Thanks for all the input here. It is very useful and educational. I've decided to install the cooling flaps and thermostat although I live in SoCal. Has anyone used this conversion kit?
Thanks, John
GBE has them.
He does indeed have parts. I don't know how to find the parts I need, through. He references VW line codes. Is there a lookup chart someplace that lists the line codes for the cooling tin parts for a 71 Type 2?
Specifically, I need the part labeled #4 in the Bentley's Official Service Manual for Station Wagon /Bus, 68-79, Chapter 6, Engine and Clutch, Figure 6-4. This part is called "Air Duct Lower Part (Left)" on the figure.
And I need two of the #8 Air Hose Rubber Grommets.
BTW, this link:
Yeah, that page is tough to use without the actual diagrams. ;-)
Hmm. My Bentley 1200 Type 11, 14, and 15(1961-1965) probably won't be any help...
These fit around the 2" air hose where it passes through the tin, right?That would be VW 113-119-585B "Heater tube rubber seal" in the Berg Catalog.
Looking at the diagram in the GBE catalog, that is the "3/4 sideheater box air shield", part number VWB040-119-3515 in the Berg catalog.
Kewl. Moving on to more exciting parts, can someone tell me what this part sold by aircooled.net is?
"Mike Rocket J. Squirrel Elliott" wrote
On page 2 at the link below, the left side part is item 40. I don't see the right one there but it's the corresponding piece for the right side.
Again, on page 2 at the below link, it's item 39.
hth
-- Scott
Here's item 40. Only visible from above because I have a Baja.
http://63.230.74.177/misc/flaps/MVC-006F.JPG Max
"Scott H" wrote
BTW, Mike .... to the best of my knowledge, these parts, the under cylinder deflectors .... on a T1 engine, cannot be installed without removing the head, pushrods, pushrod tubes, etc. They are vitally important parts and need to be in place. I've only built one engine (and only a top end build at that ... and disassembled two ), so wait for the smart guys to confirm that.
-- Scott
I have installed these deflector plates while the emgine was in the car. I cut them in half, slipped the pieces in their place and spot welded them back together while holding them in place. Nasty job.
Another time I cut them in half too, then pop riveted an extension "lip" on one half, and drilled holes ready for the pop rivets on the opposite side, then slipped the halves in one at a time, and lined them up behind the pushrod tubes and pop riveted them togehter.
Still no fun.
The easiest solution would be to remove rocker assembly and pushrods, then cut the pushrod tubes in half so you can remove them... then install the air deflector plates intact.. then put spring loaded pushrod tubes in (good quality, not those cheap nylon tubes) and put the pushrods back, as well as the rocker assembly. Two extra bonuses come from this: You get to fix leaking pushrod tube seals, and you get to adjust your valves. (yes, at least check teh clearances again)
Jan
You are not a chilean mechanic :) my engine had one of those with the legs cut out, and wired to one of the head studs...
You're kidding?
Jeepers.
Crikey. How about I take a bunch of photos all around the engine, top and bottom, fore and aft, while it is in the bus and you experts look at them and tell me what parts appear to be missing? It's one thing for me to even contemplate pulling the engine to stuff the flaps in, it's quite another for me to pull off heads, cut tubes, and other major surgery.
not a bad idea...snap to it...LOL
It's one thing for me
if you can pull the engine(childs play) you can do the *minor* surgery that was suggested....it really is *easier* than it sounds...
------------------- Chris Perdue
*All opinions are those of the author of this post* "Sometimes you're the windshield, sometimes you're the bug"
Friggin' well better be. If it's not, I'll hunt you guys down and whip you with the old veeblefetzer belt.
LOL...Mike, don't worry....you *can* do it...
------------------- Chris Perdue
*All opinions are those of the author of this post* "Sometimes you're the windshield, sometimes you're the bug"
... but THAT trick never works!
Here's some close-ups of the leetle clips that hold the tie-bars on the shutter arms, 3 per side.
http://63.230.74.177/misc/flaps/MVC-007F.JPGhttp://63.230.74.177/misc/flaps/MVC-008F.JPGhttp://63.230.74.177/misc/flaps/MVC-009F.JPG Max
Right, Chief. We'll need to talk about this privately. Lower the Cone of Silence.
Look like the Fahnstock clips that were commonly used for breadboarding electronic projects in my boyhood.
Okay, so what I am seeing is that there are about 8,234 bits and pieces, some smaller than a grain of rice, required to get the cooling working.
Hey now. Them specks are perfectly servicable dirt. And you counted them. ;-)
That last shot was taken by leaning over the engine's right "shoulder" from the rear and shooting down. So you are seeing the forward side of the shroud from above.
http://63.230.74.177/misc/flaps/MVC-009Fa.JPG In the highlighted area are the control rods of the right-side shutter assembly. Also visible (extending off towards the left) is my home made aluminum tie-bar.
Max
I bought those clips new from Gene Berg last year and was amazed at how strong they are. They carry some of the hard to find stuff such as these clips, the spring, the little fastening hardware for the thermostat rod. It's worth it to do the job right.
RT
This I believe. The trick, I think, will be for me to come up with an accurate and comprehensive shopping list of the correct parts for my model/year, while remembering that this is not the original engine (it's a new 1776) so I can have everything on hand before pulling the engine. I understand that there is some degree of variability on some of the parts.
Is there a consensus on whether creating such a list before disassembly is practical enough to consider going that way? Or so unlikely to be entirely accurate that I had just better find a temporary car to use while the parts I guessed wrong on are replaced with the correct parts?
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