Big problem installing new strut.....

Re: 1988 Camry 4 cyl station wagon:

The RH strut and CV half-shaft were worn out. I got the new CV half-shaft connected to the drive shaft, no problem. However I had to get a coil spring compression tool to re-compress the spring. Its the usual hex-head adjusting bolts and four clamp "hooks". Well, I see no way possible to get the strut reinstalled without some trick. The hooks have to go on the next-to end turn, of course, and there is only about 3/4 in. of the threads on the top of strut protruding through the big upper" washer" (or mount?) in which the top of spring rests. Maybe that is just enough to be able to start the strut nut on top.....maybe not. That was with the spring compressed as far as it can go. But worse than that, the strut tower is too narrow, so I can only raise the strut/ spring assy up until the adjusting bolt heads hit the edges of the strut tower/top of fender well....so the top of the strut is not quite high enough to enter the strut tower hole at all. It might be a half in. from even entering the hole. Yes, the bottom of the sring is oriented so that the tip- end of it is at the deepest part of the of the spring "cup" on the strut.

the only thing I can think of is that those hex-heads are very long, probably at least an inch.....so if I could grind them down to maybe 3/8 high, then maybe the strut would go on up through the strut tower hole. But those are really stout heax heads and would be a job for a machine shop. But'd have to see just how much higher the strut assy needs to go up into the strut tower, and then see if the heads can be ground down that much. THere must be some trick?? Becasue I know this is a common task, and I think the pro mechanics are using the same compression tool. Its got to be figured out, as I don't see how to even get it sent over to a mechanic shop with no wheel and strut on one side.

Regards, Geronimo

Reply to
geronimo
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Never mind....I located my Camry manual and I screwed up byremoving the strut assy without removing the shock support (three nuts holding it in). Shouldn't have even tackled that job without the manual directions. Geronimo

Reply to
geronimo

Yeah, I took out those struts and they were easy. Installed the excellent Gabriel Ultra with Monroe mounts. The Toyota mounts were squeaking like junk like TSBs describe so I am avoiding those. So what struts did you put back in?

Once raised and took off the wheel it's about 5 minutes of casual work to pull the front one (with Harbor Freight $10 2-ft 1/2" breaker bar and socket set). The three rear mounting nuts are harder to get at, so add maybe another 10 minutes for each of the rear struts.

The only concern I have is removing the strut rod nut without taking the load off the spring, at least that what the instruction says. Maybe to avoid damaging the rubber and cause it to delaminate from the steel housing?

Here is a free > Never mind....I located my Camry manual and I screwed up byremoving

Reply to
johngdole

How much do you know about alignment problems?

Yea, once I got on track from the manual I had the first one (RH) changed pretty quick, and since I already had a new CV half shaft on the LH side from a few months ago, I breezed through the LH strut in about an hour. I installed Autozone struts (lifetime), don't know what actual brand they are...hope they are not junk? The main thing that eats time is torquing down the coil spring and then releasing it. I took it right over to Pep Boys to have it aligned. The tech said that he aligned it to spec, and so there is not going to be any excess tire wear...problem is, the car is pulling a bit to the left even with alignment set correctly. YOu have to keep constant pressure on the wheel. He said it is because there is an incorrect tension or load (or twist?)...something to that effect....on the LH coil spring and it is causing it to pull to the left. At least he THINKS it is the LH side causing it. So I am going to just live with the pulling to one side for a while until I get my Volvo fixed, then take the strut out and try again. THey wanted $250 to fix the problem! I have a 1 yr warranty on the alignment so it will not cost anything to bring it back for realignemnt after I mess with it again.

Problem is I d>Yeah, I took out those struts and they were easy. Installed the

Reply to
geronimo

What little I know: Alignment is tricky on today's cars because of four wheel independent suspension. All of them have to line up in the right direction(s). Fortunately, on later cars less and less are adjustable. For minor adjustments (like compensating for older struts/ springs) I actually manually tweak the toe-ins so the front tires are parallel and track straight with the steering wheel centered.

Of course, doing this is based on having a good alignment to begin with and I tweak 1-3 mm at a time measured on the tie rod end with marking on masking tape. No kidding. This is the kind of thing I wouldn't recommend trying at home however.

I had bad experiences with major tire centers' alignment techs and machines. They give you printouts telling everything is in line, but the car pulls, etc. Then I realized that the techs who do the alignment and good alignment machines are both critical. Because two OK printouts, from the same machine, done by two different techs can make your car pull in different directions! Ask how I know. But now I know a good local shop with a calibrated Hunter alignment machine and for $60 it's a good deal. Yes these thing need periodic calibrations.

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For the occasional alignment, if you can't find a good local tech and a calibrated Hunter machine, just go to the dealer. Even check Ford or Honda dealers with Hunter machines and see if you can get your Camry done for $69-89. They'll have all the cars' data in the computer anyways. I'm sure it'll be a safer bet than Pep Boys, but given what I know about dealer techs, no guarantees.

If you are sure the brakes aren't binding (really hard to tell) and the wheel bearings are OK, then what little owners can do:

  1. Measure vehicle ride height. Both sides of an axle should be within
1/4 of an inch. If more than that you may need new springs (about $50 each).

  1. The mounts, rubber spring seats, upper and lower, are in good condition. The rod nut should never be tightened/loosened without relieving the spring tension with the compressors to avoid damaging the rubber in the mounts.

  2. Measure front tire toe-ins with a measuring tape on level ground (the toe-ins change with inclination). Helps to have two people, measure as close to the mid point of the wheel as possible. Measurements from the front of the (front) wheels and rear of the wheels should be equal (for later models at least).

See an example, "Everything Auto: DIY Wheel Alignment" by Tom Morr

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  1. The strut and particularly the strut mount should line up according to the manual before the install. When you tighten down on the rod nut and then release the spring tension the mount may turn a bit. So you have to anticipate and compensate for this (and may cause you to compress a few times like I did). The arrows on the mount and on the upper spring seat/boot (if there are arrows on the 88, otherwise you'll have determine orientation), the bolts on the mount, and the strut itself should line up in the way specified in the manual.

  1. I never did this but would think the height of the strut assemblies should be the same on both sides while you have them out.

  2. IMO, there is no substitute for a good alignment shop and calibrated machine at a low price!

Good luck.

Reply to
johngdole

BTW, the front mount rotates in a slanted plane and can be off but still be mounted. So with the bolts on the mounts, upper spring seat, and the big mounting knuckle should all point in the right direction as the manual specifies.

That's why alignment is so important. For fuel economy and yes the tires (Michelins) are becoming very expensive these days.

Reply to
johngdole

Maybe where I screwed up is that I didn't set the upper spring mount in any particular direction/orientation. Does it have to be? It looked symmetrical to me around 360 deg. I don't recall the manual specifying any certain orientation, although it did explain about the strut mount (with the three mtg. bolts) having to be in a certain orientation (since the bolts are no equally spaced). I read the receipt from Pep Boys and it says that the pulling to the left is due to the left spring being "twisted". I don't know, maybe this is only a good story for covering up that they just couldn't get it right with factory spec adjustment, and were't going to spend extra time to find an adjustment that *would* track straight. Anyway the pulling is only slight, so I may just live with it. THe bill from Pep Boys was a whopping $106, so I don't care to spend still more for another alignment! It was Sunday, it had to be done right away, so I didn't have any options about where to take the car.

On Sun, 05 Aug 2007 15:11:14 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

Reply to
geronimo

At least on later models the upper spring seat (both the metal and upper rubber seat/boot) has arrows imprinted on it. And yes, all these plus the mount, which you already know, need to be in the correct orientation.

If the left spring being "twisted", then it won't be hard for you to get a visual on it, right? And if so, the ride height I would think should be off the spec (.25"-.5"?) But this should be an easy check I would think.

Since you paid for it, it should be free for you to ask the tech to clarify what "twisted" spring means.

During the mean time maybe just keep an eye on the wear pattern and take the car back in after a few months to have it "routinely checked" for free. Maybe at another Pep Boys.

Reply to
johngdole

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