Intermittent starting problem

A 2007 T.Tacoma with only 60,000 miles is occasionally not starting on cold mornings.
It gives a single click, but does not turn over. A few times it has started
on the third of fourth turn of the key. Usually I use a "jumpstarter" portable battery pack and that does it first time.
This only is a problem on the first start in the morning, usually when it is <50deg.
One of the Toyota forums has pictures and instructions to install a starter repair kit.
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1st-gen-tacomas/178029-how-remove-install-starter-fix-clicking-starter-2-7-liter-3rz-fe-engine.html
http://compare.ebay.com/like/220749985903?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar
The thing is, I doubt that the jumpstarter would make any difference on a bad starter.
I'm willing to replace the starter or the solenoid, but want to be sure that is what is needed. Battery tests good and has 6 years left on warranty. All the visible connections look good.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

You say that the battery tests good. Is this on a load test or howdid you test it ?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

One of those $20,000 computerized testers at the dealer.
Test code 9mg274-881455-80 whatever that means.
I insisted that the battery must be defective because the truck starts with the jumper, and they replaced the battery even though it tested good. No problems for 2 weeks and now it has not started 2 days in a row.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Stumpy posted for all of us...
And I know how to SNIP

How does the battery test now? Maybe the alternator is not up to the job or a ground/bonding strap is loose, corroded or missing.
--
Tekkie

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

The battery has a full charge. This is acting like a low charge situation, but I don't think it is. All the cables and wires look clean and solid. This is still a low mileage vehicle.
I am considering just replacing things and crossing my fingers. If I give it to the dealer, they only get one shot every 24 hours for it to fail.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

How was the battery tested? I'd bet on a bad battery or a bad connection at the starter if a boost starts it. My suspicion is a thermally sensitive bad interlink connection if the battery connections have been properly cleaned and tightened. They can LOOK perfect and still be bad.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

It was a computerized load test sequence. When it's done they hand you a little printout that says "bad" or "good". Mine lists:
12.85 V 772 CCA Rated 710 CCA Temp 74 deg.
Would you get a thermally sensitive bad interlink connection at 40 - 50 deg.? It's not even freezing.
I just noticed the time of the test is 8:30 AM. My non-starts are all before 7:00 AM
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

I've had batteries that 10 degrees C made all the difference in the world - and the Midtronics tester could not find it.
If a midtronics type tester says a battery is bad, it is. If it says it is good, there can still be problems. 2 batteries with the same problem makes it less likely - but not impossible. Remave and clean all the battery cable connections and torque them properly on re-assembly.. The other POSSIBLE problem is high resistance on the control side - which USUALLY causes problems on HOT starts, not cold - but stranger things have happened. Can you get a remote starter button and connect it to the solenoid connection and battery cable? See if it starts better that way. There is about 16-20 feet of thin wire, as well as the ignition switch and safety (clutch or neatral) switch, as well as several connectors in that circuit - and that starter solenoid draws a couple of amps - so ANY voltage drop can affect the starter operation. Used to be a fairly common problem on the TE5 and TE7 series Corollas. I used to put a starter relay from a late sixties Mopar across the solenoid, and trigger IT with the factory wiring. Solved EVERY ONE of those (in this case hot) starting problems.
If the remote starter switch does not make it start, that is NOT the problem, and you COULD have a solenoid contact problem or a sticky brush problem on the starter. The contact kits are fairly readily available now compared to back in the seventies and could be worth while
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

It might be worth getting one of those remote starting switches. Never looked at one before. It's been a long time since I had to stick a screwdriver across the solenoid contacts, ~1984.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I made a remote starter switch with an O'Reilly 20amp switch, some heater cord and jumper clips. Wore myself out crawling around on my back, then jacked up the front left side so I could stick my arms in the side over the wheel. Broke 2 of the grommets on the rubber mud shield. I thought that I could semi-permanently install the homemade switch as a backup on top of the existing wires. It won't work. Toyota has those plastic connector covers to protect the terminals.
I'm gonna leave it at the dealer. This is too much of a pain in the ass to do myself. Too bad, because the starter pushbutton duct taped to the dash would have been an interesting custom feature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1st-gen-tacomas/178029-how-remove-install-starter-fix-clicking-starter-2-7-liter-3rz-fe-engine.html
http://compare.ebay.com/like/220749985903?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar
Off the wall ideas.
1) bad/intermittent connection between the negative battery terminal and either the block or the chasses.
quick check connect a jumper cable between the block then chassis and the nag term of the battery.
2) partial short/open in one or two legs of the alternator rectifier system.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I've double-checked battery connections and ground wire.
The alternator/rectifier is keeping the battery charged.
I think I want to make a remote start switch just because it's cool. If Radio Shack doesn't have a 10 amp momentary switch, O'Reilly has one for $16. Looks like I could use it to launch a rocket or something.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Still does not preclude a partially functional alternator and more importantly one that can discharge a battery when the engine is off.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

EXTREMELY easy to check that, Connect voltmeter set to AC volts - should show less than 1 volt.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I don't see the logic of your test.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

A bad diode will put ripple on the DC. The ripple is read by the AC Voltmeter. It is a test that goes all the way back to 1960 and the introduction of the alternator on Chrysler products at that time.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:>>>>>

Might then again might not put a measurable ripple on the DC much depends on the load and the battery condition.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Well, in over 35 years I have yet to find one with a bad diode I did not catch, or a good one I called bad
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca posted for all of us...
And I know how to SNIP

Don't confuse him with actual logic and knowledge...
--
Tekkie

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
To see website on Toyota Europe http://lorauris.free.fr

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Site Timeline

Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.