Raybestos = junk??? ( Cracked pads and cracked rotors)

|All my brake problems started when I installed Raybestos Quiet Stop |pads a year ago. Since then I've gone thru 3 rotor pairs + 1 rotor |turning in a mere 20kmi. In each case vibration sets in a few |thousand miles after the brake job. | |Last night I removed my Raybestos Quiet Stop pads w/20kmi on them and |my Raybestos PG Plus rotors w/5kmi on them. Both the rotors and pads |had hairline cracks!! The pads cracks went all the way thru and the |rotors looked like shallow surface cracks/casting defects. The rotors |also showed some spots that showed discloration. (about 8-10 spots the |size of a dime around the circumference of the rotor.) | |I torque my wheels with precision and I was careful to break in/season |these new rotors. (the latest rotor set is PG Plus and they're |supposed to be premium |quality - at least the price was). | |Fortunately Schucks took back everything and gave me new pads and |rotors - no charge. | |I'm reluctant to use the new replacement Quiet Stops since all my |problems starting with these pads. I'm planning on tossing them and |trying Performance Friction pads or OEM. | |Are Raybestos products junk or an I plagued?? Any other suggestions?? | |My car is a Pontiac GTP but it's a daily driver.

Raybestos is pretty much the standard for brake parts in the U.S. Extremely quality-conscious, a division of Dana, lots of R&D, many Indy 500 wins. I've used PG-Plus and Super Stops on my vbehicles for several decades with never a single problem. I've not used the Quiet Stops, but my collegues in the parts business use them on their vehicles and really like them, mostly for the "feel". They seem to grip like a racing pad without being hard on rotors.

So, sounds like your brakes are seriously overheating. The PG-Plus pads have a lot of margin for that, but looks like you are exceeding that. The first thing that comes to mind is that your pads aren't retracting properly and remain in contact with the rotor when the brakes are not applied. This could be due to worn caliper boots and seals, or maybe hardware - clips etc. Brake hoses cana lso contribute, though that is usually confined to a single wheel. The root of the problem may be that GM undersized the brakes. If yours is an older GTP that may be part of it. Later models had bigger brakes. Also, that model has some aero stuff - air dam etc - that may be shrouding the wheels and blocking airflow. Would you be interested in adding cooling ducts? You can usually do that for less than $50.

I'd probably start out by trying to determine the exact temps of the various pieces - hub, rotor friction surface, rotor "hat", caliper, the pad itself. Should be able to shoot most of these through the wheel with a laser thermomenter. I'd check it at least once after couple of miles at moderate speed, followed by a gentle stop. Write down all these temps after several different conditions and see if you can pick up a pattern.

Good luck

Hi Dave:

I think that you should get to bottom of this fast - sound to me like you've either got a bent caliper or they are sticking - most of the Raybestos line will go to 400 degrees without a problem, but your disoloration says that you're getting hotter than that. If you drive the car hard, then a brake upgrade is REQUIRED for this car - I run Baers on a couple of cars - but if you don't, then you have a problem that will get you into big trouble if you don't solve it.

The hairline cracks say that something is out of whack in the system - maybe studs are not done right, but I'd suspect either a bent or misaligned caliper (maybe two) from your description. If you need higher temp pads, go get some Mintex - I love them - can cook my brakes without trouble ( I also run some ATE super blue or gold fluid with high boiling point). DOT4 fluid can go up to about 550 (Wilwood), but you may be running hotter than that with the disolorations. The other thing that you might need is better rotors - I think that yours are designed for the standard Grand Prix, or a proportioning valve (check Wilwood again).

I'd start from scratch, and get a dial indicator on the rotors, and then check the caliper alignment, and then check the calipers themselves. Then take off the front wheels, have someone put the brakes on, and watch the calipers for flex and retraction. Something is definitely amis here, and Raybestos makes good pads. If there is nothing showing, then I'd change rotor type, and pad type.

By the way, tell me where you drive, I'll stay away for a while. Youo've got a brake failure wating to happen

Andrew

davefr wrote:

Wheel bearing causing the rotor to track untrue? You said pads and rotors as in more than one. Are you a 2 footed driver ?

Raybestos brake parts are good quality. Used them many time without any problems. It's one of the rare few good quality parts that Pep Boys sells.