply to
Mike

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