Fired up the Subaru, went for a ride, about a mile from home the tranny started binding..again...pulled over and it shifted to first and ran fine aftger that...
WTF?!?!?!
(if you didn't see the other post, I adjusted the brake band on a Suby 3AT auto trans to stop it from jumping when shifting from 1-2. Shifts great now, just binds
You are obviously not a car mechanic. Why are you working on this car? Is it a hobby, like a Frankenstein guitar you experiment on, but really don't use for gigs because you have no idea whether it'll make it through 3 songs?
The problem was jolting during the shift from 1-2. Manual said adjust the band. I went to just where it gave resistance and backed off. Spec was 18 Ft Lbs, but the space was too small for my torque wrench.
Drive it till it drops, then buy another...I have an '05 Scion tC and an '88 Supra, and an '89 Mazda to fall back on...
I don't know how you adjusted the band, but all transmission bands are adjusted basically like a brake shoe, meaning, with the same idea in mind of a brake drum that barely drags on the shoes when adjusted correctly.
If you still suspect the band, it's probably the band servo leaking or binding. Sometimes a chore to change out, depending on the transmission.
Check the governor for any binding. Sometimes plastic components can wear enough to cause it.
Did you notice any plastic debris in the pan when you removed it?
Well, the thing was working fine before I adjusted it. The only thing was, it would jolt from 1st to 2nd, and you really had to slame the throttle to get it to kick-down.
I found this:
formatting link
("Brake Band Adjustment")
I found out this is right from the Subaru repair manual. I didn't have a torque wrench that would fit, so I went until it just started to tighten and then backed off. It was so tight the car would barely move.
I did it again, again going just tight, and then backed off 1 full turn. Still tight. I backed off some more and it felt better; the jolting was gone and the kick-down was fine. But now it gives me the binding problem; when it shifts back to first the binding goes away and it drives normal...
But I manage to fix about 90% of the things that go wrong with my cars. Maybe if we didn't fart around with the political bullshit and actually talked cars, I could increase it to 99%.
I read the link Hachi and I believe you would get a better result in removing the pan, and visually making sure that the band is barely dragging on the drum. That 1/4 turn either way statement can be the difference sometimes.
I know it's a bit of a pain to remove the pan but I'm almost certain that you will be able to see a part, if not most of the band.
While on your back and the car in neutral, use your foot to rotate the drive wheel tire. You can see and feel the adjustment as you move the adjuster screw. I've done this lots of times, but not on a Subaru.
When it just barely drags is the best adjustment. You can also check out the contents of the pan and the band itself for wear and the band servo operation as well.
Tomorrow is supposed to be nice. I think I'll have a look...
Actually, on this car it's right out in the open. I'll have to see if I can get a gasket first. Some parts are plentiful, and others...
Of course, there's alway FIPG!!! Worked on the Supra just fine.
There's 4 of them!!! Actually, it's selectable, but in order to get there, it has to go up on ramps.
Thanks! I didn't understand how this really worked, but I see (er, understand) now! Kind of like the drag belt on a machine tool. Knowing how something works sure makes it easier. I'm lucky, I have a vivid imagination and can visualize very well. Now I have an idea what I'm looking for.
It may be I tightened it so much that it catches somewhere and when the trans goes back to first it frees it and 'realigns' it to where it's supposed to be. If I get done early tomorrow, I'll have a look.
This car only really gets used in snow and for trips to the grocery store. Once the snow stops for good, the plate comes off and goes on the Supra, so I'll have all summer. But thanks again!
Well...it wasn't binding, and the car rolled well, it was just jolting.
When I first put the car on the road, the "Hillholder" was working well, but after 4,000 miles (YES! 4,000 miles from Jan 2 to March 3!!!) it wasn't holding on even small inclines.
And it wasn't jolting, either, but the shifts were sort of smooth. The shifts are REALLY smooth now.
I still have a certain amount of 'fear' getting under a car, so I use either two sets of stands and two jacks, or ramps and chocks. NEVER under a jack alone!!!
When you say "jumping" or "jolting" do you mean like a harsh shift? Harsh shifts can be caused by bad accumulators, which are usually under the transmission pan.
It is more than obvious to most folks I think that you need a torque wrench for this job like the book says. A torque wrench is going to be cheaper than a pan gasket kit I'll bet and that gasket kit is going to be a waste of time and money because the band 'still' will need to be torqued properly to work. Maybe you will find something else wrong inside, but again, the band 'still' will need to be torqued properly to work!
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail > Fired up the Subaru, went for a ride, about a mile from home the tranny
Sometimes Autozone will have tools, perhaps torque wrenches included, which they will lend with a deposit, and reimburse when you bring it back. Maybe this would be a way to proceed.
MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.