engine running?

Next time it quits, take the top of the carb off (5 screws). CAREFUL if the engine is hot because some fuel may spill. If the bowl is full of fuel (fuel level should be about 3/4" below the rim) then you do NOT have a fuel starvation problem.

Does it die when the choke finally opens fully? Could be the idle mixture is too lean.

Last , it may be clogging in the carb. If you can make it idle (with choke open) for a little while, very, very slowly open the throttle by hand. Engine speed should increase smoothly. If instead you find a "dead zone" where speed drops off or goes up and down (races) I would suspect dirt in the idle passages.

Speedy Jim

Check to see if you kinked/pinched the hard fuel line when you were working on the clutch. Doug

I would check intake manifold connections,the key words about after re-installation the motor has problems.Muscling a motor into place will sometimes lead to leaks-manifold to head or more common the boots on DPs.Spray check at idle or a little above and listen for RPM change.Also exhaust.Steve

Thanks guys but no help yet. I had already looked at the float level and it was fine. I took off the intake manifolds checked them out and put them back...no help. I checked the boots on the tubes and when I checked the fuel line for bockage I also looked at the hard fuel line and it was fine.

I also did the spray test and could see no evidence of RPM increase/decrease.

The one thing I haven't done is look to see if there is blockage in the idle jets. The bad thing is, I can not get it to idle even for a minute. Am about to admit defeat and take it to a mechanic. I hate that!

Thanks again guys.

Rog

Maybe there is crud in there. Can you keep it running half-assed by pumping the throttle lever? If you can, then take off the air cleaner, get the engine up to some speed and quickly put something tight and flat (like your hand with a heavy rubber glove) over the carb and kill the engine. Maybe it will suck some stuff out of the circuits.

"buggrn 74" wrote

Have you checked to see that the gas tank is vented properly? If it's not vented it could be starving the engine. Try running it with the gas cap loosened to see if it makes a difference. If so, the tank is not venting. Or, run it with the cap tight and when it tries to die, pull over and loosen the cap ... if you get a "whoosh" as the tank sucks air in, you've got a venting problem.

hth

-- Scott

check your electro-magnetic idle shutoff solenoid....make sure you ahve twelve volts going to it from the hot side of the coil, and check to see that it actually works...with the power on, disconnect adn reconnect the wire to it a few times...you will hear it "click" if it is working properly...also check that it is screwed in tight to the carb...if it is not, you get intermittant operation of the solenoid adn an air leak...

------------------- Chris Perdue

*All opinions are those of the author of this post* "Sometimes you're the windshield, sometimes you're the bug" reply take your PANTS off

..................I was just about to suggest that. Sometimes known as a Mexican tuneup, it can be done several times until it works! My only reservation about doing it is that the raw gas isn't doing those rings & cylinder walls much good.

......... I wonder if removing the rocker arms and then hooking up a shop vac to the throat of the carby would.........uh.......wait a minute.........maybe the gas should be replaced in the carb with something that won't explode when it gets to that shop vac motor.

I don't know how mechanically inclined you are(sounds like you know some),but a new(spare) carb is a handy thing to have in the mix.One on the car and one in waiting(new or rebuilt).It is a stock carb,isn't it?This also assures that the one on the car will always work.It's the part that you don't have a spare for that breaks.Seriously,dirty idle jets does sound right.Steve

Thanks for the suggestions! I will check those things out. Am at work right now but will try them this week.

Rog

How about the screen in the gas tank?