Camry shudders when accelerating

Check for moisture under the distributor cap.

If it runs, just drive / run it for a while until it drys out from the engine heating and airflow.

On a '91, some of the weather tight electrical connections may not be weather tight any longer.

Don't wash it anymore. You may want to mention this to the owner and have them take it to a competent mechanic to check components.

Hi there, I have checked the Distributor cap, and it is dry, although, the points of contact in the cap looks like it is wearing away, could this be the culprit?

How far do you think that will be? because I drove it for approx.

10km. and it still did it. I found out that it is a 92 Camry 1.8 fuel injection manual gearbox.

I am of the opinion it is a broken motor mount. My 1994 Camry had some strange symptoms similar to what you describe and was finally diagnosed correctly after several years.

It may be that the spark plug wires are just wet. I'm guessing since it's not your car, you don't know their age.

Let it dry out a day or so. That may do it.

the 1992 Camry has fluid-filled motor mounts. The fluid sometimes hardens or leaks out

Red lights mean that something needs immediate attention and the vehicle should not be driven until the source of the warning is identified and corrected. I can't picture what warning you are describing, but check the coolant level in the radiator and overflow bottle or post a link to a photo of the warning light.

I doubt if a bad petrol pump or idle speed control valve would cause the problems you are describing because the engine would not rev up.

Badgolferman suggested that a motor mount might be bad, and it is worth checking out, but I doubt if the problem would show up right after the engine was exposed to water.

Once the cause of the red light id corrected, drive the vehicle for about 30 or 40 km to dry out the ignition contacts in the distributor and ignition wires.

Check for vacuum leaks and make sure that the air filter housing latches are secured. Also check for cracks, holes, or gaps in the black plastic intake tube between the air filter housing and throttle body.

Check to make sure that all of the electrical connectors, particularly the throttle position sensor mounted on the bell crank where the throttle cable is connected to the throttle body.

AWESOME! Thanks for the reply! i will get to it right away and let you know!

-e

Another trick to try is to wait until dark, open the hood and start the car. Accelerate the engine and you may see ignition sparks flying along the coil, wires, plugs, or distributor. This trick will also work if you have trouble when the engine gets wet and stumbles. Again wait until dark, then just spray lightly each section of the engine and wait a few seconds. You'd be surprised where the arcs will fly!

Sounds logistical, will do for sure!

Thanks!

-e

I mentioned that the motor mounts are fluid-filled, but I doubt if that is the cause of the problem.

Do the spark trick in the dark first because it is easy.

Ok, then, I have checked the airfilter housing, the tube and distributor - no sparks, so "i guess" no leaks. It seems to pull better now that it stood to get drier (i just reversed it to feel if there's any difference), however the shudder is still there. I will take it for a slight drive around the block to feel it out. i have also checked the connection points around the ignition, fuel injection and ditributor. Something caught my eye - ther is a small black box near to the airfilter housing, and on it stands "Diagnosis". It looks like some sort of fusebox thing. I opened it and there was only one "fuse" inside, but alot of gooyee stuff on and around the "empty" plugs. I wiped it off a bit, but some of it is still there. Any suggestions as to what that could be? And more tips where to look for?

Thanks

-e

They "gooey stuff" in the diagnostic connector is dielectric grease, and you should not have wiped it off. The purpose of the dielectric grease is to prevent moisture from getting into the connectors when water splashes into the engine compartment or if someone sprays the engine compartment with a hose. If you have wiped most of it out, I would invest in a tube or can of dielectric grease and re-apply it to the connector. If the connectors still have a generous coating of grease, leave it alone.

If the engine is running better, then whatever connection the moisture got into may be drying out. If the engine stays the same, take the car to a competent shop and have it diagnosed. If the engine idles roughly, have the shop check the idle air control valve and clean if necessary.

Thanks Ray, I have booked it for Friday morning. Will let you know what was wrong!

Cheers

-e

You're welcome! Hopefully, it will be something minor!

MINOR IS NOT THE WORD...!!!

It was the spark plugs - When I washed the car, there was water that came in at the top (which is certainly not supposed to happen!) It was the first thing I wanted to check, but I didn't have the right tools, so I went on to check stuff that I had tools for. So, so obvious...

Well, thats it then, 'till next time.... or not!

-e

It's good to hear that your friend's car is running properly again. Keep that hose away from the engine compartment! ;-)

After you have driven in a rain storm, pop the hood afterward and look at all the water on your hot engine, if you believe that.. Better yet look under the hood after a snow storm as well. I once had a fan belt broken by all the snow under the hood driving in a bad storm ;)