CV Joint/Axle Replacement on Honda

$40? I assume for that cost he just used one of the universal boots, relubed the CV joint and that was it? I can't imagine he replaced the joint or the axle for that cost. I have done this on a '96 accord and it was a fairly simple DIY job. I planned on keeping the car so I bought replacement drive axles from Napa. I only remember needing a large socket (32mm?? Don't quote me on the size) to get the spindle nut off and a large crowbar (don't pry on the trans case. I put the crowbar in between the axle and the trans case, then hit it with a hammer) to pop the axle from the transmission. IIRC, it only took about 4 hours to do both sides and cost ~$180.

hth

Sorry, I should've clarified....I bought the axles, 59.99 ea. at Advance Auto (+ 30.00 core ea.) and he installed them for 40.00 per side. But remember, he had a lift and I don't, so I'll be doing this out in my driveway on stands. I doubt I'll have them done in under 1 hour per side...I agree with Genius, It'll most likely take a better part of the day... So it sounds pretty straightforward. I'll be giving it a try this coming weekend. By the way, is there any danger in driving the car when its making that noise up front? Thanks again~ Doc

The Doctor wrote in news:ab94cd76-59be-4a46-a74e- snipped-for-privacy@g11g2000yqe.googlegroups.com:

1) Your guy might have taken only 20 minutes, but I can guarantee you--in spades--that you will NOT take that few minutes to do the same job. Your guy had the benefit of much experience, which counts for an enormous amount with this sort of thing. For you, it may take the better part of a day. 2) If you do not have the right tools, you WILL make an expensive and frustrating mess of the job. 3) Depending on what side you're replacing, you may need to drain the transaxle. Forget this step, and prepare for a BIG mess on your driveway. 4) If you don't have an air compressor, rent a DeWalt electric impact wrench from an industrial supply house. Otherwise you'll find the axle nut to be just about impossible to remove. 5) Get a good torque wrench. Your NEW axle nut (do not re-use the old one) needs to be tightened to "something like" 180 ft/lbs. I THINK the knuckle balljoint is 40 ft/lbs and the tie-rod-end is 32 ft/lbs, but you need to check that. 6) Get a proper balljoint separator. NOT a "pickle fork". Otherwise you'll find the balljoints to be just about impossible to separate. And you MUST put the balljoint nut back upside-down on the stud before using the tool, otherwise you'll collapse the stud and wreck it. 7) The set-ring on the inner joint splines can be well-and-truly difficult to pop free from the diff/center bearing. If you're lucky, the set-ring will let go just by pushing on the pry-bar with your hand. If you're unlucky, it will take a sharp blow with your foot on the pry-bar to pop the set-ring free. 8) If you've never done this before, there's a good possibility you'll pull the inner joint apart while trying to get it all back together again. If that happens, you'll need to take the inner joint apart in order to feed the tripod past the boot, which may mean new bands, depending on the type used on your new shaft. 9) Aftermarket shafts will come compressed for shipping. You need to remove the outer or inner band for the inner joint boot and let some air in so the shaft is at the correct finished length. Failure to do this will result in the inner joint boot puckering for lack of air once installed. It will then break within a few thousand miles. 10) Get a band-tightening tool, such as a KD-Tools 3191. You will need it. You can use the cheapo Harbor Freight ones, but you'll find them a lot harder to work with.

Still up to this?

The Doctor wrote in news:c561137d-09fb-41aa-a893- snipped-for-privacy@g10g2000yqh.googlegroups.com:

Better read my other post first...

You mean the crunk-crunk-crunk when going around tight turns? Nope. No danger at all. It's really loud and annoying, but it'll go forever like that.

Tegger wrote in news:Xns9D39C95BA6886tegger@208.90.168.18:

That axle nut is 32mm, I think. Bet you don't have that size socket in your toolbox.

Wow, thanks Tegger-what a wake up call. You stated it all pretty clearly, which s exactly what I was looking for! You know, if this car wasn't in use daily and I could afford to have it 'down' for more than a few days, I'd probably be up to the job. You explained all the caveats pretty well, and if I paid attention to them I'm pretty certain I could do it. But, and its a big but, I need this every day for work, so there goes that theory. As long as its not a safety issue, I'll let it ride for a few more months when the weather gets better (I'm in the Northeast) I'll tackle it. As afr as the tools go, i have air, an impact, no b/j seperater just a pickle fork, no band-clamping tool or even a 32mm socket! (Glad I didn't bet on that one) So, in conclusion, I'll just deal with the sound for a little while longer...thanks again for all the info~ Doc

Okay, here is hint number one: Stop getting cheap rebuilds from Advance Auto and you won't have to be replacing them anywhere near as often.

It's a pain to do on jackstands, but it can be a lot worse on some other cars than on yours. GET A SPOTTER to watch you so if something happens they can call for help. It will take some leverage to get the things out.

If you're sure it's the joint, not all that much, but be aware that it could break at any moment. Watch the road for places to pull off in case it does.

--scott

I think you're right.

However, I will put in a good word for some of the current crop of cheap electric impact wrenches, including the Craftsman. They aren't much more expensive than renting an industrial grade one, and they are just the handiest things to have around. I don't have shop air at home, so the electric impact wrench has just been very handy.

Yeah... I agree the original poster is in for some serious expense and some serious time... but money spent on tools is never wasted especially when they are general purpose gadgets like the impact wrench. And the time is just part of learning.

I've also been able to do the Mitsubishis with just a pickle fork and it wasn't all THAT bad. It took some prybars and profanity, though.

--scott

snipped-for-privacy@panix.com (Scott Dorsey) wrote in news:hnes3l$e86$ snipped-for-privacy@panix2.panix.com:

I have a DeWalt DW-293. It's been fantastically effective on every bolt I've ever tried it on. Crank bolts, suspension, axle nuts, you name it.

The Honda balljoint is constructed in such a way that you will tear the boot if you use a pickle fork.

THIS is what you need:

And depending on the size of your balljoint, you may need to open up the jaws a bit with a grinder.

There are cheaper versions available than the one from OTC. I own the OTC version.

It's been my experience that the rebuilt axles last longer than the ones from the factory, but YMMV.

What happens out here in the desert is the rubber cracks and as soon as a little bit of grease is able to sling out through that opening, the rest of the boot is history in no time. The rebuilt axles I've gotten have always outlasted the originals because the boots seem to hold up better..

Chris

Or try the $19.99 tool from Harbor Freight:

Every product I have ever bought from Harbor Freight has broken in such a way that I got injured. I don't like getting injured.

--scott

Not sure which applies -

a) It is a poor workman who blames his tools. b) The bitterness of low quality remains long after the sweetness of low cost is gone.. c) You get what you pay for.

In defence of Harbor Freight - the small angle grinder I bought from them works great. The cheap wrenches last as long as Craftsman wrenches and cost a lot less to replace when I lose them out in a field. The cheap paint gun did the job and was cheap enought to throw away when the project was done (painting a tractor - it is only important if it looks good from 100 yards away).

My best advice is to know your applciation and yourself and buy accordingly.

Ed