Slip yoke for 4-speed

OOoooohhh, very sly - when he comes to get it you can get some work out of him.....

John Poulos wrote:

You can borrow mine.

Nate Nagel wrote:

Right, I'm trying to determine if I can just buy a new one or if it's ludicrously expensive. I'd need the spline count, length, and u-joint type... I have a Precision brand part number for the U-joint but I don't know how to cross that to the "spicer series" (1310, 1330, 1350 etc.) that the driveshaft guys refer to.

nate

Grumpy AuC> If the shaft fabricator is anything like those here, they want the

If the shaft fabricator is anything like those here, they want the actual slip yoke to incorporate into the product.

JT

John Poulos wrote:

No, he's waited until the Caddy truck was driving, now he can come over.

Pat Drnec wrote:

Actually I am probably going to go over to this Porsche shop tomorrow and try to diplomatically bust some cojones... I have a nasty suspicion they haven't looked at my car yet :(

Why do good mechanics seem to universally have some kind of artistic temperament?

nate

John Poulos wrote:

OK, after having nothing better to do on a friday evening than search the web and my hard drive for driveshaft info...

I want a shaft, as small in diameter as the mfgr. is willing to make it,

This would be for a Stude T-10 to a D44 in a '55 C-body.

nate

Nate Nagel wrote:

Alex,

this is for my coupe, I have in it a '61 or '62 driveshaft and it is fine. The problem is that it is too large in diameter.

nate

Alex Magdaleno wrote:

Where does it hit? That driveshaft should work.If it just hits a little when bottoming out that should not be a problem. On my last 54 Stude which had a Chevy with a Muncie and a one piece driveshaft, I could see rub marks where it hit from time to time in the area where the center u-joint used to be. It never caused a problem though.

Ya gotta remember that the later coupe's tunnels were changed to accommodate the single piece driveshaft..

JT

Not sure I understand why, I have a T-10 behind a 289 in my 54 Coupe with a one piece driveshaft, it's close but doesn't hit anything. Maybe your rear springs are shot and you need to pick up the back end a little?

Nate Nagel wrote:

It hits the ends of the screws that mount the rear armrest, but it is quite close to the "corners" of the tunnel the whole length. I'm sure if I removed the armrest it would just hit somewhere else, it "crunches" going over speed bumps and under medium acceleration. It doesn't appear that the floor will allow the stock 4-speed driveshaft to go up into the tunnel as it is 3-1/2" in diameter and the tunnel just ain't much bigger (and the shaft is slightly off-center as well.) I'd feel better just having a 3" or smaller shaft made and being done with it.

nate

Alex Magdaleno wrote:

yes, I know, but I think having a shaft made would be easier than welding in a late center floor section...

nate

Nope, brand new HD springs, but I should have just saved my $$ they only picked the back end up maybe 1/2" or so. I am guessing that a PO had already replaced them because the fronts are clearly HD coils and in good shape. I don't really want to raise it up, if anything it needs to be lower :)

nate

Pat Drnec wrote:

Where did you get the HD springs? I am assuming that the springs are the same for sedans and coupes.

JT

Nate Nagel wrote:

JP ordered them for me, I think he just got them from SASCO the last time they had them (this was when I first got the car)

nate

Grumpy AuC> Where did you get the HD springs? I am assuming that the springs are