"Paul Hovnanian P.E." wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@hovnanian.com:
OK, another idea...
Have you made 100% certain the wheel/hub interface is 100% clear of corrosion, dirt and grease, so that the two faces may meet and adhere without relative radial movement?
Radial movement will subject the studs to side-loading that may cause them to fracture.
Try sanding and wiping the dust and corrosion off both faces before bolting the wheel to the hub.
Thanks for the torque wrench calibration tips, Steve W.Now I know how to check mine out.Mostly, I use my Sears clicker torque wrench, which is very infrequently when a torque wrench is called for.When I tighten up the lug nuts on my vehicles, I use a four way wrench and I pull up while I put considerable foot pressure on the other end of the wrench.That has always worked ok for me.Some fancy vehicles I have read about though, state that a torque wrench is required to properly tighten the lug nuts.I don't own anything that fancy/expensive though. cuhulin
Foot pressure??? I can realiably shear a wheel stud off with one hand and a 24" bar if it sticks.
I keep a long cheater pipe in my van just in case I can't loosen up those lug nuts the tire shops put on there too tight with their air impact wrenches. cuhulin
Larger aircraft shops can calibrate torque wrenches; any torque wrenches used on aircraft have to be calibrated every year. Smaller shops like our get them done at a calibration lab that makes its living doing such stuff like wrenches, pressure gauges thermometers and temp gauges, cable tensiometers, multimeters, and so on. Calibrating a torque wrench is typically $50 to $75.
Dan
Aircraft are different.I tighten up my land vehicles nuts by feel, unless I need to use a torque wrench on certain thingys.I won't drop out of the Sky on anybody.I was going to say something else too, but I forgot.I reckon that married Irish woman wayyyy over yonder across the big pond in Ireland is right.When she told me I am getting old and senile, except she spelled it with a p. cuhulin
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