New oil maybe not so good for classic engines

I guess all classic car owners will be going to performance shops to buy their oil.

m6onz5a wrote in news:25c22b37-60a6-498c-a8a8- snipped-for-privacy@r10g2000vby.googlegroups.com:

The Hemming's classic-car publications all carry ads for zinc-rich motor oils.

there's some truth in that article and a load of fluff that is simply advertising trying to slide on in under that truth.

cutting through to the facts and sticking to the headline, yes, lower zddp levels are detrimental to engine longevity. yes, you can restore zddp levels to what they were by way of additives. that's what i do with my cars. and you can see the difference in the amount of residue that accumulates on the magnetic oil pan plug i use.

and given that both honda and toyota catalysts will last 20 years /with/ zddp in oil, i do /not/ buy the e.p.a.'s so-called "reason" for zddp's downgrade/removal from current oil formulations - it think it's simply a concession to a detroit that wants to reduce longevity of their vehicles and thus increase long term sales.

They really should, or else use an oil supplement. It's not even "classic cars" but anything with a flat tappet cam, which includes a lot of vehicles.

nate

Hemmings has even come up with their own brand of zinc-rich motor oil in cases of four or five. About $9 a bottle.

My 1983 Dodge van is factory stock. Should I use that new oil, or zinc supplement, next oil and filter change?

JR wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com:

Sure. Won't hurt a thing.

supplement, next oil and filter change?

I'd actually consider using a ZDDP supplement if you can find it locally. Couldn't hurt, and if the stars align right, not using it could be a problem.

nate

Or more likely to the truck stops. Many of the diesel engine oils have reasonable ZDDP levels. Rotella T seems to be the favorite of the classic car guys I know and it's not very expensive.

I think how important this is also depends a lot on just how much spring pressure is on those cams. Some of those high performance V-8s have a huge amount more force than something like a BMW M30, and that makes ZDDP levels a lot more important.

--scott

I use Valvoline 10/40 motor oil in my van. Seems like that has always worked A OK for me. Maybe I will stay with what works.

supplement, next oil and filter change?

You can buy Redline Break in Supplement and add about 3 oz of that with the oil change. You can also buy oils sold as "for high mileage cars". They have extra additives that make them to "rich" to meet the newest oil specs. There is at least one major, not boutique, brand that specifically is advertised for classic cars. I don't think you need to spend $9 a quart to get the protection you need but you can if you want. I would also caution against using the "diesel" oils. Some used to be ok but many of them have also been reformulated and are no longer really the "right" oil for any gas engine. You do not want to overdo it, too much of the additives are also harmful.

Ah! Nothing finer than a round table discussion about motor oil!

I'm crazy about the stuff and use a Bardahl engine oil supplement.

even rotella is well below old zddp levels these days. i'll bet that diesel fleet managers are starting to get pissed round about now.

this is correct. here's a civic cam [relatively high lift compared with some other cam profiles] clearly showing the "break-through" point that results from spring pressure.

Best thing you can do it put mothballs in the gas tank and ATF in the engine oil, then also put some ATF in the gas tank. Put egg whites in the radiator. Put Brake fluid in the Automatic Tranny and PS.

Where do I put the tomato juice?

--scott

while skepticism is absolutely the healthiest attitude to have with respect to engine lubes and some of the garbage sold with fantastical claims of efficacy, don't throw your babies out with the bathwater:

That goes in the windshield washer bottle.