1960 259 V8 hesitates

I am going to keep an eye on this thread because I've had the same problem with my '64 289 cruiser since 1988. Others have owned the car and did some of the same things that were mentioned, but to no avail. Someone suggested that perhaps it had something to do with the cam. Not sure how that is, but perhaps someone in this thread will shed some light on that explanation.

Did you happen to change the coil? jimmijim

Had the same problem with my Avanti - with a new carb on it I could have sworn was perfect. Looked down the barrels and moved the throttle several times and noticed the accelerator pump didn't start pumping until about halfway into it's stroke. That was the problem, rebuilt the carb and it works fine. Do a visual inspection, it should pump immediately.

Chick wrote:

I had a new coil sitting on the bench so I plugged it in without removing the old one and it still hesitated. Today I'm going to swap out the Delco distributor with an Autolite with dual points that I have sitting on the shelf for my R2 Superhawk and see if that makes any difference I think it should fit ok.

So you have the same problem, I have to get to the bottom of this, today I'm going to swap out the Delco distributor for an Autolite with dual points that I have sitting on the shelf for my R2 Superhawk and see if that makes any difference. I wonder if the vacumn advance is working properly on on the Delco unit. If so the other distributor that is a known good one may shed some light on it. Thanks, Chick

check vacuum with a vacuum gauge and see where you are at idle and if stumble occurs with throttle opening. I had an old Quadrajet that ate me up until I found that the throttle plate shafts had excessive clearance and needed to be rebushed. also a overabundance of fuel from accelerator pump can cause same issue.

Chick, that's the classic symptom of a bad vacuum advance unit on the distributor, or else a bad leak in the vacuum line feeding it. Check it out before delving into stuff that's harder to reach and more expensive.

Gord Richmond

Vacuum leak in:

The carb, vacuum advance and/or fuel line.

At some point, a carb just cannot be rebuilt anymore and I have several that stand testimony to this.

A cranky advance mechanism will drive you nutz as well.

Oh, try raising the float level, that's a common fault. I had an old VW that had the same symptoms and finally, adusting the loat fixed it (after several years of complaining).

JT

Chick wrote:

Good point Calvin... These carbs are old and getting tired.

JT

I don't want to hijack this thread, but it sure is good to see jimmijim back on the NG. We were all thinking about you at York, Jim. We hope that the recovery is progressing well!

Jim Bradley

'64 Daytona HT ?Rerun? snipped-for-privacy@earthlink.net Remove HAT to reply

snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

Old and tired carbs..just like us..and our cars.. I have found that as the two barrels (and the fours, too!) get older and more worn out the linkages are getting quite sloppy. First order is to watch the accelerator plunger carefully as you open the throttle and make sure that it travels RIGHT AWAY along with the throttle plates. I have had to bend and "adjust" (in various ways) the accelerator pump linkage to get it just right on EVERY SINGLE TWO BARREL STROMBERG I HAVE EVER DONE. One of the reasons for that is that many have sat for a while and corrosion develops in the lower part of the pump well...when the pump likage tries to push the pump down it hangs and bends the linkage. A good "hone" of the bore usually fixes that problem. Same thing happens when the pump is gummed up and someone opens the throttle. During the "rebuild" the bent linkages get forgotten about. Some of the time it is because the linkage holes get sloppy (or "wallered out" as we say in the south) (take it away, Calvin!). Sometimes they have to be welded up and re drilled or just "crimped" to tighten them up. Another thing I see often is the pivot for the flat bar of the accelerator pump linkage binding where the left handed screw holds it to the carb top. Several rebuilds result in the slight recessing of the metal and when the screw is tightened it binds the linkage. A few swipes with a flat file on the carb top fixes THAT problem. I have also seen carbs with rigged screws 'cause some pinehead has busted the correct one off trying to remove it the wrong way.. Also make sure that the check balls are working properly and in place. Also make sure the passageways are clear, and that includes the little "squirter" As was said, look for a healthy squirt of fuel RIGHT AS THE THROTTLE OPENS. This can be done a lot easier on the bench with the carb filled with mineral spirits, kerosene, or gas as a last resort. Use four "stubby" screwdrivers through the mounting holes of the carb base to raise the carb up off the bench so you can work the throttle. Hope some of this helps, Studebaker George

Dang, I just skipped right over that post without noticing who wrote it. Welcome back Jim and it is good to see you online again. Missed you yesterday although your nice dashes would have gotten all wet outside anyway.

nate

Jim Bradley wrote:

well you do know why humans have 5 different sized fingers right? nature's shim stock for "wallered" out holes .

I went through hell troubleshooting a similar problem with a 63 Lark 259. Even had one mechanic remove the camshaft and pronounce it flat. Finally a friend took a look at the points and wondered where the tension spring was. Installed new points with tensioner, and everything cured itself. The funny thing is the car's points were incorrect when I bought it and it ran crappy. When I replaced the points, I left the spring out, just like the old ones. It ran ok at low rpm, but not at higher rpm, I guess the points were "floating" without the spring. Felt kinda stupid, but that's how you learn. My Studebaker friend noticed the problem right away. Hope this helps.

Dave