re: "Google Wallet may be making a return" (and "Why is it so complex

In correct.

Draw a diagram of a steering axis with normal, closer-to-the-the-vehicle-centre-at-the-top KPI and no caster at all.

Whichever direction you move the steering will cause the stub axle to point downward.

Wow.

That video gets so much wrong.

Moving forward on that topic, I thank you for giving a rationale why it's the nearside tire that wears its outside edge the most on twisty roads.

One confusion I still have is about the magnitude of the wear between the nearside tire outside edge and the farside tire inside edge on a lock turn.

Knowing that the farside camber goes from negative to more negative, and the nearside camber goes from negative to positive, aren't both tires at an 'extreme' camber when at the middle of the sharp curve?

If the magnitude of the farside negative camber was the same as the magnitude of the nearside positive camber on those turns, wouldn't the wear equal out over time given we can assume about equal number of left turns as right turns?

I suspect that the magnitude of the positive camber on the nearside tire is GREATER than the magnitude of the negative camber on the farside tire.

Is that the case?

And, in so doing, increases camber to the positive. And you can *see* this effect just by turning the steering to either lock! Well done, you're learning something. Keep at it, you'll get there - eventually.

No! KPI makes camber go into the NEGATIVE.

Oh dear, and I thought we were getting somewhere with your education. Instead you are turning into a recalcitrant. Sad!

Why is a tire larger than 18 inches ever necessary for a non-commercial vehicle? I don't think I've ever had a vehicle (I've owned well over 30 vehicles) with a larger than 15 inch diameter tire. That includes my F-150 and C10 trucks. My '97 Chrysler LHS *might* have had 16" tires, at the largest. I hate needlessly large modern trucks and SUV's.

True, but some things, you can't help. Both my Roku box for the TV and the DVD/VCR combo take AAA batteries. I didn't design the remotes; they are what they are.

No I haven't, but I looked it up. Looks like 6 little 1.5V batteries; interesting.

I don't own any BMW's, but if you're bored enough, feel free to come visit -- I've got a 6 car garage, and car projects for weeks! ;)

New Garage:

Part of my mess:

There are several Geo Metros out of view, as well as an '89 Olds Cutlass Ciera up on jacks. A neighbor torched off the rusted-on rotors, and I need to finish the brakes and lower ball joints.

The only reason for mentioning the rim diameter is that the HF bead breaker tool has to be "modified" slightly for the larger diameter wheels on SUVs and light trucks. That modification simply is to extend the base a few inches so that the larger wheels lay on top of that now-extended base.

The way I easily extend the base is to put a long 10-inch-wide board over the base, and I step on that inch-thick board to keep it from flipping up when pressing down on the bead breaking lever. That works fine but I'm aware others have elegantly welded length onto the HF bead breaker tool.

Still others have welded a longer arc onto the bead breaker arm, which, someday, I may do myself - as it would make bead breaking easier to do.

Speaking of the length of the arc in bead breaking, that's the part that does all the work, so it's critical, especially when slippery with dish detergent. In fact, the short arc of the bead breaker "attachment" that comes with the HF tire-removal tool is why I said the first thing you do is not install it when you're setting up the tire mounting tool.

Part of the proper setup for the tire-mounting tool is in fastening it to something solid, where most people attach it directly to the pavement, as I do myself. I've seen others attaching it to a pallet or to a large piece of plywood, which works if you need the portability but you then have to always stand on that board the entire time you're removing the tire and reinstalling it, which is a tap dance I don't want to bother with doing.

When you do the static balancing, there are the old-time advantages of spending the time to do the job right, which, in my experience, the tire shops do NOT bother to do.

Notice this is an important advantage of DIY in that you will do they job right. You have no idea whether the tire shop will bother to do the job right. Of course, there is debate on the net as to what is right, but if you don't know it, most (but not all!) wheels come with a marking on the inside and most new tires come with red dots and/or yellow dots marked on one side of the tire. I ran an experiment by driving by tire shops and asking them what the dots mean, and almost none of the people there knew, which, when I first asked, was a shocker.

It's like asking the guy selling you bolts what the bolt markings mean and he doesn't know... that's when you learn that DIY is better because you know more than the guy in the shop does about how to properly mount a tire, even as he will have more experience in a week than you have in your life.

I am well aware that the rim markings get scraped away over time, and that the yellow and/or red markings don't matter all that much to the guy in the tire shop who has a dynamic balancing machine which tells him exactly where and how much weight to put on each side, which compensates for any inherent imbalance in the wheel and in the tire.

But since YOU are doing your own tires, you spend the time to find the markings on the wheel (and to mark them with whiteout or nail polish so you can find them in the future) and you spend the time to _properly_ adjust the tire mount point onto the rim with respect to the valve stem _before_ you balance the tire.

In fact, what got me _started_ on doing my own mounting & balancing was that I _never_ saw a single shop ever mount my own tires correctly. More than once I pointed it out and they gave me the mounting for free (stories were posted at the time in rec.autos.tech & alt.home.repair newsgroups).

I'm not saying the wheels will fall off the car, but I would make the claim that nearly 100% of the tires mounted and balanced and installed by professional shops are NOT done by the book (again, it may not matter if the torque is wrong or if they pry off the BMW BBS hubcaps wrong of if they don't put differential pressure in the front versus the rear tires, etc., but the fact that it's prevalent in my experience means it's likely prevalent in all situations (people just don't know what's right).

I've even had to tell _them_ how to position the tires properly on the rim!

Bear in mind I don't know of any local stores which sell the typical crimp on wheel weights, and, unfortunately, in California, you can't get lead anymore (for better or for worse, I guess) so you can either use the stick-on weights that HF sells, or you have to mail order them.

Never forget the dynamic balance test is always free anywhere in the world.

On the topic of marketing cleverly differentiating your air from theirs... my point is always that morons fall for every marketing trick in the book. *Nitrogen in Tires: A Complete Guide*

a. They Keep The Tire Pressure Better: b. Effective in Hot Climates: c. Improved Fuel Economy: d. Increased Tread and Tire Life: e. Cooler Tires:

Side note: As a general rule, any marketing claims that something does everything, usually means it does absolutely nothing. (At least they didn't add the classic "and more" when fabricating that dubious list of benefits.)

They have no education and a low IQ, so if it merely "sounds" scientific, then, to these ill-educated low-IQ morons, it _is_ scientific (to them!).

Hence, you bring up a good adult point that the potential daily temperature fluctuation can have a greater effect on PSI than the mere 1.3 psi measured by Consumer Reports after an entire year in their testing regimen.

There's nothing wrong with nitrogen in tires, but what _adults_ need to realize is it's simply a marketing gimmick. That Lewis fell for the marketing gimmick hook line and sinker makes my point about the iKooks.

People who don't own adult comprehensive skills _infer_ exactly what marketing messaging _wants_ them to infer, which is that the nitrogen theoretical advantages over air actually matter in the real world.

There is no scientific study yet that I can find that says it does. Yet, any moron can find marketing claims galore that it does.

The _reason_ it doesn't matter isn't in the theory, but in the facts. a. The nitrogen Costco uses is only 95% (not 100%) b. Even if it were 100%, oxygen then diffuses IN (yes, *IN*!) c. The tires are not deflated completely before inflating d. Where Consumers Union said you needed to fill multiple times e. And then you have to find nitrogen to top it off each time f. Where the total possible difference is round about a single PSI

What that green cap really means is someone fell for the marketing gimmick. It's a dunce cap, of sorts, IMHO.

BTW, to always strive to add scientifically factual adult value to any conversation on Usenet among peers, here's a rebuttal to the CR report: *Nitrogen in Tires Consumer Reports Response*

Their rebuttal was fair, in my opinion, and yes, I _am_ well educated, particularly in engineering and in the sciences.

<snip>

Not really necessary, but they do improve handling and increase traction.

Manual tire changers are not expensive. The ones from Harbor Freight are sufficient for home use.

The issue remains that static balancing should be avoided. Read

. Not many home mechanics are going to spend the money on a dynamic wheel balancer, but it's extremely foolish to balance vehicle tires using a static balancer.

There's no upside to mounting your own tires when you then have to take the them to somewhere that they can be properly balanced.

But they're not AAA batteries as Arlen implies.

They're not even AAAA batteries (which are a rare, but real thing)

You mean a 15" diameter WHEEL, don't you?

:-)

I'm kind of with you about needlessly large trucks, etc.

My brother and I at one time each owned a RAM 1500, but mine was a 1998, while his was a 2017 or 2018.

The difference in size was startling.

But larger wheels do have their place.

Larger wheels on high performance vehicles allow for larger brakes, and while larger brakes won't actually stop you any quicker for a single stop, their greater heat capacity will mean they fade less when doing multiple stops/slowings.

Bear in mind this is an _adult_ discussion below, devoid of marketing BS.

There are scientific reasons what all these things do in terms of handling: a. Wider tread b. Lower profile c. Larger diameter

If they come with the vehicle stock, then it's my observation that, in general, the choice by the manufacturer makes sense; but if they're aftermarket choices, often, in my experience, they don't make sense.

Like putting low-profile tires on a SUV. That makes no sense from a performance standpoint.

It's a "fashion" statement just as the green dunce cap is on tires.

You need more than the tire changer since you need three different tools: a. First, you need the bead breaker b. Then, you need the manual tire changer c. Then you should add a static balancer All of which HF sells (and all of which I own), where the cost is offset after a few years, depending of course on how many tires you fix, flip rotate, and replace.

The other tools needed are a vise grip (because the HF tire mounting bar twists in your hands, particularly when you have dish detergent around), two extra HF tire-mounting irons (for the really tough jobs when you can't get the lower bead into the deepest point of the rim), dish detergent spray (for obvious reasons), a schrader valve screwdriver, a valve installation lever (you don't need it for removal but for replacement), a valve filling tool (sans the schrader valve) and, the one optional tool that's super handy, a bead blaster (aka a bead bazooka) which saves a ton of time.

For balancing, it's helpful to have the special tools for removal and replacement of the clip-on weights, but normal hand tools suffice.

Likewise, it's helpful for patch plug repair to have a round buffer and tire bead spreader, but, again, normal power tools such as wire brushes and sandpaper drill fittings work just fine for home use.

Bear in mind motorcycles require slightly different tools.

If you read that article, which I don't think Steve actually read, you can see it says what I've been saying, which is just because the shop has the tools doesn't mean the shop properly mounts and balances your wheels and tires using those fancy tools.

This is a direct quote from Steve's link above: As an engineer, I often attend to sites with reports of a faulty wheel balancer. The general complaint is "... the machine needs calibrating", and this diagnosis usually derived from frequent customer "comebacks" or that operatives are repeatedly "chasing weights."

And although on some occasions the wheel balancer does actually have an issue or requires calibration, you would be surprised how often the issues come down to operator error. Which is bit disconcerting to think about considering the number of wheels they have most likely worked on previously."

While just as with nitrogen in tires I have no problem with the fact that it's being done, for free... as I'm never saying that it does harm.

The problem I have is _charging_ people for the hokus pokus that they don't need, where almost everyone who doesn't balance their own wheels like I do wouldn't know that you _can_ get a perfectly good balance that way.

And never forget, the _test_ for dynamic balance is _always_ free.

The problem with people like Steve making proclamations that are based _purely_ on glossy marketing brochures is that people like Steve have never even once in their entire lives done what they say can't be done.

People like Steve who have never done it & yet who feel they completely know how it can be done are therefore, almost always wrong as a result of their lack of knowledge (and in their total trust in marketing gimmicks).

The "requirement" for a dynamic balance is a marketing gimmick. The "test" for dynamic balance is _always_ free anywhere in the world.

Prove me wrong.

Again, Steve has never done it while I have, and more to the point of Steve's ignorance, Steve is only quoting MARKETING bullshit to back up his claims.

I've got nothing against dynamic balancing, mind you (except that they do it wrong in terms of proper initial positioning), but I also know that the test for proper dynamic balance is _always_ free everywhere in the world.

I also know that if the vehicle fails that free dynamic balancing test, then that _one_ wheel (isolating it is a bitch sometimes though) can be brought to Costco in California for a $5 dynamic balance, last I checked.

And yes, Costco will do it even for tires they didn't mount (based on my last check which, admittedly was years ago as I've always _passed_ the free dynamic balance test after having mounted & balanced my own tires at home).

Steve has _never_ mounted and balanced tires in his entire life.

I'm not asking Steve to start mounting and balancing tires himself; but I am asking Steve to explain, with facts, and without quoting pure marketing bullshit, why he feels that a proper dynamic balance can't be achieved at home, particularly when the test for dynamic balance is always free, no matter where you are in the world.

This is an _adult_ concept about adult comprehensive skills.

Can Steve (or anyone) bolster that belief system using scientific evidence that does NOT come from some MARKETING outfit trying to sell dynamic balancing?

Can he or not? That is the adult question to ask.

I'll read _everything_ anyone posts to back up their claim that you can't achieve proper balance of your wheels and tires at home.

It's nice to know there are adults here who can speak rationally.

I agree that you can't help NOT get AAA battery requirements with some things, where even switching those AAA batteries to rechargeable AAA batteries won't work all the time (due to the slight difference in voltage).

As an example, I have AAA and AA rechargeables where I have one AA ceiling mounted light unit that refuses to work with rechargeables so I have to use non-rechargeable batteries for that unit (in a high ceiling barn attic).

Luckily about the only AAA devices I had in the past have been slowly phased out over time, although I agree that when it's in something like a remote, you didn't likely choose the device based on battery practicality.

Bear in mind there's nothing wrong with the chemistry or size per se, but my argument is simply that AA batteries provide more bang for the buck (at typical prices) and that it's easier to stock fewer battery sizes and, perhaps the most contentious claim - that most of the time what uses AAA batteries is often large enough to have been able to be designed for AA.

If nobody bought units designed for AAA batteries, then they'd stop using AAA batteries when AA works just as well (actually better in most cases).

I'm impressed that you looked it up as the iKooks on one of the ngs always brazenly deny all facts they're unaware of, simply because they're unaware of them.

I don't know anyone who has taken apart a typical 9V battery who wasn't marvelled at the beauty and simplicity of how they achieved that voltage.

Me? My dad used to have a box of stuff he was throwing away which he'd constantly replenish with things like motors, catchers mitts, shoes, etc., where I'd take apart everything he put in that box in order to learn how they're made.

The first time I took apart a pair of high heel shoes I was impressed that the heel was made out of maple - where I love woods - as I'd take apart old furniture to get the walnut and oak and cedar to use in woodworking.

Taking apart a Radio Shack rechargeable D cell showed me that it was just a rechargeable C cell inside (which is almost criminal) and taking apart a six volt battery smelled something awful, but what's inside most of the 9V batteries was an engineering marvel of voltage-adding simplicity indeed.

The problem with bimmers and beemers is that they handle well, but that's about it. BMW knows how to make a drive train and suspension. But that's about it.

Bimmers & beemers perform beautifully, but, a Toyota SUV is overall built better (IMHO) because _all_ the systems are built well enough to not break.

If someone bothers to post a link, I always look at it, where I love that nice wide garage door and the fact you can store stuff in the rest of that building (presumably). (What's that white stuff on the ground though?) :)

You have LOTS of room for your tools in there. I can't tell if the floor is dirt or concrete, but you can do tire changing if you can find a flat spot.

With all those cars, you too would benefit from the economies of scale that mounting and balancing your own wheels/tires will garner you.

Plus you'd have the convenience of doing it in your pajamas at home.

With respect to brakes, you know what I know, which is that they're one of the easiest jobs in automotive maintenance to do, and yet, I've heard of people spending upwards of _thousands_ to do a typical four wheel brake job!

Are you aware of the cold/hot friction ratings printed on every passenger brake pad sold in the USA? I buy mine by that, and nothing else (other than fit, and price, of course). I get my rotors and calipers at CarID or RockAuto and I mic the rotors and drums before replacing them.

Do you do similarly? And do you agree that, in general, brakes are pretty damn easy to do right?

BTW, as an example, Scotty Kilmer (whom I have a love/hate relationship with) actually stole one of my graphics for his tire balancing video! :)

I'll say no more, but the point is that I document tire mounting and balancing at home so well on the various related forums that my graphics almost always show up in a typical Google image search on the topic.

I remind everyone that you actually said this:

"1. Most things that require AAA don't actually _need_ AAA (this is key!) (The assumption that they're "smaller" very often is just not true.) "

The assumption that AAA batteries are smaller than AA batteries is ALWAYS true...

...because they are smaller.

You talk such gibberish.

How could the light even tell that one battery was rechargeable and th other not? Are the electrons a different colour?

:-)

That's not what you bothered to say earlier.

Do you even now what "battery" actually means in the context of electricity?

etc.,

I notice you don't provide any support for your claim about a Radio Shack D cell.

Not everyone has the tools or the inclination.

And ignore that some pads are easier on rotors and drums...

Riiiiiiiiiight.

You know what would have been great there?

A Google image search...

he does, but in this case, there is surprisingly a bit of truth.

different voltages.

nimh/nicad rechargeable batteries have a nominal voltage of ~1.2v/cell, alkaline batteries are ~1.5v/cell and non-rechargeable lithium batteries are ~1.6v/cell.

recent devices normally work with all three types, especially if only just one or two batteries is needed, where the difference in voltage is small.

however, some older devices, especially ones that use several batteries, may fail to function due to the lower voltage of nimh, or possibly be damaged by the higher voltage of lithium batteries.

i have an old nikon flash that is designed to use six 1.5v alkaline batteries (9v), but with nimh rechargeable batteries, it's only 7.2v, which is enough of a difference so that the flash does not work at all.

he has photos of books about vacuum tubes/valves.

what more is there to know?