Dat Ol' Broken Stud

use whatever tool suits the job, to clean the end of the broken stud. It has to be shiny. Then place a nut (M6 is the correct size, but may be too small for this purpose, M8 will do too) over it, hold it in place, and weld teh nut to the remains of the broken off stud. Let it cool, and use a wrench to turn the stud out slowly. At this point you can try some penetrating oil too. The beauty in this trick is, that the weld doesn't stick to the aluminum around the offending stud. The heat from the welding would help break the rusty stud free too.

Jan

That's it. I've bought end wrenches, sockets sets, torque wrenches. Special 17mm allen driver. A pulley puller. Borrowed a friend's compressor and air tool and 36mm socket. An odd gadget to pull the old oil filler. Feeler gauges. Vice grips. An ATV lift and fabricated a wood cradle for it to hold the engine. Metric tap and die set. A Johnson rod alignment kit that the fellow at the FLAP shop said I was sure to need someday soon. But a welding outfit? For one broken stud? No, I have to draw the line somewhere. The head is just going to have to live with that broken stud.

Then do the second best, and still very aceptable fix: Flatten the end of the broken stud somehow, then hit it right in the middle with a sharp metal punch to make a "guide" mark for a sharp, new drill bit of 5mm diameter... then drill the offending stud out. Try to drill straight. Then see if the remainder of teh stud would come out somehow. Do NOT use easy-out bits or similar (They are worthless unless the bolt was loose enough to be turned out with simpler tools that won't snap and get stuck in the hole you just drilled).

Finish off by drilling the hole to appropriate size to accept a 6mm tap, then tap away to get new threads. No need for helicoil thread inserts, no need for good quality threads either. The tiny bolt is there just to hold the tin in place, so it will never be subjected to heavy loads or stress.

Coat the new bolt threads with copper paste before driving it in.

Jan

Hey! I've understood that it is not recommended to use impact air tools=20 to open or tighten the flywheel gland nut.=20

Okay, okay, you're right. Picked up a flywheel locking thing this morning and some pipe to put on the breaker bar. Now the flywheel is locked, the math has been done to determine how far out on the bar I need to put my whole weight and I'm ready to go. Except figuring out how to keep the engine from turning when I put my weight on the bar. It's just sitting on an chunk of wood on an ATV stand. More research is indicated.

Use Inge on the pipe and hold the engine down yourself.=20

Pretty much what we did. Used the removable "T" handle from the ATV lift across the engine mount bolts at the pulley end to apply anti-rotation torque.

See, that's why I bolt a big bar to the flywheel to do this. The end of the bar transfers the torque directly to the floor and the engine doesn't flop around.

Max

Yep yep yep. When I need to pull the engine again I'll find me a nice big bar, too. Remember the days when hardware stores carried big ol' iron bars and angles. Welding shop or something is probably the place to find such things now.