flushing transmission

Yes it's a good idea to replace the seal.

The input shaft movement is normal, it is supported by the needle bearing inside the big flywheel bolt, when the engine is installed. Without the engine, the input shaft wobbles around noticeably.

When replacing paper gaskets under the side covers, make sure you set the tightness correctly. It is adjusted by adding or removing paper gaskets. You use several gaskets per side. The correct tightness is found when the axle doesn't move freely up and down, but it has some resistance. It should still move in all the directions without force, and fall down under it's own weight if you lift it up. But you should feel it drag, like slow motion.

Replace the rubber axle boots too, use the good german made boots. The cheap ones last less than a year.

Jan

Oh yea, for flushing, use only transmission oil. Then fill it up again with transmission oil when it's in the car, up to the filler hole. (When oil starts dripping out of the filler hole, it has enough of oil in it). Use GL4 rated oil ONLY.

Jan

Thanks Jan. Yeah I remember the paper gasket business. Already got new boots, complete gasket set, rear seal, mounts, new heavy duty fork with new bushings and clips, throwout bearing, clutch, spring plate bushings and even hand break cables. Boots are german as most of the other parts. Last time I tried to replace those with brazilian they didn't even fit and tear up. I figured I don't like pulling engine too much so might as well address all those areas in one shot.

Thanks again, Anton