Well, I got it done.
I removed both skid plates. Yes, Bill, they are metal skid plates. As it turns out, I really didn't have to remove them, but there is know way of knowing that until after I had. The forward plate has a bracket so that when I put the hydraulic jack against it (in precisely the right part), the force of the jack is transmitted through the skid plate into the frame.
The oil pan is above the rearward skid plate, but there's an oval access hole covered by a plastic cap. I would say it's about 4" across and 8" long. It pops right out giving access to the drain plug. Next time, I'll know.
I had a little difficulty removing the OEM oil filter. It is slightly smaller in diameter than the Fram filter I bought to replace it. I called the parts store before proceeding to ensure I had the right filter. The person I talked to said that it was not uncommon for the OEM filter to be a slightly different diameter than an aftermarket filter. Well, that was fine except that I did not have a oil filter wrench that fit the OEM filter. I drilled a couple of holes in my (slightly too large) oil filter tool, put it over the oil filter, drove a couple of #12 screws into the oil filter and it came right out. This is a much messier job when the oil filter is right side up. DAMHIK. The mess occurred when I removed the oil filter. I guess either I should have been slower, allowing the filter to drain back into the hole or quicker so that I could flip the oil filter upright as soon as possible. Anyway, I spilled oil down in the engine compartment. It probably would have hit the garage floor if it wasn't for that (now lubricated) skid plate.
So, now service number 1 is under my belt. It would have been a lot easier if I had a Chilton's. Does anyone know how far back model runs where they are "close enough" to the 2004 for the manual to be reasonably accurate?
I've got to say, after examining the underneath of this vehicle, it sure looks well built. I'm very impressed how it's put together.
Regards,
Bill