Where's the hesitation from?

It's the 009. The Weber does not make it any easier to set up, a proper heated manifoild helps.. Check out

J.

Redline K1410 has the heated manifold.

No problem, David! I got my hesitation from a single 40 Weber. Got to say that it was the best hesitation I've ever got. Highly recommended to ruin your street driving. ... oh, you already have one? Sorry, I realy can't recommend anything more to ruin your ride except maybe pulling a plug or two.

Is that the carb you have? If it is, then never mind what I said. I was thinking of another weber setup that had a massive manifold (heated, nicely, though).

n/p ;)

The heat on it is ok. The top rear of the manifold will be a bit cool after some highway cruising compared to just down a few inches, but not near cold.

I think I found something to read while I decide what to do about a distributor:

Here's the one that troubled me so:

You will need a svda (single vacuum, double advance) dizzy to easily tune out the flat spot. It can be done by mech advance also, but takes either a very expensive dizzy or a lot of tweaking.

As an experiment you can reduce the max advance of the 009 by limiting the travel of the weight, then set it to aprox 28-32 deg BTDC @ 3000+. This will give you an higer initial advance at idle, and the car might be hard to start, however if the flat spot goes away you have proved you can tune it out with an fully adjustable mech only dizzy like a Mallory..

J.

The 009, like many other mechanical things that first don't appear to be, is ADJUSTABLE. And should BE adjusted.

Jan

I've done enough tweaking this week ;) This looks good:

Thanks for the advice. I didn't know all this tuning was a multi-part affair. I knew I'd need to play with things to get best performance/efficiency, but not to squish a rather nasty dead-spot.

...AC. net has a specifically recurved dizzy with proper pot to work with your progressive for $119.95 ...its a little better pricewise anyways. =-)

Sounds good, I'm getting frustrated in city traffic fighting the bog that I can't trim-out with jetting.

...when you order the dixzzy...might want to include your jet sizes that you have now....John is very good a reccomendations on such things and prolly help you if they are still slightly off to get a combionation that will work good for your application. Just be sure to give him adequate info such as engine size, cam, elevation, e6tc to work with. ;-)

...Gareth

hehe.. just sent an email off to snipped-for-privacy@aircooled.net just before I got your post ;)

Just as a follow-up, I'm still going to play with the DFEV carb until I'm absolutely sure I've got that right. Next is the accelerator pump jet. As it came, I have a 0.55 mm jet. A 60 and 65 are now on order, as it's not a stock item my local buggy hut has on their shelves. I guess no one messes around with pump jets?

This garage around the corner has a chassis dynometer they use for CA emission testing. I'll ask the owner what he can do for me and my modified pre-emission engine to help me suss this out ;)

Just hooked up an O2 sensor and gauge for AF ratio, and lo and behold...

It's the damn carb. I need to up my idle jet like *5* sizes.. Whoa! and use smaller mains, too. Idle itself is rich (so what, just run smooth), then coming off idle it peaks off the scale lean, then when the main of the primary hits, it's rich again. The transition ports are run off the idle jet. And are way a** lean! Once I'm on the mains of the primary (1/3 pedal), it hangs around 12:1, which is a bit rich, but not too bad. The bog range between idle and 1/3 travel peaks over 19:1 and is out-of-range. For streetability, that's where one does most of the pedal.

So I'm wondering if it is common for other users of a Weber 32/36 DFEV (progressive) to even venture into the HUGE range of idle jets around .090 or .100 from the stock .060 ??

One thing I noticed, since swapping to headers is that the temperature of the manifold has dropped due to, I guess, how the return pre-heat pipe is not fed into the muffler (stock), but into the exhaust outlet of cylinder #2. Possibly not creating a flow.

The manifold temp theory might be correct. If I need to use HUGE idle jets, this may be an indication of a cold manifold? Anyone?

After some highway driving, the top back of the manifold is 75 degrees F and an inch or so down it's about 100 degrees.

Is this too cold? Most docs I read indicate 100-140 degrees is optimum. Is that about right?

I'm eying this:

I was sitting back keeping my mouth shut, hoping I was wrong and maybe I am but it ain't the carb (neccessarily), it's the manifold. It's just too honkin big to have decent vacuum at low RPM.

Now I have a choice. Increase pre-heat by re-routing the return to not feed into the #2 exhaust and/or keep uping the idle jet and skip 75,80,85 and go right to a 90.

I'll try option #1 and hack apart a stock muffler's pre-heat return pipe and put it on headers in some manner...