What have you learned in your old age that you feel should be taught to high school students?

Dec 27, 2021 230 Replies

Multiple microcontrollers on a CAN bus? A modern car is a textbook example of distributed processing. By multiple I mean 50 to over 100 in luxury cars. EV's need even more.

The price that's being paid is a global chip shortfall that's impacting car production. It doesn't help that the industry has been consolidating:

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Microchip's PIC series, Atmel's AVR, Intel's 8051, and Zilog's Z80 derivatives are also used.

Profits also factor in. When I was closer to hardware design the mantra was 'Don't use Motorala'. There was absolutely nothing wrong with Motorola's microprocessors and some were very attractive. However Motorola's roots are in the automotive and radio industry. Design in a

68HC08 or 68HC11 part and if Ford ordered a few million parts you went to the end of the line.

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Even automatic transmissions, while still using planetary gears and friction pads are in a whole new world. The new 10 speed designs by Ford/GM and Toyota aren't your grandfather's Torqueflite. The transmission control module is on the bus talking to a number of other microcontrollers to decide which solenoid to energize. Dead TCM and you've got a 1 speed.

Then there is the stuff that existed but didn't work too well. The idea was there but not the technology. GM had the Autronic Eye headlight dimmer one the '52 Cadillac. They messed around with it for six or seven years but it was too erratic and they dropped it. Ford and Chrysler took a shot with similar results. The dimmer system on my Toyota is good enough that it dims the lights right about the time I would manually do so, even when overtaking a vehicle.

I won't say replacing the serpentine belt on a Geo is difficult but it is a bit tight. I had the 4 cylinder; maybe the 3 cylinder was roomier.

Interestingly, the home built airplane people love that engine. Light, dependable, and cheap.

I liked the Geo enough that I looked at a Suzuki, but that was about the time Suzuki automotive was going down the toilet. I've got a couple of Suzuki bikes and that division is still going strong.

left handed? Oddly for a person of my generation I never owned a VW and only ever drove on about 50 yards to get it clear of a loading dock. The closest I came was an Audi.

I always wanted one. The concept appealed to me. Simple, cheap and you could mix and match pieces and parts over a number of years when American cars were changing every year. The New Beetle missed the cheap part.

Changing the fuel pump in my '86 F150 was easy :) However now I have fuel up to the carb but it's no go again. I think the float is sticking but I'll deal with that in the spring.

Takes all the fun out of it. I keep the old pickup around to have something to fiddle with. I've even thought about converting it back to points.

Left handed. Not lug nuts but lug bolts. always a PITA to get the first one in.

My Toyota has a spin on. I can reach down from the top to unscrew it. (because when I put a new one on I don't bust a vein tightening it). Sometimes I can get the new one started from the top too. I like Swix filters because the threads are innies, so to speak.

Walmart is my store of last resort that I may go into once a year. HF is a block from where I work so I can examine the crap directly. I bought an electric impact wrench to rebuild the forks. It worked and also saved the day when The Amazing Hulk at the tire store put the lug nuts on when I bought new tires. I got my money's worth.

A pancake compressor blew the guts out of the regulator on the second use, but I replumbed it and it's still going.

I don't expect much out of their stuff so I'm not disappointed. The drill bits suck but then so do the ones at Lowes or Home Depot.

Fortunately I've got enough Craftsman tools to last this lifetime but I do miss Sears for that reason. K-Mart was carrying the line but they tore that down and build a Cabellas.

I see a Mac truck around town. They used to be pretty good but I don't know how they are now.

You seem to understand more than most people here do so I'm going to ask a question of you that you don't need to look up - just let me know if you already know the answer to the question from your own experience.

Craftsman only warranted the "hand" tools for life, which almost never break (unless you abuse them like by using a flathead screwdriver as a pry bar).

The screwdrivers do wear out a bit (especially the Phillips & Reed ones).

Unfortunately for me I do have a Craftsman ratchet that is sketchy. I'm sure something inside is worn or out of place. Do you know if it's even possible to get them replaced nowadays (perhaps by mailing them in to someone)?

If you don't know offhand, don't look it up for me. I can look it up. But if you do know, then just let me and everyone else know what you know.

Obviously both the lug bolts and lug nuts would need the same threading.

I broke a few of those reverse-threaded lug bolts on those Chryslers simply because I was unaware that one side was different from the other.

IT was a foreign concept to me at that time that there would be no obvious warning in that you were simply expected to either know the difference, or you were expected to figure it out (even if it was the first reverse-threaded bolt you'd ever encountered in your life).

I was ignorant. Luckily, ignorance can be cured quite quickly (nearly instantly, in fact).

I didn't use loctite (nor did I likely even know about it in those days) but what I loved was the gruff quick-responding auto parts counter guy cured my ignorance quickly - by telling me in no uncertain terms I was an idiot because _everyone_ knows that one side is threaded differently than the other!

That was quick education in curing my reverse-threaded ignorance for sure.

Even with the education the counter guy barked at me, I haven't encountered reverse-threaded lug bolts or reverse threaded lug nuts since, other than in that one early seventies Dodge I owned in addition to that first late sixties Chrysler.

Every once in a while though, I do run into reverse threaded connections. I can't think of any common ones offhand though.

What else in a vehicle of today is typically reverse threaded?

Years ago we used Craftsman and yes they do wear/break from time to time so we exchanged the failures once a year when buying new tools. Until Sears changed to 'catalog credit' rather than direct exchange; simultaneoulsy quality was dropping. Changed over to SnapOn and never looked back.

Regarding ratchet handles, yes there are rebuild kits but those change format every 10~15 years or so.

You may find vintage USA made SnapOn ratchets* at a price comparable to a rebuild kit.

*sold by children of dead mechanics, a nearly endless resource.

Usually only one part fails, so all you need to do is debug to that. But most people think debugging is harder than it really is, IMHO.

It's because they have the mentality of throwing parts at the problem. Instead of the mentality that should be taught which is to debug it first. a. Understand how the system works b. Segregate the system into testable components c. Isolate the one component that has failed

Replacing it is (usually - but not always) the easy part.

How many times have you seen someone ask on s.e.r how to fix a non-functional microwave and someone invariably claims you should replace the diode, without even explaining to that person how to debug if it's actually that diode?

How many times have you seen someone ask on r.a.t how to fix an overheated cooling system and someone claims you should replace the thermostat (without even explaining to that person how to debug to see if it is the thermostat)?

How many times have you seen someone ask on a.h.r how to fix a non starting electrical pump motor and someone tells him to replace the capacitor?

How many times have you seen someone ask how to fix a sputtering engine and someone claims you should pour seafoam into it (without even debugging)?

How many times has someone said their car wouldn't start and someone else immediately tells them to replace the battery or alternator (without debug)?

This almost complete and total lack of debug is pervasive everywhere.

While a _lot_ of things get fixed by "throwing parts" at them, I agree with you that "debugging is more complex" than just throwing parts at a car.

A classic example of where people throw parts is when they don't understand the system which is why debug starts with (a) understanding the system, and debug ends with (c) isolating the bad part.

What I was taught in the fifties was the process of debug is three steps. a. Understand b. Segregate c. Isolate

What I see people do instead is a single step (which might be three steps). a. Replace b. (If that didn't work) Replace (something else) c. (If that still doesn't work) Replace (another part)

You see this all the time with ABS related debug where they replace each wheel sensor or the ABS control modules or even brake components without first isolating the problem to the failed component.

Rarely is more than one component failed, right? That's a good question though to ask, philosophically speaking, on debug.

How often in your experience has the problem you're trying to fix been caused by multiple failed components?

That's a good quote where the threads you speak of are filled with either the rabit Democrats being completely ignorant of anything science related, and at the same time the rabid Republicans being just as completely ignorant that getting the highly modified genetic material injected into your arm causes your cells to explode making the spike protein which your body treats both as a "toxin" and an "antigen" - which is what the immune system eventually (a few steps down in the process that they don't understand) create short lived antibodies to (and other immune components, as the immune system is freaking complex by all accounts).

Perhaps a simpler way to summarize the politicized science problem set is

Rabid Democrats: It's your body my choice Rabid Republicans: It's my body my choice

Normal people: It's a difficult decision given the risk of death is almost zero (it's 99.8% likely you won't die in the USA overall and 99.9998% likely to survive if you're a child aged from 5 to 11 in the USA from October 2020 to October 2021 according to the CDC's own figures).

The science shows that most people (well more than half) don't even get any symptoms even as almost all of those people who are immune to the disease are seropositive (which is the case for _many_ immunities such as those to the common cold or the flu). Some, paradoxically, aren't even seropositive even as the virus itself has a relatively high human transmissibility.

However, enough of actual science. Nobody seems to care about the science.

Certainly science isn't what the rabid {Democrats,Republicans} care about though. They only care about the politics.

So far it seems _all_ the rabid {Republican,Democrats} are ignorant of the science (quite a few, frankly, are rather stupid - which can't be cured).

The end result though is a politicized scientific experiment. Rabid Democrat: I'm scared shitless of a disease so do what I tell you to! Rabid Republican: I'm scared shitless of the government so I don't trust you!

I want all the statements I make to be completely scientifically correct. Particularly since rabid {Democrats,Republicans} don't care about science.

Hence I apologize that I accidentally added an extra unnecessary "9" where the chance any one child has in the USA of not dying from Covid is 99.998%

a. Search term:

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First link:
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CDC says to vaccinate them.) c. Second link:
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CDC says kids have a 0.002% chance of dying from it.)

Obviously they don't care about the children per se. Because the risk of Covid to chidlren is less than that of the flu.

What they care about is the children infecting the adults.

Even so, any one adult has a 99.8% chance of not dying from Covid. However, even 0.2% of a big number is a lot of people overall.

For example, the risk to the United States is 0.2% of 350 million. That's about 700,000 people (which includes the already very sick).

But for any one individual in the USA, the risk is clearly 0.2%. Anyone claiming otherwise is simply ignoring the scientific facts.

The '55 was a two brush 6V generator. There was also a three brush 6V and eventually a 12V. There wasn't a starter motor so that simplified matters. I believe the Plymouth Valiant was the first car to use an alternator and most other companies followed suit in the early '60s. I'm not sure when bikes switched.

afaik, most bikes use stators. I know the '98 Harley does, and I'm positive the 2008 V-Strom does since I had to replace it. I can tell you getting the side cover back on with those magnets trying to suck in the stator core is fun. Both use a solid state regulator.

Conceptually, both generators and alternators produce 12 (or 6) volts DC sooner or later. Alternators had to wait for silicon diodes to catch up before being feasible for vehicles. Even then pressing out the diodes to replace them was somewhat common.

Dealing with the old 3 coil mechanical regulators is another skill that isn't in high demand these days, along with replacing brushes and stoning commutators. The fun factor is reduced. I had a Plymouth where the regulator points would weld occasionally, turning the generator into a motor. Turn off engine, listen for the generator trying to eat the belt, open hood, beat on regulator. Plan on a little quality time with a riffler file to clean up the points.

They never are. In spades with stupid claims about "genetic therapy" and how mRNA vaccines work.

I had a terminology brain fart which I apologize for.

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I'm not sure what a "lug" really is but it's probably the thing sticking out
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Hence a lug nut, I guess, terminologically speaking, goes on a lug. Whereas a lug bolt, I guess, properly speaking, goes into a lug hole.

I apologize for not being clear when I last posted between a. lug b. lug nut c. lug bolt

I'm ignorant, actually, of what you call the hole that a lug bolt goes into. And I'm not sure if the lug nut goes on what we'd call a threaded lug?

Does it? a. What is the threaded rod sticking out properly called? b. What is the threaded hole that is not sticking out properly called?

I apologize that I don't know the answer to a degree that I can be certain.

Outside afaik.

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I've got a dead one out in the shed if you need a paper weight. I'm saving it because it's cheaper to get it rewound if you provide a core. From the forums, the stator is one of the weaknesses on the earlier V-Stroms. Manufacturers have been providing more capacity since bikes, like everything else, have become electronics platforms.

One problem with FI is you don't get far without the electric fuel pump. I almost made it home...

The fewer thin long strong leverage tools you have (for the tensioners), the harder it is. But with a single long strong thin properly sized tool, it can be easy to keep the tension off the belt so that you can slip the belt onto the topmost pulley.

It's even harder if all you have are those fat harbor freight tools. It's one reason I will never go into a harbor freight store (or walmart).

The hard part I would guess is having a general purpose tensioner pry tool. What would that be?

I don't know as I had to put a pipe over my thinnest Craftsman socket wrench with a short socket over the 19mm tensioner "head" in order to slip the serpentine belt over a new alternator I just replaced.

That Denso alternator had two bracket bolts holding it into a single position on the FWD car so it wasn't even adjustable once those two 12mm and

14mm bolts were threaded in.

Maybe that's the kind of "abuse" though that broke my Craftsman hand tools.

Isn't an air-cooled two-stroke motorcycle kind of the same idea?

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