re: "Google Wallet may be making a return" (and "Why is it so complex

And leaving out that the conversation was about rotors warping...

...without having the class to admit he was wrong.

There's no law requiring repeating everything that was already said. It's typical & normal & courteous to NOT repeat everything that was said. Look it up. Common netiquette is you only quote the few lines you're responding to.

Those who disagree are always the trolls who have their own agenda.

"Law"? Of course not.

Is it typical, normal, and courteous to repeatedly call someone a liar (essentially)...

...and then when it shown that you are clearly wrong to move on without apologizing?

Common etiquette says to acknowledge when you've been shown to be wrong.

I don't disagree.

But my problem was him snipping the lines.

You're nothing but a whiny troll. Go away.

Nah.

I think I'll stay.

:-)

Arleen is a lying sack of s*it without the slightest hint of class.

Please, every time you're going to reply to him imagine that little chubby he gets and think again. Do you really want to be responsible for the only sexual stimulation that obese naked troglodyte gets in his life? Please, think of that image first.

Can't recall. I just looked at the rotor gouge and, if *I* considered it too deep, into the bin it went. You have to realise that *any gouge* reduces the surface area for braking so if it doesn't machine out, it will take ages for the pads to fully bed, if at all, and will lead to unbalanced braking if the gouges on each side of the car aren't balanced.

I use my own judgement.

I have seen terribly gouged rotors - and I've binned them.

Pre-cisely!

Again, I use my own judgement.

I have had heaps of rotors, and drums, fail my judgemental spec.

I have often seen discs worn beyond limits by the end of the second set of pads. When to replace? When they don't clean up on a lathe, are undersized, or I use my judgement to assess that gouges, etc may cause bed-in and braking balance issues. After you've done a few hundred, you soon get a feel for what works ok and what doesn't.

And, because I was working *in the trade*, and later teaching my trade in a college, I always had access to the required tools.

A one inch mic is *useless* if it is of the standard form. You *need* a disc micrometer whereby the bottom of the disc surface can also be measured as well as near the periphery. After all, one of the checks required is a *taper measurement*.

Again, I use the disc mic for depth but, whilst in the trade, I used my own judgement.

The brake disc micrometer designed for the purpose of course. But, as I said in another post, with gouges I use my own judgement.

That is what happens nowadays. Back in the day, some rotors were damnably expensive - especially those integral with the hub. You had no choice but to maximise their lifespan whenever possible.

Short answer, yes. Well, I used to! Not only was I taught to do that, I saw the need.

Almost nobody knows the spec for gouges for any given rotor in my experience, and, when the spec id finally found (if found), it's shocking how _huge_ a gouge has to be to fail a rotor.

They're not really hard to measure though, simply because of the spec.

Those who have never seen the spec for gouges wouldn't know that.

I have only about a half dozen old rotors in my garage in a heap. They're useful for weights, but I was hoping to find a use for them.

Hehhehheh... Lewis _hates_ that he knows nothing about the topic.

Recycle them - scrap iron.

The irony.

It depends on the vehicle and how thick the rotors are. I recall my

Unfortunately, in the effort to increase fuel economy, manufacturers made rotors much thinner, and essentially disposable. You could get by with replacing pads only, but you couldn't resurface the thin rotors, there just wasn't enough metal (which is also the reason that they warped so readily). When a car dealer's service department advertises low prices for brake jobs and it includes "resurfacing rotors" you can be pretty, sure that if it's a recent vintage car, that you'll get a call insisting that the rotors need to be replaced at an extra $150 or so.

Andy Burnelli can learn about rotors and resurfacing here:

Steve, You make something as simple as a spec into some kind of voodoo magic.

Every statement from you shows you have _never_ done a proper brake job in your entire life, which is why you posted total bullshit about rotor warp.

Rotors don't warp. They can't.

You need in excess of 2300 degrees F (brake fluid boils at 1/4 that temp!). The brake system would be marshmallows by the time rotors got hot enough.

The _only_ way to know when to fail a rotor is when it fails the spec. Period.

And the best way to tell if it fails the spec is either to _see_ cracks in the rotor (or some other _major_ failure indicator), or, to measure it.

Only you and Alan Baker could (or would) possibly claim otherwise.

Hi Xeno,

I assess you as the most knowledgeable here (certainly you have more experience than I do); however I will point out you dodged both issues.

1. You dodged the issue that brake rotors can't possibly warp simply because the 2300 degrees needed would make the rest of the components disintegrate (e.g., brake fluid boils at less than 1/4 of that temperature - and you know this).

1. You dodged the issue that you fail a brake rotor on one condition and one condition only - which is if it no longer meets the spec.

On the specific spec of gouge depth and width, I also noticed you dodged that, which tells me you've never looked at a spec sheet in your life.

Don't feel badly about that. Almost nobody does.

Everyone _says_ they do. But they lie.

Like you did. And that's OK.

I'm not _expecting_ anyone here to know what I know about brakes. Not even you, even as I defer to your mass of experience over mine.

I just tell it like it is. Most people bullshit.

He didn't dodge the issue and neither did I.

He stated from personal experience that he had seen warped rotors and I presented video that conclusively showed warped rotors.