I noticed lately, that the clutch in my '95 Prizm grabs too soon, i.e. when the pedal is almost completely depressed. Shifting isn't as easy as a few weeks ago: sometimes the gear even gets stuck. What's the most likely problem?
Thanks for you help. I don't want to look like an easy victim when I speak to the mechanic.
Your clutch isn't disengaging enough when you depress the pedal. It could be as simple as needing an adjustment or some fluid, although the fact that it changed suddenly suggests it may be more serious than that.
Telling your mechanic what you said above about the clutch grabbing too soon and that shifting is harder than a few weeks ago should tell him what he needs to know and I don't think you'll look like an easy victim. I think you'll actually look pretty observant and good at communicating the problem you're having. :-)
There is no adjustment to a hydraulically actuated clutch. The OP should check the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder, which is next to the brake master cylinder.
So tell us, oh Wise Scott from Florida, what is your diagnosis of the problem?
What part of the clutch isn't disengaging soon enough do you disagree with? Or maybe we should say it's engaging too soon? Would that make you happier?
Does Toyota use Wonderclutches (TM) that are different from every other diaphragm clutch used in millions of other cars? They don't have pressure plates, throwout bearings, and don't engage with the flywheel?
Or are you confusing it with the clutch purse you carry when you're being a lesbian? :-)
Why would the OP telling their mechanic
make them look stupid?
I have a friend who's a mechanic and we've talked about how customers know nothing, and service writers are worse, etc. All he wants to know is a concise and accurate description of the symptoms of the problem. He can then diagnose it. He does not at all want the customer to diagnose the problem because it just wastes his time.
Oh, it's also possible that the clutch is badly worn, but the mechanic can quickly figure that out if adjustment or adding fluid doesn't solve the problem. I didn't see any point in the OP telling their mechanic this because it isn't clear that this is the real problem. You just tell the mechanic the symptoms and then (s)he does his or her job.
Yup, I'm old. When I started tinkering with cars, they had points and condensers, front drum brakes were common, power brakes and power steering were not standard on all cars, front doors had vent windows, seat belts did not include shoulder belts, rear defoggers, FM radios, and headrests were optional. Radial tires, stereo radios and 8-track tape players were the wave of the future. 2-speed automatics were common, all head lights were round.
Through the 1978 model year, no Toyota sold in the U.S., had an MSRP over $9,999. The 1979 1/2 Supra and Cressida were the first Toyotas that, when loaded with accessories, cost over $10,000, requiring a modification of the Monroney Label so that the $ sign was not obscured. The Supra and Cressida were also the first Toyotas sold in the U.S. with EFI.
I'm well-acquainted with a lot of that. I learned to drive on a '72 Mercury Monterey (in '76), we also had a '61 Ford Fairlane for 20 years, and I owned a '67 Chevy C-60 for a while too.
I think the Monterey had front disks and that was a big woo-hoo! item. :-) I think it may have also had shoulder belts in the front driver and passenger, although not the middle position or back seat.
The Fairlane and C-60 had power nothing (hehe), the Fairlane had three on the tree, and both had vent windows (those were great!). I'm not sure that seatbelts were even standard on the Fairlane, although ours had them. The C-60 had a 390 bigblock, a 5-speed Spicer tranny and a split rear axle. It was actually fun to drive.
FM radio? I didn't have one in a car until 1980. The Fairlane had a tube AM radio. :-)
I remember the Powerglides, although I never drove anything with one. A friend who built a small dragster used one I think.
I still have a use for round headlights. There used to be an organization for the blind that sold these troublelights they made. It was a round headlight, a rubber toilet plunger (just the rubber part), and a handlegrip for a bicycle, plus the wire, plug and stuff. (The headlight was inside the plunger and the grip stuck off the back where the wooden handle of the plunger would normally be.) I still use it occasionally.
Among the Big 3, I believe that Ford was an early adopter of disc brakes - my '68 Mustang had them.
I don't remember when shoulder belts became required equipment, my '72 Chevelle had them.
I remember the local Junior Achievement group selling trouble lights like you're describing although I have not seen the lights offered in a long time. I thought it was a clever design.
Just to comment quickly, my first car was a '72 Cadillac DeVille (boy, I'd be hating life if I still had that tank), and while there was a provision for a shoulder belt, one had to manually hook it into the connector for the lap belt before latching the belt. Apparently,
3-point belts weren't *quite* the rage at Cadillac yet.
You have reading comprehension problems that evidently go beyond politics.
Bull.
This whole thing is just more posturing on your part. You probably couldn't even point to the area of the car where the clutch is located, yet you presume to heckle me for providing advice.
Why don't you call a mechanic and ask what (s)he thinks? How about a few facts before you call names?
Tell them that a few weeks ago, the clutch started engaging too soon (at the bottom of the pedal travel) and it became hard to shift.
Ask for a likely diagnosis, and whether these observations are reasonable and useful or not.
My whole point was to reassure the other person that they were on the right track and that they had enough information to go to their mechanic with.
All you've been trying to do is cause trouble, and you've admitted you know _zero_, _nada_, _nothing_, about the topic at hand.
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