Fixing rear-window defroster - HOW????

You know the kind... Lots of little lines on the glass, with, somewhere on each end of the window, a connection for power.

One of my connectors came off the glass (it was like that when I got the car) so today, I decided I was going to fix it. Obviously, it must be metallic, and it sure looks a lot like it was soldered on. So I broke out the soldering iron, and went to work. No biggie - just a quick dab of solder, and I'm good to go, right?

NOT!

After a MAJOR struggle to get the solder to stick, I finally got the beast re-attached, and was around the corner in the shop getting my "toys" put away, when I heard a sort of dull thump noise, followed by the sounds of many hard, tiny pieces of something falling on/near the car, as well as sounding like some of it/them may have been rattling down the trunk lid. Didn't think it was the pea-=sized hail that was falling, since the car was pulled up under the shed to keep the soggy off as I worked, but couldn't figure out what it could actually be, so I finished getting stuff put away.

When I got done, I went around the corner to pull the car out into its usual parking spot, and found my rear window *GONE* - just a pile of safety-glass crumbles on the back deck, seat, trunk lid, and some on the ground. Awww, hell! Obviously, I got the glass too hot, and as it cooled, it stressed and broke. That thoroughly sucks. But nothing to be done for it now. Fortunately, I've got a replacement rear window from the wreck back in May (Factory original, so unless the body is tweaked, no hassles about putting it in the one that runs), so tomorrow (deluge permitting...) I'm going to take it down to the glass shop and have them put it in.

Meanwhile, the replacement window has the exact same problem: The little connector widget (more or less like a spade connector) is no longer attached to the glass. I'm beginning to wonder if this wasn't a problem for this model ('82 Mazda 626) since I'm two for two with 'em.

So, before I go breaking another window, does anybody know an effective method for reattaching the little connector that DOESN'T include having to heat the darn thing? Is it at all possible, or am I out of luck?

I'm almost inclined to think that a variation on spot-welding was used to attach it in the first place - perhaps the connector was tinned with a thick layer of solder, then "arced" onto the connector pad? Or maybe I'm hopelessly off base? Regardless, I'd REALLY like to have my rear defroster functional again, preferably without having to buy a whole new window to do it. Especially when all that's actually needed is a way to reattach the terminal so the wire has someplace to connect.

First smart-aleck to say "super-glue" gets the wires attached to his 'nads and the juice turned on! :)

Reply to
Don Bruder
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[snip tale of woe]

I believe it is Permatex that makes a kit to reattach the connector, I've used it, and it works. If I remember right it is a conductive epoxy.

Yep:

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Reply to
Mark Olson

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So - you're taking it to a pro for the install. They hook those things up all the time. And it is some kind of glue.

Reply to
George

Beautiful. Too bad I didn't know about this stuff yesterday...

Found out that it's gonna cost me $120 *JUST TO PUT THE GLASS IN THE CAR*, fergawdsake! I bought a new windshield for the same car, had it installed, and walked out the door for only 50 bucks more than that!

Jeezus... talk about highway robbery...

Reply to
Don Bruder

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If it's not a glued-in window, you can do it yourself with some cord (I actually like to use small - like 16 or 18 gauge - THHN wire, the insulation is real slick) and some soapy water. A helper is a bonus but not 100% necessary. Also gives you a chance to touch up any rust that may be starting under the lip, the glass shop may not bother. I did this maybe a year and a half ago on an old VW, needed a new windshield, I busted the old one out and POR-15'd the lip, then had the glass guy come and put the new one it (it was glued in.) I did the hatch glass myself with no problems. I've also successfully installed windshields in several old cars. Only one that I had trouble with was my '62 Studebaker (severe wraparound, cracked on the "corners" a couple weeks after install.)

good luck

nate

Reply to
Nate Nagel

He is batting 1000. Let him take it to a profesional before he screws it up. Also let the pro fix the connector. Anybody that would take a soldering iron to a piece of tempered glass--- well---

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Reply to
BillW

Thanks, bub... I've already been beating myself up over this fiasco - it's not like I need somebody else with delusions of perfection helping...

And for the record, I have successfully soldered on glass prior to this. More times than I can remember. Apparently, I either got lucky (though I doubt that's the case, since I've had no problems in the past) or the job was simple enough (material that would take solder fairly easily instead of seemingly fighting to resist it) that I didn't have the excessive heat exposure that happened this time. As mentioned, I had the devil's own time getting the terminal to "stick", which almost certainly took me past the "quick finish" that I already know quite well is needed when dealing with glass (tempered or not) in combination with heat.

So do me, and everybody else, a favor: Take your condesending attitude and stuff it. Crosswise.

Reply to
Don Bruder

I have also used Permatex Rear Window Defogger Repair Kit (item#

15067) to repair a Pioneer amplifier remote control. It can be put on the underneath of the buttons, when the metallic coating wears off after a couple of years. It works well. Only problem is that it here it costs about US$13000 per litre. Just as well it's sold in 1.4ml bottles.
Reply to
oldfamiliar

I've used silver and copper bearing conductive epoxy to repair both the grids and the !#%!@#$ attach point for the connector. Copper seems to work a bit better.

Reply to
Lon Stowell

Excellent idea! I have been supergluing tiny bits of sanded down beer cans to the buttons on my remotes.

Reply to
Paul

The carbon impregated keypads to make the connection are not a durable design at all. But it's generally cheaper than a mylar with popple domes.

Reply to
Brent P

I was glueing aluminium foil squares under the buttons, but they kept falling off. Then the loose foil shorted out several contacts and confused the amplifier that it would keep winding the volume up to maximum. You've never seen anyone get out of a chair so fast. Once the amplifier started winding up the volume it wouldn't stop even when the remote was hidden or with the batteries removed.

Reply to
oldfamiliar

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