My car needs CPR

Hello everyone,

I have a 1985 chevy celebrity two door, 2.8 v-6, fuel injected. My problem is this-when I try to start my car it tries to turn over but won't start. I know what your thinking but this is what I have done so far.

1. new cap and rotor
2. new coil
3. new ignition switch (ignition is only a few months old but replaced for just in case)
4. new starter
5. new plugs and wires

These things are def. ok

1. Fuel injection
2. fuses
3. fuel pump
4. wires
5. water pump
6. distributer
7. all belts are tight I was told that it was not the timing chain and gear because the car does not sputter, click or backfire badly.

I am at my wits end! There is a place for the diagnostic key and I used it, however my check engine light does not work. For all intents and purposes the car should start but it won't. My battery is showing very good on the meter in the car and the post are not corroded. There is spark both on the plug wires and the coil. I called a couple of mechanics and I have heard so much bull (probably because I'm a woman) like how one guy wanted to drop my tranny and change the brushes, lolol laughable! If anyone has any clues as to what is going on please, I'm begging, let me know! Step by step this is what the car is doing--

1. put key in and turn
2. it cranks slightly
3. it tries to turn over but won't

I changed the fuel filter to. There is no clicking or sounds of rushing air, or any dragging. Please help!

You need to do a bit of diagnosis before changing out any more parts.

Engines have trouble 'cranking', or turning over, if: (1) the starter is bad, or binding in some manner. On GM products, you know, starters are set up with shims to be sure they mesh with the flywheel ring gear properly. (2) the battery is bad (3) the battery cable is bad or dirty....common for them to have internal corrosion at terminal ends (4) there is some internal problem with the engine.... like hydrolocked cylinders, or other mechanical problems

Take out the plugs, put the transmission in neutral if manual) and with a wrench on the crankshaft pulley bolt, see if you can easily turn the engine over. If you can turn it over, then see if the starter motor will also spin it over. If yes, look for (4) above. If no, go back to (1), (2), and (3).

(Even money is on (3))

If you get this sucker to spin over well, maybe it will start.

(3)

First let me say, I am not a mechanic. Well, yes and no, just not a CAR mechanic. I've driven *salty* cars most of my life. Since nobody else is making suggestions...

I would put a timing light on it, or have somebody else put a timing light on it, because I thing your VACUUM ADVANCE DIAPHRAGM on your distributor is perforated.

Buy a new one, VACUUM ADVANCE DIAPHRAGM, put it on, or have someone else put it on, and drive off happily into the sunset.

Lg

Nope, a leaking vacuum advance diaphragm won't cause a no start.

The OP needs to discern; Is the engine cranking at the correct (normal) speed? does the battery load test at the correct specs? is the starter draw in spec? Is there spark (will it jump a ST-125 spark tester at the spark plug end of all plug wires?) does the spark occur at the right time? Is there compression? Is there fuel in the correct quantity of the correct quality?

Say, where is that vacuum diaphram on a 1985 Celebrity V6 EFI? ;-)

Toyota MDT in MO

There are certain things we can't see, but take for granted. We don't know who worked on this car, and whether or not they have a pulse.

OP doesn't have a clue. She admits it, and throws herself at the mercy of the wolves.

Start with the ignition system and work you way from there. That's what we *take for granted.* I don't know what her battery condition is, her cabling, grounds, starter, anything. We don't know. How the hell are we supposed to fix an engine sight unseen.

Lg

Who the f*ck knows. When was the last time YOU worked on an 85 celebrity v6? Is it carbureted? YES or NO.

Pound rocks.

Lg

Lots of folks forget that battery cables have two ends when cleaning them and when the battery end is corroded, the other end is suspect too. They can be black inside the connection at the post and still 'look' ok from the outside.

I use a booster cable to test for this. I start by running it from the negative post (if I can get the clamp to actually touch the post, I do) and run it to the engine block to see if that helps. I then run it to the body to see if that helps.

If bypassing the negative doesn't make any difference, I can do the same on some positive connections with care. The starter can be jumpered to the battery carefully to see if it turns over. I put the booster cable clamp on the cable bolt at the starter and carefully touch the battery post with the other end first making sure the vehicle is in park or neutral if a standard with the park brake set.

'Lots' of times if you can get it to groan over a little and do this a few times, it will heat up the bad connection. You can then carefully feel the main battery cable ends and if you find one warm or hot, you have likely found the problem. They can be hot enough to burn so be careful.

Have you tried boosting it from another vehicle? Maybe the battery is just low?

Mike

Nowhere.

But still, a leaking vacuum advance will not cause a no start.

OTOH, if the part that replaces the vacuum diaphragm were leaking, that -could- cause a no start. ;-)~

The problem is in the battery ,power cables, or grounding. On the account of your last disciption. If the battery is over 5 years old check battery and cables.Turn car to on and turn headlights on.If the headlights are dim or car battery dies in 15 minutes change battery a nother area usually forgotten is the ground for the engine, it can corrode and break, this will cuase the same problem,I know this by person experiance.

Never take anything for granted.

Irrelevant to this particular failure.

Where do we find these wolves?

I can't tell from her post whether the starter is cranking the engine at normal speed or not, not because of not being there, but because of how she's describing the symptoms. The dashboard volt gauge is meaningless WRT assessing the condition of the battery. Observing the dome light during cranking would give me more information. (have you watched your dome light during cranking LG?)

I do it all the time. In 2000 I was doing it with; two shattered femurs, a broken back, all the bones in my face shattered, from a wheel chair, and then from crutches. This is easy.

Could be as simple as a plugged exhaust...

My best bet is still power, look into the grounding cable for the engine. This does cause the problem stated.

Hell, I'm only doing it with a broken back (L4), broken neck (C7), cervical spondylosis, cervical stenosis, subdural hematoma, and a broken ulna on my left arm/wrist. Should be a piece of cake.

Somebody has taken advantage of this lady, by replacing a whole bunch of stuff that didn't need replacing. See original message. Those are the wolves. They're everywhere, waiting to rip-off anybody who comes through the door. ASK HER how much money she has spent so far and the problem isn't repaired yet.

Lg

So... When you turn the key, does the engine turn over normally, or slowly?

If slowly then your starter is having problems, the battery cables are no good, or the engine is "busted" and binding. You could try a jumper cable from the starter motor to the battery to see if that produces a good turnover.

If normally, then it's getting no fuel (or too much) or there is no spark when needed. Try spraying some starter fluid into the intake and then turn it over.

As far as a Vaccum advance, there is none on this car. In

A 'new' battery won't start a car without a really good charge in it. Stores don't normally give them a good charge, they expect the car to finish up the job. The car will just crank over really slow if at all if it doesn't start up and go right away.

Have you tried to boost it?

Mike

"Detta" wrote: (1985 chevy celebrity 2.8 V6 FI)

My car won't start.

It cranks slightly but won't turn over.

There is spark at the plug wires. It does not sputter, click or backfire badly. The battery shows good on the dash meter. Battery posts are not corroded. ________________________________________

Please describe the symptoms in enough detail to permit someone to guess at the problem:

What does "cranks slightly" mean? Grunts but doesn't move? Turns very, very slowly? Turns partway then stops? Turns all around, but too slowly?

What does "not backfire badly" mean? Only backfires a little? Doesn't backfire at all? Fires but doesn't backfire?

What are the actual readings on the dash meter? Voltage with key on? Voltage while cranking? Voltage when engine used to run?

Was the battery load tested at a parts store?

Were there any other symptoms in the days before the problem started?

Information about these items may allow a more accurate diagnosis and hopefully a cure.

Good Luck.

Rodan.