Faster engine warmup question. Help Please!

A very bad piece of advice!

Make sure your thermostat and shutters/flaps are working properly, and warm-up time will be normal.

The aircooled engine should not be let idling for long either(At startup that is). The best procedure is to let idle for 30-60 sec and then drive away at lower revs until operating temp is reached. This ensures the quickest warm-up with the least wear.

J.

I agree, very bad idea!

You were right about the carbon monoxide, but that's not all.

The engine needs to take a certain amount of time to warm up. There are different metals sandwiched together, and they all rely on carefully controlled warmup. The parts need to warm up in a certain order, and at a certain designed rate. Some parts need to warm up faster than others, to keep the thermal expansion under control. ALL the parts need to be in place and fully functional, for all of the system to warm up RIGHT. You want it RIGHT, not too slow, not too fast. Otherwise you will have all sorts of problems, like oil leaks, pulled or stripped head studs, various nuts and bolts loosening up, more wear, less power, poor driveability, and shorter lifespan.

But wouldn't the heated air entering the fan shroud simulate Summertime conditions?

I am not going to remove the big curved tin cover. On windy days, when I am stopped at a red light, sometimes a tail wind pushes exhaust fumes through the deck lid louvres. The CO2 gets sucked into the fan shroud and pushed into the cabin. Maybe I should close the heater temp. lever when I am stopped or not use the heater at all. I am considering getting a CO2 meter from amazon.com to use inside the car.

My engine doesn't have a thermostat or flaps. I live in So. Ca. and it was about 38 degrees this morning. Today, I let it warm up for a few minutes. Without the thermostat and flaps, how long should I let the engine warm up? Especially when its real cold.

Eddie

-1965 Sedan

P.J.Berg wrote:

How about using a smaller diameter than stock 'power pulley' in cold weather for short 5 mile trips? But once in a while we have a warm day during Winter. I probably would not want to get out and change the pulley back to the stock size.

without thermostat and air control vanes you have full cooling from the minute the engine starts... engines are slow to warm up when idleing and even worse when there is nothing to control the cooling air... the best thing for an engine is to start it up, waiting only long enough to buckle up and check mirror adjustment, then drive off... that's even more important without the thermostat and control vanes... when cold out, you may never actually reach operating temperatures if driving around town..

How about a Hat Gloves and thick socks :P

I guess because its "So Ca", dumb ass people think you don't need a thermostat and air control. I completely understand about the heating and cooling, even in Ca. I plan on correcting this in the future.

Eddie

Joey Tribiani wrote:

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Dear Eddie,

Without the thermostatically controlled cooling system your engine will NEVER 'warm-up' properly. Your cast iron barrels will take on an oval shape and your heads are liable to suffer compression leaks.

Altering the cooling system is one of the more popular of the bad, bad ideas that contribute to early failure of the VW engine, which is what after-market retailers WANT. It's a built-in guarantee that you'll need to replace your engine sooner.

-Bob Hoover

PS -- And yeah, it was damn cold last night :-)

Bob, Agreed. That was how the engine was when I bought the car. I plan on replacing the existing engine with a dual port 1600. I will make sure the new engine has all of the cooling system installed.

Eddie

Bob Hoover wrote:

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You might be able to get the flaps at Russ' recycling. Here is the link: