Nifty trick for power driver's window <Caveat Emptor!>

Hachi,

That is nifty. Clever of you to figure that out. Thanks for the tip.

What I want to try is this though: copy my Lexus. My GS430 has autoup and autodown on all 4 windows. It incorporated a pinch protector on each. I need to study how all of it works and perhaps do the same to my other cars. Once you have it, you get a bit spoiled. My initial guess is that I'd have to buy the relay for it along with whatever the sensor is. Does anyone know?

Logic would say a load relay within the motor control assy. Shouldn't be hard to duplicate.

How do you activate the auto-up feature, can you still raise the window part way up?

-- Tony Marsillo Nutmeg Repair

If you already have Auto Down, just push the same button used for down. Perhaps I should explain better. On the two cars I did, the standard window lift button was located as a paddle *inside* the auto down switch. So, the paddle switch was used to raise and lower the window normally, and surrounding this paddle switch was the auto down option. It is on the surrounding switch you wat to remove the tab. In all honesty, for systems with 1 switch that performs both functions, I'm not sure. I would venture to guess there is a similar method that would involve removing the switch totally.

LOL! I always did have to ph@ck with things!

This I don't know. I would guess that it could be done on a two window (coupe) by installing a switch similar to the driver's side. I don't know the method for the pinch protector, by I would guess it does it by current limiting. I noticed when I tested my window, you can hear a 'click' when the motor bogs down...

That's precisely what I was theorizing. Thanks, Gary.

Gary Burnore's response had the same indication. I suppose I should try by purchasing the repair manual and electrical diagram.

I've studied the diagram on my 89 cressida and the limiter is a part of the motor control. There is no sensor on the window frame. Had My wife's camery (06) open on the drivers side to put the window back in the track (she hit something with the mirrior). There's no sensoron that one either.

They are way too old to have it fitted. This is a modern safety feature seen on cars younger than around six years. It was introduced due to injuries and death with vehicles fitted with the old system, the older of which do not even retract the windows to ease pressure but just stop the window while maintaining the pressure that caused it to stop. This is no longer acceptable and windows must retract after stopping.

Huw

Huw

Ah yes, for the people who leave their kids in the car with the keys in the ignition. Forgot about those. :)

Is there any other good reason for any safety feature for side window lift?

Huw

pinch protector on

my other cars.

The GS430 uses Toyotas latest system which involves small door ECMs in each door and sensors built into each window motor that features auto-up. (in your case, all of them)

Each motor has an internal switch and a pulse generator.

The switch reads a rotating section inside the motor. The switch is electrically closed until the window almost reaches the door frame, then it opens. This is so the ECM knows to expect the window is going to stop under normal circumstances. Just as a further FYI, the motor must be installed a certain way and a learning procedure must be performed so that the door ECM sees it open near the window's upper limit of travel.

The pulse generator output sends a 12 volt square wave to the ECM any time the motor is moving. If the ECM detects a significant slowing down of this signal, then it reverses the polarity of the motor power and lowers the window a little to save the child or dog or whatever.

It would be hard to copy this system, but you could design a current sensing circuit and relay for the entire power circuit (simpler) or for each window (better) that would cut out at a given amperage. I think when window motors start to stall you would see about 5 amps @ 12 volts. Fully stalled I think I have seen about 14 amps, but that's testing a system with a problem already, so YMMV.

Toyota MDT in MO

That dual switch setup you're refering to has been out of use on Toyota for probably 10 - 15 years, so it wouldn't be likely other companies used it in recent years. A great tip about doing that though. I would have never thought to try it. Those switches are known for the vertical part that sticks out (paddle) breaking off, so on alot of the ones still around these days, a customer just might like the auto up mod as an easier way to lift the window -- as opposed to jamming his fingernail in the remaining switch carnage.

Toyota MDT in MO

Oooh, interesting. I know the JDM '90-94 celicas have auto up and down, whereas the UK ones have only auto down. I was going to change the switch unit but I'll try this first! Any idea if its the same on the passenger side as thats neither auto up or down - maybe a two tab removal?

Cheers James

Huw, Saw a clip on one of the Funniest Home Video shows where a guy was leaning in the drivers' window of his girlfriends car. While talking to her or something one of them accidentally hit the up switch on the window. He almost choked to death before anyone calm enough to retract window came around. It could have damaged his throat or worse, but it was funny since he came out of it ok. davidj92

Looking on the positive side, at least the cut-out worked because his head was still attached to his body even if no one had been there to rescue him before he choked to death.

Huw

I bet it would have won first place had the head rolled towards the camera, making the camera person slip and fall. :)

I don't believe so. On the Auto models (at least that I have seen) there is an addition to the regular swith that provides the function. Also, look at the switch; you'll see it's different. There is a soleniod (or some similar mechanism, electrically controlled) in there. Even on the driver's side switch itself, the switch for the driver's window and the passenger's window are different.

Try this:

and look in the section BE (Body Electrical). It may be explained in there. This is for a '90 Supra, BTW, but a similar vintage car probably uses a similar system. After looking at the wiring diagram (Section D, I believe) I saw they were wired the same. That gave me the idea...