>> any reason not to buy an aftermarket O2 sensor over the factory O2 >> sensor? tia
>
>while i'm on the subject:
>
>i'm just winging this repair, so does this sound like not too
>halfbaked a diagnostic:
I would be surprised if this turned out to be an O2 problem. Sounds more like an ignition problem, especially with the puddle in the picture. Steve B.
z wrote in news:20096c7c-c6c8-4d63-acd6- snipped-for-privacy@w7g2000hsa.googlegroups.com:
As in '80s Accord or Integra?
If so, the sensor is in the manifold, right behind the radiator.
Steve B. wrote in news:qsb0d4laj2ptl1dgenqn9uk43ql9ua4pcp@
4ax.com:
Old wires, I'll bet.
z wrote in news:ac44cf00-2f02-46d5-94e1- snipped-for-privacy@m36g2000hse.googlegroups.com:
You don't know if you've got an Accord or an Integra?
OEM for sure.
OEM (most likely made by NGK, like OEM plugs). And NGK Laser- Iridiums.
I used Bosch wires on my '84 Scirocco when I tuned it up figuring they would be acceptable replacements for a German car. They failed within two months and I had to pay for a costly trip to the mechanic just to find out that the new plug wires I'd installed were garbage (I couldn't believe that new parts could fail that quickly...)
nate
I bought fancy expensive Accel wires a few years back and same deal, they failed first time they got wet. The Bosch wire are a 'discount' brand at the store I shop at and I wouldn't touch them on my Jeep, I went back to OEM and am still running them 8 years later.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build Photos:z wrote in news:51e983b0-af15-4dae-9c79- snipped-for-privacy@y21g2000hsf.googlegroups.com:
You don't need platinums for the B16.
The '90 CRX used the B16A1 engine. OEM specified plugs for that engine are the non-platinum: NGK BKR6E-N11 and ND (Denso) K20PR-L11
You should pay around 3 or 4 bucks each for them.
I don't think any spark plugs are worth $12.00 each. cuhulin
z wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@u65g2000hsc.googlegroups.com:
What are the brands and part numbers you're being quoted for each type?
z wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@h60g2000hsg.googlegroups.com:
You're comparing non-platinum plugs (D16) with platinum ones (B16). Did you notice that?
What is your engine number? Have a look at the little flat pad on the front of the engine, just below the head, right against the bellhousing.
z wrote in news:9a6f4c42-dea1-4499-91e5- snipped-for-privacy@q35g2000hsg.googlegroups.com:
The B16 has two sender units, and both of them are on the back of the head under the distributor.
The two-wire sender is the one for the ECU. The one-wire unit is for the dashboard gauge. Can't comment on wire colors since I have no idea what wiring harness(es) you're working with.
An infrared thermometer is a Godsend in cases like this. It tells you what's REALLY happening with temps in various locations. And those temps will be vastly different from location to location and surface to surface.
If your engine is truly refusing to warm up and the cooling system is in proper shape, the only thing I can think of is that you have extremely poor combustion. If you have poor combustion you will also have high HC emissions plus lots of other symptoms. Oh, and you could also have ignition timing that's severely retarded, and all your combustion is taking place in your exhaust manifold.
You never did give me the engine numbers I requested (much) earlier. How badly do you really want to find a solution to this problem? You wanna just jaw (or type) about your problems but not actually fix them?
Tegger wrote in news:Xns9B48CE41C56ACtegger@208.90.168.18:
Which is double-plus ungood, by the way.
z wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@v22g2000pro.googlegroups.com:
The B16A was a JDM-only engine.
Either the gauge is blown or the wire has a break in it. When engines are swapped, it's common for wires to get accidentally overextended (stretched) or pinched between parts. It may that be you had partial connectivity when the hose blew.
You can get a new dash cluster from a wreckers, and test that gauge. If that one works, swap it into your existing cluster.
***WARNING*** Turn ignition OFF before testing gauge. Ground the gauge wire from the sender FIRST, THEN turn the ignition on. DO NOT ALLOW the gauge needle to reach "H" once the ignition is turned on! Doing so will wreck the gauge! All you need to see is definite needle movement from its home position. Once you're certain the needle is moving, TURN THE KEY OFF QUICKLY; it can shoot up fast!I hope you put the right plugs in.
Maybe you were so used to crappy running you were used to it.
This engine has _not_ had good care. Lord only knows what else is wrong with it.
Timing lights with built in tachs are all of $75 or so. A very good investment. You have a 2-degree + or - tolerance on timing. A timing light is 100% necessary to achieve that precision. The engine will not run properly (and may be damaged) with incorrect timing.
Rich and cool in an engine is very bad. Rich and cool eats up your rings and bearings so fast it's amazing. Get your ride fixed ASAP, or start saving for a new engine.
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