Thanks for weighing in, Bob. The Starter issue, I've debunked. I'm not getting power to the ignition wi re to the middle post of the solenoid. And, cleaning the battery terminals was done early on in the process. All connections have been cleaned with contact cleaner, and a brush. Something is interfering with power to the * ignition* post on the solenoid. So, wacking on the starter is a non-issue.
Not sure how to troubleshoot, disable, the PATS.
Looks like the switch activated by the key cylinder is next.
The actual ignition switch is mounted on the steering column up under the dash. Looks like this.
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I have seen a few with bad terminals on the connector block that would cause no start.
One way to see if it is switch or rack would be to manually push the switch while rotating the key. From your desc. it sounds like a bad contact that shifts just enough to make connection and start.
Start colors on the switch are light green with a violet stripe and red with a light blue stripe.
If you think it is the PATS there is an easy way to find out. Find the starter relay terminal # 85. Run a jumper from that terminal to ground and that bypasses the PATS system on the starting side. (term 85 is the ground for the relay. with PATS the module provides the ground, without it that terminal goes directly to ground 104.)
Ohhh - I thought you were talking about the piece of plastic that pushes do wn from the ignition key switch cylinder. Yes, actually, I've replaced tha t ignition switch block about two weeks ago. The original was clean, clean , but I had already tried it out, so I couldn't return it.
Thanks Steve. OK - I will take a look at the wires you've indicated and se e what/where the wire ends look like. They're all tucked up in the loom, s o my weekend will involve sharp instruments, it looks like. Ouch! ;o)
Appreciate the information on bypassing PATS. I know exactly where you are talking about. Will try to get to it before the weekend though, and repor t my findings.
e know what pin(holes) to jump to do that? Or how to find it out?
Status Update - Yesterday, I replaced the NSS (under warranty from Schucks/ O'Reilly's), and *yesterday*, I gave it the typical 5 min. after I'd run it hard in the hot sun. Got in, turned the key and it started right up. I n eed to test it a few more days before I sign off on it.
one know what pin(holes) to jump to do that? Or how to find it out?
s/O'Reilly's), and *yesterday*, I gave it the typical 5 min. after I'd run it hard in the hot sun. Got in, turned the key and it started right up. I need to test it a few more days before I sign off on it.
After 2 days of reliable starting, I couldn't start the car again.
On Saturday, 7/13/13, I cut out a Clifford alarm that was installed in the car before I bought it. It was an Immobilizer. Today, was the first full day that I've run the car w/o the alarm, and it hasn't failed. I believe t he problem was the Immobilizer. The reason I didn't use it was that it had problems disarming. I don't know how long it was after the time that I st opped using it and the problem with it starting up began to occur. I would say a couple of years. I got the car in 2007, I believe. It took less th an an hour to cut it out, and splice together the original wiring. I used quick splices. Again - so far - so good. I'm keeping my fingers crossed. If I don't post in this group again, that will confirm that the Clifford Au to Immobilizer was the problem the whole time!!! AAAAAGGGHHH!
not be able to start it. I turn the key, all dash lights are on - no crank , no start, nothing. I hear the fuel pump charge, but that's it. I've had this problem for a few years now, and have been living with it, but now its getting worse.
e. Replaced the neutral safety switch (transmission range sensor, etc.), bu t now I'm wondering if that NSS was bad? Tried starting in other gears (it actually has the same symptoms as trying to start in other gears). Starting in neutral is the same problem. Turn the key, and nothing. The NSS is tigh t, and like I said, will start fine, cold.
e solenoid's primary power post - no juice when the car is acting up.
eople talk of an immobilizer, and the vehicle theft system, but I don't kno w the symptoms of those devices. Would they cause the engine *not* to crank ?
lever (column shift), and release it while the key is turned to START posi tion. I may have to do it 10 or even 20 times, but eventually it starts. I found this out by trial and error.
e know what pin(holes) to jump to do that? Or how to find it out?
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